[shark]

11.1-2 Average 156.3 (0.2lbs up on last week)

M. Noon. Malham with Jerome. Worryingly sunny on drive up but fortunately overcast in Dales. On crag wind. Chilly. Mint! Only Mina, James, Holly Murray + partner, Andy Tappa and John Thornton there. Cons two or three times. Oak Go1 warmup on bottom section felt good Go 2 Climbed thru to executing throw but missed horn Go 2 & 3 fell at undercut by third bolt with foot slippages. Warm up walk to top of cove. Go 4 climbed really well (at last) got horn but not in best place Go 5 climbed well again (felt so good) and had a sudden drain of power as doing throw and although got horn perfectly didn’t grasp it Go 6 got to undercut by third but tired and bad middle finger protested in sidepull above so came off Go 7 tried undercut to top but when got horn elbow protested (has been feeling tweaky for a few weeks) so let go and sticked up to strip it. Good session. Felt great on last goes to be climbing well with minimal adjustments

T.

W. Tor 8.30 am start to beat the heat with Ben S. Whilst walking to base of Indecent I was startled by a loud “whoomp!” sound - assumed it was rock fall but it was a base jumper  He landed safely near the river. Bit of a shock. Dogged up AM No wind, 6 degrees and rock really cold. Had to keep warming my fingers up but felt mint. By time I got on it for redpoint a diffrent story. Holds on Push Up had condensed so much I couldn't do it despite attempts to dry them. Tried to lead from Revelations belay but fell off after clipping bolt on headwall. Holds just too greasy so sacked it off. In meantime there was an accident on start of Call of Nature with some poor soul decking out who had to be stretchered off and away in an ambulance. Weird day. Decided to run away early whilst still in one piece rather than try Bens which was gopping. 
PM Foundry Wave - first time for ages. Did the level 2's on teh steep bit. The middle ones took a bit of effort. Elbow protested a bit on a long crank on the yellow one but seemed to hold up ok

T.

F. PM Met James and Mina on catwalk. Just us there. Weather not as apocalyptic as forecast. Warm air temp but gusty and blowing in. Conditions OK but not mint. Cons to warm up. Several goes from ground but didn’t feel totally on it so I guess I still need two rest days rather than one. Also despite  elbow rehab work it still felt sore which was both a distraction and I think preventing me from pulling as hard as I needed to. Current Whites bagged out but learning from past mistakes had a new pair with me in reserve. Didn’t manage any good links on the top either. All very demoralising.

S. AM Physio. Louise fitted me in at short notice. Typically excruciating and have marks to prove it.

S.


Things not going well with this season's Oak campaign. My progress has been disappointing and my elbow niggle has got worse. Have arranged to go back to Malham on weds but if this wet warm weather continues then I might already have had my last session on it for this year. It was good to be climbing well on it in good conditions on Monday and I certainly enjoyed that feeling.

I thought I had prepped for it well having done more volume over the summer and come back to it stronger but it doesn't seem to have made much difference, Perhaps I'm burnt out Ill still keep showing up whilst it is dry and as long as my elbow doesn't get any worse.

[jamesturnbull97]

M. Malham with Mina. Back on Bat and Dogs, good session doing links from the kneebars. Had a couple of minor foot sequence changes at the start of the traverse making it smoother and getting through the start faster. Managed to do the top in 2 halves going from the kneebars to matching the bird dish on Rainshadow and from there to the top. Felt like a good break through on consistently linking the first bit.

T. Malham with Mina. Spent the session focusing on getting slick on the Bat route boulder. Happy with all the foot sequence now and swaped to going straight to the jug instead of using the intermediate tooth. Linked it fully from the big sidepull 3 times, twice from pinch and intermediate and a few times from the first undercuts. Feeling solid on it again now, all down to the key karate chop beta to get the top RH well.

W. Went to see some friends in Sheffield, ending up going to The Works. Tired from 2 big days at Malham so just did some of the easy circuit problems, Ironbru and Wasps? But surprised myself by doing 1-4-7 in my current weak endurance shape.

T. Rest!!

F. Malham with Mina and Simon. Had one proper go from the ground, felt close to getting though BR boulder just fumbled top LH, then back to trying headwall links. Got a new highpoint from the knee bars, did the flick out of the bird dish but fell coming into RH shoulder.

S.

S. Malham with Mina. Warm up go went up to try some different beta at the end of the trav end I was falling on Fri, decided to lock up LH first to the sidepulls instead going in to the shoulder. New sequence worked way better on link and managed to get through to the big move on the headwall twice, close of the second go. Awesome to watch Mina get through that move and smash it out.

Another week of a lot of climbing and good scenes at the crag, massive progress on RBAD 2 weeks to try and get it done before we go to the RRG.

[shark]

New sequence worked way better on link and managed to get through to the big move on the headwall twice, close of the second go. Awesome to watch Mina get through that move and smash it out.

