Quote from: mark20 on October 12, 2018, 09:18:03 amlogpile?No, just a single turd I believe.
Quote from: shark on October 11, 2018, 09:07:32 pmThanks DaveI really hope you finally get it as well. However, if so, its a quandary what should happen next, especially in terms of publicity. The Oak effort is one of life's reassuring certainties in a mad changing world.
Quote from: Offwidth on October 14, 2018, 11:46:58 amQuote from: shark on October 11, 2018, 09:07:32 pmThanks DaveI really hope you finally get it as well. However, if so, its a quandary what should happen next, especially in terms of publicity. The Oak effort is one of life's reassuring certainties in a mad changing world.Indeed. The one thing that keeps me from despair, as sea levels rise, extreme weather becomes the new normal, and the idiots take over the reins of power, is thank God Simon is still trying the Oak.
Fantastic advancements over on ukc Firstly Anna, then Wills mate, followed by Will.Turd remains unknown.Slightly weird that they keep offering each other belays after all this are partners that sparse in the Lakes????
Quote from: ashtond6 on November 04, 2018, 09:52:29 pmFantastic advancements over on ukc Firstly Anna, then Wills mate, followed by Will.Turd remains unknown.Slightly weird that they keep offering each other belays after all this are partners that sparse in the Lakes????Can you provide a link. I've looked but couldn't find before the titles of the threads I did find got me too wound up.
Anna Taylor - on 22:45 SatIn reply to DannyC:Obviously everyone here has different views on the FA's of routes. But in the case of the Brit Rock film I was part of, a large part of the story was not included in the film for reasons I will try to explain here. I don't want to cause any huge fights on UKC, and for this reason until now i've held back writing down exactly what happened in the hopes it would all be forgotten about and everyone involved could move on. However there's been a lot of speculation, and in the hopes of clearing the air i've written down everything that went on regarding this route. I found the route, cleaned it up and began working it. During this process I did leave a rope hanging down the route. This was because accessing the top of the butress was incredibly difficult and took me an hour of crawling through thorn bushes to get the rope there in the first place, so I didn't particularly want to do that twice every time I went to the crag. This may still have been a mistake, and perhaps I should have just removed the rope every time, but given how tiny and unpopular this crag is I really didn't think it would be an issue. A couple of weeks after I started working the route I realised someone had been on it as it was suddenly covered in tick marks that weren't my own, and seemed to be starting the route a different way from the other side of the arete. I asked Will Birkett (who claimed the FA) if it was him as I knew he lived close by and he told me it wasn't. My climbing partner Neil asked a couple of people he knew and everyone denied it so we had no idea. All I wanted was to be able to have a sensible conversation with whoever it was as they'd been using (and trashing) my ropes but no one seemed to know. At that point I would have been totally up for working the route with whoever this mysterious person was and if they were much closer to the lead than me, would have happily stepped back and let them have it. The route is about 15 mins drive from my house so i'd often nip down in the evening to work the crux moves on a shunt. I never actually saw anyone there but every time i'd go something would have been left. One evening I jugged up the rope to find my main anchor trashed, another time someone had s**t right at the bottom of the route, and another time a bit of my static rope at been torn off the anchor, and left attached to the rocks at the bottom of the route with a little bmc "check your knot!" sign stuck to it. I had no idea why this person/people were doing this, but they clearly knew I was also working the line and didn't want to be friendly. One evening Neil and I both saw a silver van similar to the one Will drives slow down and deliberately scrape along the side of mine that was parked in a layby under the crag. Will has since said that it wasn't him and it was probably a farmer angry with me for parking there, however the local farmer had driven past me in his vehicle plenty of times and had had no issue with me parking there, and the farmers of the area tend to drive landrovers and jeeps, not silver panal vans. However since we couldn't see who was driving from the road we never took further action despite what we both suspect. One day we found a huge platform had been dug out of the ground on the slope beneath the route. This platform changed the route completely, into something that could be highballed rather than placing gear. Again I don't have an issue with people wanting to climb the route this way, I was certainly going to put pads under the route myself, but this platform was an absolute mess and such deliberate trashing of the ground under the route really isn't on, particularly in somewhere like the Lakes. There was also spilt chalk and cigarette ends left up there more than once. A few days later it airs on social media that Will Birkett had made the first ascent. Will had then emailed UKC asking for it to be published in an article but they turned him down, his girlfriend (using a fake surname) had then emailed them again asking more forcfully for it to be published but was again turned down. I did slightly worry when Brit Rock came out that people would think Neil and I were over-reacting about this, it would be totally understandable to see it like that. All that was shown in the film was that I was working a route and someone jumped in at the last moment and did it first. Had that been the case, I would still probably have been a bit annoyed but that would have been the end of it, it could have been argued that the better climber won. The reason I was really annoyed was the behaviour shown by Will and his mates during this period as there really wasn't any need for it. We didn't include any of the more unpleasant details in the film, nor did we ever name Will Birkett for both his sake and the sake of the audience. It would just have been uncomfortable for people to watch if so. The only reason i'm now naming Will is because his ascent has been aired on both UKC (in the Lakeland Round up) and his own social media, so he clearly doesn't mind. And the reason i've written this down is because I do feel like people deserve to know the full story seeing as we didn't tell it in the film and there's been a fair bit of speculation flying around. I hope this clears some of it up.
