UKBouldering.com

Poll

What is a highball

A problem thats just high enough to be scary but is still reasonably safe
24 (72.7%)
A problem that is high, scary and can only be soled.
4 (12.1%)
Any single pitch route that is climbed in a bouldering ethic with a mat.
5 (15.2%)

Total Members Voted: 32

Voting closed: September 28, 2004, 07:34:01 am

Yorkshire Highballs? (Read 22218 times)

webbo

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#50 Yorkshire Highballs?
September 28, 2004, 03:17:03 pm
which one is spock's missing.

Nigel

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#51 Yorkshire Highballs?
September 28, 2004, 03:26:20 pm
SM is a Fawcett E5 6b taking the front face of Chequers Buttress from the lowest break, reached by Chequers Buttress or Crack, I can't remember. The direct into it through the roof and hitting the break where SM starts going upwards is Business Lunch, which gets E5 6c but is really a highball. Considering I don't own a Froggatt guide can I have a prize or something?

P.S. RIP Nigel from Eastenders :crying:  :byebye:

Bonjoy

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#52 Yorkshire Highballs?
September 28, 2004, 03:33:47 pm
Sole Power fits the bill reasonably well I guess apart from the fact it finishes half way up the butress. Still a case of going for whats got stars in the guidebook rather than finding out which highballs are actually rated by people who do highballs.

Sloper

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#53 Yorkshire Highballs?
September 28, 2004, 03:42:32 pm
Ah i was unsure which it was  :? but then again my only peak guide is 'on peak rock' that was a birthday present a while back, and i've lost that too.

As for jumping off FH come down and finish it off or shut the fk up. :roll:

webbo

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#54 Yorkshire Highballs?
September 28, 2004, 03:51:04 pm
sloper. were you and big frank an item once upon a time :?: you row more than me and the missus. :wink:

Big Frank

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#55 Yorkshire Highballs?
September 28, 2004, 04:00:08 pm
Quote from: "Sloper"
Ah i was unsure which it was  :? but then again my only peak guide is 'on peak rock' that was a birthday present a while back, and i've lost that too.

As for jumping off FH come down and finish it off or shut the fk up. :roll:


Is that "jumping off FH" or "jumping off, FH"?

I could always use you & your belly to jump onto if I did jump off!

cofe

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#56 Yorkshire Highballs?
September 28, 2004, 04:00:22 pm
Quote from: "lovejoy"
grrrrrrrrr


lovejoy is an angry man eh? reckon its summink to do with orange jealousy and apple inadequacy me thinks.......

sure oedipus is a highball boulder problem.....to the flake; i fucking led the lot in one pitch when i did it - no fucking around. bosch.

what next - pebble mill?

wake up.  :roll:

Big Frank

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#57 Yorkshire Highballs?
September 28, 2004, 04:01:15 pm
Quote from: "webbo"
sloper. were you and big frank an item once upon a time :?: you row more than me and the missus. :wink:


Yes, it all ended when the front wheeler stole my Scotch egg.

Sloper

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#58 Yorkshire Highballs?
September 28, 2004, 04:30:10 pm
It was an act of mercy you fat punter, if you'd eaten that egg your icnreased mass would have distorted the local gravitational field and made all the V1s into V15s.

Actually the truth is FH doesn't like me because I burn him off every time we meet :flame:

Bonjoy

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#59 Yorkshire Highballs?
September 28, 2004, 04:32:29 pm
Good rant eh :D ? Come on yer bastards i'll take yuz all on! There'll be bits of paper flyin' about, and editors hair and me spittin out chunks of arm.......or not :roll:

webbo

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#60 Yorkshire Highballs?
September 29, 2004, 03:07:37 pm
watched the vid of above and beyond when bubba was tinkering with the site.if thats bouldering mmmmmmm i guess it's time to get me coat.

a dense loner

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#61 Yorkshire Highballs?
September 29, 2004, 08:14:43 pm
come on then who's done sole power?

cofe

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#62 Yorkshire Highballs?
September 30, 2004, 09:10:19 am
Quote from: "a dense loner"
come on then who's done sole power?


jerry (the berry, perry)