Worth braving the dodgy weather then! Good news on your breakthrough and Mina getting the tick

[nai]

M- Anston with TT and Dolly. Bit hampered by the leg, couldn't do moves that required keeping right foot on at extension or use right heels and I become more and more protective of it and stopped trying too hard.

T - System board, campussing, gymnastic stuff, core.
Probably overdid it after barely doing anything Monday, felt worked, felt good.

w rest

Th - More gymnastic play/practice, Half a Max hangs session then headed for a quicky at Burbage South. Poor choice, in shelter of the wind so a bit smeggy and the two problems I wanted to try, Violence and PMT, were both wet at the bottom.

F - Felt a bit dodgy, LI AeroCap and a bit of core

S rest/feel shite

S - bit better, started a fingerboard session but scores, and energy, were a bit low so sacked it half way through
Yet more gymnastic stuff, managed a Crane balance for over 20s and a handstand for about 2s.
10 mins core

[spidermonkey09]

M - resting broken skin! Went to see the Dawn Wall in the evening; brilliant.

T - Fingerboard and core session. Repeaters went well. Am sort of freestyling with the routine at the moment on an assortment of edges, half crimping, and steering clear of pockets as I find them a bit tweaky. Going to look at add some weight this week, so if anyone has any pointers feel free to provide. Core was savage but worthwhile. Going to try and keep doing it.

W - Rest.

T - Went to the cliff for a brief session after work. Tried Exorcist with the intention of doing the Dolping Belly Slap -> DWR link first and then trying the second half. Surprised myself by getting through to the final move (also the hardest move) just before it rained. Would like to think the link won't take ages, but the full tick might be another matter. No intention of finishing up the short version as I can't touch DWR Left Hand, so will have to be the long version! Great moves moving onto the lip from DBS.

F - rest, then got pissed in the evening.

S - hungover, wet and humid. Glad I didn't try to go climbing.

S - Malham. Good conditions on the dry holds, which was a surprising amount after the Friday/Saturday deluge. Worked the crux of Predator on a toprope. Beta from Al handy for the move up to the dogtooth and got a much better sequence together for the traverse after that. Annoyingly couldn't try the sequence around 'the crisp' as holds were wet. Probably at the point of trying it from the ground just to get fitter on the rest, even though I have no chance of doing it this season unless we have a miraculous dry spell! Great watching Mina shrieking  her way up Bats and Dogs; good effort!

Same again this week I think. Sore knuckle getting sore again which is a slight concern but don't want to stop climbing and it seems manageable. No guarantee that rest would fix it anyway based on last physio session.

[Will Hunt]

I'm really enjoying these Malham hold names that we're being treated to here. The Horn, The Dogtooth, The Bird Dish, The Crisp. I'd love to see an El-Cap style topo for the Catwalk with these monikers taking the place of tired old things like Camp 4, Dolt Tower, Wino Ledge, Glowering Spot etc.

[tomtom]

How about joining in by posting up what you’ve done this past week Will?

[Will Hunt]

I genuinely considered it for, I think, 1 minute this morning. I have a long list of boulder problems I would like to do/try this winter. However, my diary would basically look the same every week. One evening at the Depot, hopefully one day on the crag at the weekend. This would only highlight the futitility of my "training" - far too little of it to actually see any improvements, more just trying to mark time until such a time as I can try and improve.

[jamesturnbull97]

I'm really enjoying these Malham hold names that we're being treated to here. The Horn, The Dogtooth, The Bird Dish, The Crisp. I'd love to see an El-Cap style topo for the Catwalk with these monikers taking the place of tired old things like Camp 4, Dolt Tower, Wino Ledge, Glowering Spot etc.

You may get introduced to some more on future redpoints Will, if your lucky we can talk about 'the loaf'

[spidermonkey09]

I'm really enjoying these Malham hold names that we're being treated to here. The Horn, The Dogtooth, The Bird Dish, The Crisp. I'd love to see an El-Cap style topo for the Catwalk with these monikers taking the place of tired old things like Camp 4, Dolt Tower, Wino Ledge, Glowering Spot etc.

See also: The crescent (raindogs), the tooth (seventh aardvark), and 'the sheffield block' (raindogs). Tbf not sure the latter is in common usage!

If moves are allowed their own nomenclature you could also include the windmill (raindogs) and 'the matrix' (zoolook). Perhaps most of these are just me though...

[teestub]

I genuinely considered it for, I think, 1 minute this morning. I have a long list of boulder problems I would like to do/try this winter. However, my diary would basically look the same every week. One evening at the Depot, hopefully one day on the crag at the weekend. This would only highlight the futitility of my "training" - far too little of it to actually see any improvements, more just trying to mark time until such a time as I can try and improve.