J_Spooner - on 11:16 SunIn reply to Anna Taylor:Thought I'd address some of the points you've made as someone who knows Will and the situation surrounding the route.Theres doubt in my mind that you were the first person to find this route. It had a peg in which was removed (Rightly so in my opinion. Pegs are good for the first ascentionist but quickly become unreliable) and Stuart Wood had been up to this buttress in 2006 and done a new E6 to the left called Fractious Applause. The walk to the top of the crag is unpleasant but takes no more than 10 minutes. Your rope was not trashed, you had left it over a sharp edge and worn it to the core. My friend then replaced that piece of rope for you and as a joke put the check your knot sign below. No idea why you think any of us would shit below the route. That's disgusting and just plain weird. I've known Will for quite a few years and he's a genuinely kind hearted person who naturally avoids confrontation. He wouldn't ever think of damaging another persons property. The only scratches on his van are on the passenger wing from when he scraped into our neighbours wall parking his van! Rivalries on routes is historically very common. Indian Face, Masters edge, Strawberries and many many more. Quite funny that Neil (In your film) seems to only be able to recall 10 examples where this has happened in the past??On Friday I saw your film and have no doubt you are a talented climber and nice person. I thought the film did you a disservice by focussing on the route drama and not more on your climbing ability. It would've been great to see you climbing more classic routes in the Lakes. If you ever need a belay or spot then the offer is genuinely always there.
Willly B - on 12:09 SunIn reply to Anna Taylor:Hi Anna, watched your film recently , thought it was good. No problem with been named in this. although I think some off the points your making may be incorrect.I have also been to the top of the route ,it defiantly is a pain in the arse to get to, but the reason myself and others found out about this is because you could see the rope hanging down from the road.as far cleaning goes, its never going to be pristine there due to its location. but I wouldn't have said it was clean when I looked at it, having spent a lot of time brushing it myself. after you sent me that message I kept off the route for a good 4 or 5 weeks. the reason I did clam the first accent was this.Neil gresham (your climbing partner) started sending some (in my opinion) out of order messages to Lakeland climbers , people he dident even know and had never met, basicly threatening to stay off the route. there are some he sent to a Carlisle based friend that when I read , changed my mind about climbing it.I think we can all agree lack of communication has been a large factor in this. Im sorry to hear that your rope has been trashed, I have a friend who said he replaced the rope there , and that it has been stolen. not sure who by ?I dont know what to say to about the poo, just abit grim innit, not sure where it came from but I never had any experiences like that there. as for this platform that sprung up out of the ground as if by magic. when I was originaly going to climb it ( before you messaged me ) I built a small level, to place a few pads , this could have been removed, when I went back some bastards had destroyed the bottom. to be honest I assumed it was you guys, all the bracken had been cleared, I assumed for filming. and like you say a massive platform had been built and dug into the banking with shovels unfortunately. according to locals around the same time someone was up there attempting the route and been filmed ? Im confused as to what the story is with the van, because Iv been told by people who received messages about it, the story started out as been a sliver car , that drove past then reversed back into a van ? Now it seems to be a sliver pannle van exactly like mine scraping down the side of your's ? anyhow my van dose not have any marks that would resemble either version. Id never do this , defiantly not because of a climb. your more than welcome to have a look. Id advise going to the police about this matter as it sounds like a sirius offence . I never asked ukc to advertise it in any way. I put a post up for friends on social media . my girlfriend did, under her own name. which for personal reasons is not the same second name as on FB.Id also contest the jumping on at the last second comment, the rope was hanging down that route for over 2 months ..... and there seems to been a lot of keen climbers looking at it in that time. Im surprised you dident see them there. hope this clears some stuff up . if you ever want a climbing partner give us a buzz, I'm normally keen. cheers will.
Gresh - various timesIn reply to unknown protagonists:
No comment on the situation from me but the grammar pedants on here will need to lie down this morning after reading it.
Yes, thanks to all, this is great. I hadn't read it before as I thought it was some tedium about a zipwire or something!
Quote from: grimer on November 05, 2018, 12:31:05 pmYes, thanks to all, this is great. I hadn't read it before as I thought it was some tedium about a zipwire or something!A Zipwire you say! Thatís fucking scandalous. Iím going to write to the National Park Authority and John Prescott about it. Can you do a Jam Crack special - complete with audio reconstruction of the events. I think the sound effects surrounding the poo discovery could provide significant creative scope
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