[nai]

I was going to add something like that but knowhere near as well, another great analogy.

I was also wondering whether John Kettle's book might be a place to start? Anyone who's read it care to share whether it's helping them?  tomtom?

i'd guess Tim Cunnington, peakprofitness would be the Sheffield movement guy, you can get a free intro session with him before commiting to giving him your cash and he'll even confirm whether you have weak shoulders or not.

Pinches is quite stiff though, isn’t it?. Which ones can you do Nai?

Never tried any other than the easy ones on big holds when warming up. If I know I'm going to the Tor I'll warm up at home first, only ever warm up there if there's a change of plan

[abarro81]

I think this movement dyslexia is why I tend to go out and repeat the same things or only climb things I’ve seen videos of. Learning new moves is disproportionately difficult and when I go to a new problem I have to learn it all again.

There's only one way around this that I know of, and it's to do a load of climbing, on new problems, on as many styles as possible, relentlessly and consistently. New problems, new crags, new rock types, new indoor walls, different setters at the same wall etc...

With that in mind any "training hierarchy" for you should surely be
1. Get out if at all possible
2. If you can't, then get to a wall (and climb, not hang)
3. If you can't (e.g. have 45min only) then train at home

As everyone's said, if you need to hang because it's all you've got time for at home then try mixing up the routine.

[Will Hunt]

the weekly power club soap (Beastenders?..)

 

Don't take all this the wrong way, Murph. Nobody's slagging you here, it's just that the "mistakes" you're making are so obvious that even know-nothings like myself can weigh in. Secretly, we're all incredibly jealous as well. If someone told me that the biggest difference I could make to my climbing was to get out on the grit as much as possible and tick my way through some easy classics I would weep tears of joy.

It sounds like the big challenge for you will be to find the time to get out and actually get the climbing in. I gather you have at least one kid? Is there any way you can work out a routine with your partner so that you have a childcare-free evening or day at the weekend? Now is not really the time for it, but if you can get out on the grit on a summer's evening you can climb till it gets dark and you can still get a good session in even if you leave the house once the sprog's in bed.

Now. What you were saying about being scared of heights and getting spooked on a HS. Don't let anybody tell you that these things are not learned skills. Whatever height you're comfortable at above pads now, it can be pushed higher, but the only way to do it is to have a go, take the falls, and learn how to fall/jump off well. Obviously if you don't want to do this then fine, but it sounds like you are inspired by climbing's more aesthetic challenges and for some of these you are going to have to venture beyond your current comfort zone. The same goes for technique and figuring out sequences - it's all learnable if you try. Don't use "movement dyslexia" (regardless of whether this is a real thing that you may or may not have) as an excuse to not get better.

[jwi]

1. Get out if at all possible
2. If you can't, then get to a wall (and climb, not hang)
3. If you can't (e.g. have 45min only) then train at home

I think I'll print this on cards to have ready as hand outs.

[lurcher]

Don't take all this the wrong way, Murph. Nobody's slagging you here, it's just that the "mistakes" you're making are so obvious that even know-nothings like myself can weigh in. Secretly, we're all incredibly jealous as well. If someone told me that the biggest difference I could make to my climbing was to get out on the grit as much as possible and tick my way through some easy classics I would weep tears of joy.
.

Absolutely, there's some really good advice here I think as well as the banter..  The height/trad stuff is mainly just familiarity, as you're comfortable falling off at a reasonable height on steep bouldering.

I think a lot of folk (me included) would weep tears of joy if they could hang ++50% bodyweight off the BM crimps...

[cheque]

Apologies to PCers who have no interest in this

What are you talking about Murph? This is gold.

[Murph]

Thanks for all the strong advice dudes. Appreciate the effort. None of it taken The wrong way. To be honest it’s a bit humbling that people would be so willing to offer advice.

Thanks everyone telling me to actually go out climbing. Of course. Should stop making excuses about short passes and stuff. 

Those pinkles-and-fingerboard routines need to go in the bin.

Huw - tying your dog to a kb is a great idea! Would love to get out with you for grit volume.

Alex - your three point summary for success is brilliant. Thank you.

Nai - you’ve complicated the simplicity of that plan a bit there though. The Joshua article with the person types warns against strong climber (uncomfortable to think of myself like that) as having the yoda problem. Crap climbing with strength is not learning good climbing.

Coaching or at the least taking the effort to learn seems pretty essential.

I think a lot of folk (me included) would weep tears of joy if they could hang ++50% bodyweight off the BM crimps...

Dude, if I can offer some advice back, just get on the fingerboard! 

[tomtom]

What Barrows said.

Get out and try and do lots of different problems on different rocks/walls. I don’t think its movement dyslexia - more needing to expand the movement vocabulary

[Murph]

Bringing things back on topic....