I thought you had some home training set up Will, does your family schedule not allow for some quick snatched half hours or are you not siked?

[jamesturnbull97]

See also: The crescent (raindogs), the tooth (seventh aardvark), and 'the sheffield block' (raindogs). Tbf not sure the latter is in common usage!

Think my favourites are 'the crisp' (predator) or 'the Spock hold' (GBH)

[cheque]

my diary would basically look the same every week. One evening at the Depot, hopefully one day on the crag at the weekend. This would only highlight the futitility of my "training"

That's why I stopped posting in this thread- my posts were basically just a diary of someone who was doing a bit of climbing and was more focused on other stuff than improving so it felt like there was no point sharing it.

the tooth (seventh aardvark)

 

Rehab Diaries Week Eight

M- Rest. Tired from weekend. As I climbed on the Sunday rather than the Saturday at the weekend I didn't have an interim day to recover but it didn't feel quite as bad as I expected.

T- Gym. 30 minutes of intervals on bike, each a level harder than last week. I was on a recumbent bike this time as all the normal ones were taken (students back I guess)- not sure if this is harder or easier.

W- Rest. Not as sore as expected.

T- Rest.

F- Foundry autobelays. More progress- did my first indoor 6a+ since the accident and 8 complete pitches in total, plus 6 non-complete attempts. This is a huge improvement in session fitness. Also practiced dropping from the top without grabbing the strap. I've noticed that I don't often go for moves I think I won't do (I just drop off, often after pointlessly rechecking that I'm still attached) so my aim for the next session is to go for it no matter what and to trust that my check on the ground was sufficient.

S- Rest. Quite battered from previous day.

S- Rest. Drove my other half to a trail run which, unusually, started at midday. Stayed in the car the whole time due to foul weather. Just as I was putting my waterproofs on to go out and wait at the finish, she appears at the car window, coated in mud and holding the first place woman trophy!   

Weekend weather, other commitments and no Match of the Day & MotD 2 to keep me up late meant that I rested more than usual this weekend- not ideal but I feel really good this morning, walking around very comfortably and feels like using the stairs at work is another bit closer to normal too. Hopefully more climbing this coming week.   

[Will Hunt]

I genuinely considered it for, I think, 1 minute this morning. I have a long list of boulder problems I would like to do/try this winter. However, my diary would basically look the same every week. One evening at the Depot, hopefully one day on the crag at the weekend. This would only highlight the futitility of my "training" - far too little of it to actually see any improvements, more just trying to mark time until such a time as I can try and improve.

I thought you had some home training set up Will, does your family schedule not allow for some quick snatched half hours or are you not siked?

Fuck it. I'll join in. I haven't been that psyched to try anything of 7B+ or above on the boulders for a while now, but the desire has returned for this winter. There were a few of us having a weekly board session but that was instead of rather than supplementary to the Depot sesh. I don't really want to drop the Depot sesh as it is definitely more fun than the board. I might try to get two sessions in mid-week, but I have to try and balance that against what time I have to work on my guidebook project, for which there is loads of work to do.

Tue: Guidebook
Weds: Guidebook
Thurs: Guidebook
Fri: Depot sesh. Didn't eat properly before going out so felt hungry and low on blood sugar to start. Warmed up and did some purples. Looked around for a yellow that wasn't connies dependent (it was warm). Worked out the start and did it after a few goes. Got flapjack and felt better straight away. Mooched around and chatted to people.
Sat: Guidebook meeting
Sun: Wanted to go to Earl Crag but it was Earl Crag Connies(TM).

That's probably the most guidebook stuff I've managed in a week for an age, so normal service should be resumed this week...

[Coops_13]

M: No tag rugby to let gammy knee heal

T: Arch. Good session. Warm-up then small amount of campus board. Onto one-arm max hangs, 7 sec hang with 2.5 min rest. 8 sets: -20kg, -16kg, -14kg, -14kg, -14kg, -14kg, -16kg, -16kg. A couple of sets of Ts, Ys and Is on the rings. Front lever holds, lock-off attempts.

W:

T: Arch. Fun session as fingers were feeling a bit tweaky. Climbed a load of problems including getting close to finishing off a hard white. Moonboard re-doing some of the problems I set and having a mini-comp with a mate setting a problem each

F:

S: My Birthday! Arch. OK session on boulders, repeated lots and got close on a green (6-8 ). Some board climbing and finished off with weighted pull-ups, worked up to a single rep of +44kg before calling it. 

S: 

[spidermonkey09]

Tue: Guidebook
Weds: Guidebook
Thurs: Guidebook
Sat: Guidebook meeting

I presume this is a Yorks guide Will?

[Will Hunt]

There will be some Yorkshire stuff in it, yes.

