[Big Frank]

For those of you that have seen the latest OTE you'd of seen the article (with Pantonesk nouvo goth title font) on Derbyshire Highballs. Frankly most of which are not highballs IMHO but are more routes being soloed.

Well on the next months page it tells us we're getting the Yorkshire High ball article. No doubt it's already written and contains a list of classics but also has a lot of routes that have been soloed for the article.

So lets see how the UKB boulders list looks compared with the media list from OTE. So lets have a list of classic high balls across the grades.

[hongkongstuey]

the first one that came to mind is Rons Slab (is that the name?) at Caley

[Big Frank]

On the Ron theme, how about Rons Arete (left of JDS) at Earl. Always liked the look of it but never ventured onto it, looks scary at the top!

[jonP]

This is just a wild, crazy guess, but do you think Horror Arete might feature in the article?

Caley - True Pebble Wall, Terry & perhaps even Psycho at Caley
Thruscross - the John Dunne arete thing (can't remember the name)
Brandrith - the two aretes on the west buttress
Almscliff - Syrett's Wall is bound to get a mention
Crookrise - the big slab problems on the Everest boulder
Earl - the darkness thing above Erasor Slab, or even Erasor Slab
Slipstones - I guess some of the shorter routes could be considered highball boulder problems
Hellifield - the big aretes on the edge
Guisecliff - more big aretes above the road at the west end
Sypeland - there are some seriously big boulders here

That'll do for now.  Needless to say I've done hardly any of them, and have no desire to do more.

[hongkongstuey]

Gypsy at Almscliff

[hongkongstuey]

Horror Arete - not really that highball but will probably creep in due to its classic status

[hongkongstuey]

Slipstones - I guess some of the shorter routes could be considered highball boulder problems

Pauls Arete being the obvious choice for a magazine article

[Big Frank]

This is just a wild, crazy guess, but do you think Horror Arete might feature in the article?

Caley - True Pebble Wall, Terry & perhaps even Psycho at Caley
Thruscross - the John Dunne arete thing (can't remember the name)
Brandrith - the two aretes on the west buttress
Almscliff - Syrett's Wall is bound to get a mention
Crookrise - the big slab problems on the Everest boulder
Earl - the darkness thing above Erasor Slab, or even Erasor Slab
Slipstones - I guess some of the shorter routes could be considered highball boulder problems
Hellifield - the big aretes on the edge
Guisecliff - more big aretes above the road at the west end
Sypeland - there are some seriously big boulders here




That'll do for now.  Needless to say I've done hardly any of them, and have no desire to do more.

I suspect from Caley we will get Marrowbone jelly and Rabbit Paw wall, both routes and not problems.
From Slipstones we'll get a couple of HVS's and Cypher (high but probably not highball)

Brandrith, Thruscross, Hellifield, Guy's Cliffe and Sypeland wont even be on the agenda.

[jonP]

Cocoa Team Special at Rylstone.  Or maybe Poetry in Motion.

[Big Frank]

Pottytime at Brimham.

Now that looks high and scary and bloody dangerous at V2!

[Big Frank]

Cowboy Daze.

[hongkongstuey]

does Syretts Roof qualify as highball?

[squeek]

In my opinion a boulder problem is something that I'd have a go at myself with one pad and be fine dropping off any point including the top.  A highball is something that I'd want a few pads for and a spotter or two, you'd probably be ok having a controlled fall off or near the top onto a few mats.  If you're talking about definately breaking limbs and visits to hospital if you fall then I'd say it was a route.  Kind of a personal thing though, I'm not a bold climber at all.

I suspect there's some great highballs/micro routes at the newly opened Hugencroft, about 25 foot high.  

Psycho might get in the list, but it's about as high as the Obscene Cleft at Bridestones and that wouldn't get in because people don't solo it.

[jonP]

Acme Wall at Brimham.

Or this little frightener:

[Sloper]

I don't think it's really worth voting but contenders would be

Psycho,
Horror Arete
That rockover into an 'inverted scoop' at Brimham alegedly E2 6a
Syrett's roof,
Ripper,
That easy but BIG slab at Earl
Fascinationby (slipstones) bloody good that one!

[dave]

a highball is what you make it. yeah some "routes" can be done as highballs, but whatever, its still all climbing and still all good. i don't see much point in defining terms, or excluding things.

[Big Frank]

Lacking In smack feels high

[Big Frank]

a highball is what you make it. yeah some "routes" can be done as highballs, but whatever, its still all climbing and still all good. i don't see much point in defining terms, or excluding things.

I agree with you when it's a bunch of fellas out bouldering, but when it comes to mags publishing articles on High ball boulder problems, half of which are really routes that are being soloed then I'm inclined to disagree.

[hongkongstuey]

but when it comes to mags publishing articles on High ball boulder problems, half of which are really routes that are being soloed then I'm inclined to disagree.

what ones in Derbyshire did they include then?? (not seen OTE yet) have to say i knida agreed with most of the Staffs selection..........

[dave]

a highball is what you make it. yeah some "routes" can be done as highballs, but whatever, its still all climbing and still all good. i don't see much point in defining terms, or excluding things.

I agree with you when it's a bunch of fellas out bouldering, but when it comes to mags publishing articles on High ball boulder problems, half of which are really routes that are being soloed then I'm inclined to disagree.

but if they are being done, ground up, fallen off you would presume relativley safely then whats the damage done? if they'd trailed a rope behind them would it make any difference?

[moose]

agree with ripper - not so much the height, more the bloody great boulder underneath it.  There are some good highballs at Goldsborough too - fiddler, thin wall special etc

Mind you - my personal definition of highball is necessarily wimpy as I generally boulder on my own.  So although I know they are not true highballs I am pretty wary about anything with a fairly barn-doory layaway or a big rockover at the top (e.g. some of the aretes at Shipley Glen and Flying Arete at Almscliff

[Big Frank]

but when it comes to mags publishing articles on High ball boulder problems, half of which are really routes that are being soloed then I'm inclined to disagree.

what ones in Derbyshire did they include then?? (not seen OTE yet) have to say i knida agreed with most of the Staffs selection..........

Can not remember them all so you'll have to wait and see. But I suspect like the Stafordshire selection you will agree with most of them. But it's just those few that really are routes that I don't believe should be there.

[SA Chris]

the first one that came to mind is Rons Slab (is that the name?) at Caley

I think you mean Ron's Reach aka The Ripper Traverse at Caley Stu (Just to the right of Blockbluster?) Highball V4, or if you believe the routes guide E3 6a.

I think highballs are scary, but you unlikely (!) to hurt yourself if you fall off. Anything else is a micro route.

[Huffy]

Get yourselves over to the big bouldering areas in the states, they totally redefine what you consider to be highball. We'll have to talk Doyle out of bouldering all the grit E8s when he gets back!

[webbo]

most of those in the peak article are routes.if you fell/jumped from the top of oedipus,you'd be lucky to walk away even with a mat to land on.i get the feeling these articles are about saying look at me" i'm so brave i consider these routes mere boulder problems."