Griffs doesn't stay dry over winter does it?

I don't know if it normally does but the FA of King of Lambs was Dec 21st 2014 apparently....

[nai]

Nai - you’ve complicated the simplicity of that plan a bit there though. The Joshua article with the person types warns against strong climber (uncomfortable to think of myself like that) as having the yoda problem. Crap climbing with strength is not learning good climbing.

Just ignore me, listen to Alex.

[teestub]

Nai - you’ve complicated the simplicity of that plan a bit there though. The Joshua article with the person types warns against strong climber (uncomfortable to think of myself like that) as having the yoda problem. Crap climbing with strength is not learning good climbing.

I think the key here is it's the variety that's important. The 100kg beastmaker hangs and the 32kg kettlebell snatches are going to make zero difference on crescent arete (for example). Time on rock will allow you to learn to effectively use the strength you have, you may be able to 'strong' your way through occasional moves, but that's totally fine set against a background of climbing volume where you're learning a lot of the time.

[Nutty]

Max hangs are going nowhere. Not sure if I should carry on with them really. The aim had been to get finger strength back to standard and go crush. But for reasons I can’t work out I’m not getting back to standard at all and am finding the hangs very difficult. I wish I knew why...or rather I wish I knew what bit of all the randomness worked before.

Could be conditions related (cooler and less humid earlier in the year? Could geek-out and get a hygrometer and thermometer to track conditions). Any change in the amount (and quality) of rest / sleep between sessions? May indicate that you need to change up your fingerboard sessions for a bit to get a different stimulus. It sounds like the 3 max hangs sessions are all the same - is there any variety in grip?

[Fiend]

I genuinely promised myself that I wouldn't ever do anything as stupid as trad climb again.

I haven't followed most of this discussion as I don't use kettlebells and don't know (nor want to know) what "Griffs" is, but this is a great quote and cracked me up

[slab_happy]

Thanks everyone telling me to actually go out climbing. Of course. Should stop making excuses about short passes and stuff. 

Hey, any interest in sharing mat-hauling and spotting duties on Conan, Nicotine Stain and maybe NTBTA?

I can also offer pathetically easy trad if you decide to break your promise, and will not judge you for your love of kettlebells.

[Murph]

Glad it brought a smile Fiend. I have given up climbing many times since you took me to ladybower quarry that time.

Slab - happy to. There must be others on here who’d be up for NTBTA? I’d want a lot of pads! I like to do my climbing unsociable early or late tho...pm me?

[slab_happy]

PM-ed you. Fervent agreement on the number of mats I'd want on NTBTA, in the somehat unlikely event of my ever getting past the start ...

[tomtom]

Hard bit of ntbta is first couple of moves. Rest is on big holds etc...

[shark]

Hard bit of ntbta is first couple of moves. Rest is on big holds etc...

Bit of a stretch at the top. You probably didn’t notice...

[tomtom]

Hard bit of ntbta is first couple of moves. Rest is on big holds etc...

Bit of a stretch at the top. You probably didn’t notice...

Sorry - can’t hear you from up here! 😃

[nai]

Hard bit of ntbta is first couple of moves. Rest is on big holds etc...

Bit of a stretch at the top. You probably didn’t notice...top out though

 

[slab_happy]

Hard bit of ntbta is first couple of moves. Rest is on big holds etc...

So I've heard, but my friends will tell you that I have an amazing ability to fall off stuff it shouldn't be possible to fall off ...

[Fiend]

Glad it brought a smile Fiend. I have given up climbing many times since you took me to ladybower quarry that time.

Dafuck?? Did that actually happen? I remember going for a look with someone and possibly climbing a VS or maybe an E1 over on the right? Was that you?

If so, sorry for putting you off trad for life

[Murph]

Haha yep that was me about 15 years ago . We went to rivelin quarry, higgar and ladybower in the damp. Then to the foundry for an actual climb. The day long passes when passes weren’t even a thing. Back then with all the time in the world VS was my limit. Still is

NTBTA. The top out is stiff for VS apparently. I’ll put a thread up here when it looks like it’s on and try to get all the pads in one place.

[Fiend]

LOL. Well I never. I did go back to Rivelin Quarries and do a few great routes there. Still never did Paddington. Maybe this winter....

[tommytwotone]

Glad it brought a smile Fiend. I have given up climbing many times since you took me to ladybower quarry that time.

Slab - happy to. There must be others on here who’d be up for NTBTA? I’d want a lot of pads! I like to do my climbing unsociable early or late tho...pm me?

RE: NTBTA. Beta from about 50 secs.


As for pads...just get one and shift it along. That's what we did back in't day!