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - monday session: BM 10"x6 (actually 5). Quite satisfied especially about mid2, index and ring monos and back2. Weights, tricep planks, clean and press, lock offs.
Tue - rest. Forearms exploding.
Wed - power clean 70% (56 kg) 5x6 very well. Pull ups 6x5. Lock offs 10/10 x6. Tricep planks, weights.
Thu - rest.
Fri - weights, lock offs, tricep planks 5x5; various loaded carries.
Sat - rest.
Sun - static/dynamic pull ups 5x5. Full thruster 5x5. Clean and press 5x5. Dumbbell complex, abs. Hard.

[Murph]

Many happy returns Ross

I stopped posting because most of my climbing was at the crag that we don’t talk about anymore and i wasn’t really progressing anyway. Like cheque says if it’s just a diary of going climbing it’s not really worth sharing. But I’ve got into a bit of a hole that I want to get out of so I’ll start posting here again.

M-kettlebells, 24kgs. Max hangs up to +32kgs on small holds
T-10k run
W-works pinkles and max hangs up to +40kgs on small holds but only for 8s
T-9k run, works half arsed session. Couldn’t do the easyproblems on the mini mother. Maybe board the day after max hangs not a good idea
F-kettlebells, introducing the 32kg bell to the routine for 1/5 swing sets.
S-9k run, max hangs up to +32kgs on smallholds. Was utterly wasted though and failed the last set at this weight. Kettlebells 2/5 with 32kg
S-kettlebells 2/5 w/32kgs.

Max hangs are going nowhere. Not sure if I should carry on with them really. The aim had been to get finger strength back to standard and go crush. But for reasons I can’t work out I’m not getting back to standard at all and am finding the hangs very difficult. I wish I knew why...or rather I wish I knew what bit of all the randomness worked before.

Goals
Do my whole kettlebell routine with 32kgs at bodyweight of <64kgs. That’s 100 swings and 10 Turkish Get Ups in 16 minutes.

Get running fitness back and a reasonable time at Percy Pud.

Climb something off my wishlist this year. Top grit wishes are Piss (still!!!) Kidneystone and Soft on the G. But also Nicotine Stain, Conan and NTBTA. Anything on there would be grand.

Weight
67.5

[T_B]

Climb something off my wishlist this year. Top grit wishes are Piss (still!!!) Kidneystone and Soft on the G. But also Nicotine Stain, Conan and NTBTA. Anything on there would be grand.

Sack off the Kettlebells then and get yourself on the Foundry Wave. There's a really good set of 6c - 7b fairly basic campussy problems on there at the mo that should get your guns blazing.

[nai]

Kidneystone and SOTG are about core and compression more than anything, certainly for the shorter climber anyway.

I stopped posting because most of my climbing was at the crag that we don’t talk about anymore and i wasn’t really progressing anyway. Like cheque says if it’s just a diary of going climbing it’s not really worth sharing.

Post whatever you want, unless everyone states goals it's got little context anyway.  Not going so well at Griffs then? (images of the rest of PC recoiling at the word Griffs akin to the knights who say Ni)

Max hangs are going nowhere. Not sure if I should carry on with them really. The aim had been to get finger strength back to standard and go crush. But for reasons I can’t work out I’m not getting back to standard at all and am finding the hangs very difficult. I wish I knew why...or rather I wish I knew what bit of all the randomness worked before.

After years of being stale I've recently made gains by mixing up max hangs with short repeaters, which has aslo worked in the past. Basically day 1 I've been doing 10s hangs, day2 5 rep repeaters then take a couple of days before repeating. Also doing a lot more conditioning work, I'm not convinced it's always my fingers that are the weak link so trying to improve shoulder and general overall conditioning .

[shark]

I stopped posting because ....i wasn’t really progressing anyway.

The reason I started Fit Club then Power Club was primarily as a prompt to consistently keep at the training and the trying which means posting in the good times and the bad   

[T_B]

Kidneystone and SOTG are about core and compression more than anything, certainly for the shorter climber anyway.

They're about your ability to climb I would say. Doing exercises far removed from actual climbing (i.e. Kettle Bells) is not a way to dig yourself out of a performance hole IMO.

[tomtom]

I stopped posting because ....i wasn’t really progressing anyway.

The reason I started Fit Club then Power Club was primarily as a prompt to consistently keep at the training and the trying which means posting in the good times and the bad

Indeed - like Murph (I think) I was a bit put off posting last week by some negative posts..

[Stu Littlefair]

I don't normally post on here, but I'm curious.

Murph - what are "smallholds"? That's a lot of kettlebell swings and fingerboarding, and not much climbing. If you are +40kg on the beast maker 2000 small crimps, it's not finger strength stopping you from climbing your gardoms projects. Perhaps you just need more time on the projects?

To get out of your strength rut, try replacing the max hangs with one set of anderson hangs a week for a little while. Buy a lamp and go out in the evening and try your projects, or hit the wave on grim evenings...