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#63 Yorkshire Highballs?
September 30, 2004, 09:26:11 am
i think probably the best contender for a hard yorkshire highball has gotta be High Fidelity

Bonjoy

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#64 Yorkshire Highballs?
September 30, 2004, 09:36:24 am
Have read the article now and whilst it does include some good examples of highballs eg Sphinx, Trellis, Rollerwall, Unreachable star, Rise of the Robots, it also includes random unhighball probs like Banana finger direct and blatant leg breakers like Narcisuss and Lepton. If the definition of highball for this article was so broad it could have included allsorts of good stuff, it didn't. It just struck me as being a badly pitched and fairly uninformed article. Why a specialist article had to be written as if talking to someone who has never heard of gritstone I don't know :roll: .I guess this is what you get when a staffs boy writes an article on the eastern edges, I dare say I couldn't make a better job of a Roaches highball article either. Sorry Andi.

 PS. No Nadin didn't do Careless Torque (i asked him), I thought we'd put that myth to rest ages ago.

 Disappointed of Netheredge

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#65 Yorkshire Highballs?
September 30, 2004, 09:45:39 am
lets hope he does better with Yorkshire then - he did learn to climb there after all...................

Bubba

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#66 Yorkshire Highballs?
September 30, 2004, 09:47:22 am
Quote from: "Bonjoy"
Banana finger direct


That's an odd one to include  :?

dave

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#67 Yorkshire Highballs?
September 30, 2004, 09:47:59 am
narcissus is ridiculous - has anyone here ever seen it "bouldered out"? i think not.  of course if you were doing it you would have a mat, but you wouldn't be voluntarily bailing off it at the top. for this to be a genuine highball you've have to have so many mats that it'd never happen, like you've never have 30 people all with mats who were eilling to donate them to your pile. as for lepton, i don't consider kayak a boulder problem, and thus i can't imagine this being one.

sounds like a case of  "here is a list of routes i've soloed".

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#68 Yorkshire Highballs?
September 30, 2004, 09:56:17 am
Good topic. I agree with most of the posts and the general sentiment of what people are getting at here (especially about the relative lardiness of FH / sloper).


Edit: P.S. They *should* do a good job with Yorkshire as it's absolutely packed with classic non-route highballs surely...

Nigel

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#69 Yorkshire Highballs?
September 30, 2004, 10:19:54 am
Quote from: "Bonjoy"
Have read the article now and whilst it does include some good examples of highballs eg Sphinx, Trellis, Rollerwall, Unreachable star, Rise of the Robots


Word to all of those, this is the kind of thing a highball article should have in. I always wanted to write a highball article when I lived in Sheff, but I decided against it as I didn't consider myself qualified enough. Wish I had now. I may not know it all, but I'd have rather put Suavito, Jackaloupe, Dark Star, Spare Rib, Chip Shop Brawl, Western Eyes, D.I.Y, etc. in rather than routes and something from 'that' end of Burbage North.

Bonjoy

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#70 Yorkshire Highballs?
September 30, 2004, 11:35:57 am
Nice selection that man. Of those Chipshop Brawl made it in although the description of it as a series of slaps was a bit off the mark. Perhaps we should collate a list of the finest highballs between us and do an article for the site sometime.
 A few more:
 Curbar- The Veale Thing, Art of Japan, Canoe, Black Nix wall, The Scoop
 Baslow- Renaisance, Hot Ziggerty, Jolly Green Giant(Dwarf?)
 Froggat-Leggit, Business Lunch,
 Black Rocks- Golden Days, Make it Slappy, The Runnel
 Robin Hoods Stride/ Cratcliffe- Knot Grass Stunt, Skagolia, Mock Beggar's Wall, Grisely Arete, Hueco wall routes.
 Rivelin- Acid Reign, Boulder Club, Trivial Pursuits, Steph, I'm Back, Fumf, Wobbly wall, Only here for the smear, Cool Running, Phse Action, Huffy's Arete
 Wharncliffe- Stuff round Tensile test, Stuff round the Outlook
 Bamford- Stuff like Master blaster and Green parrot around Gun buttress, Down to Earth and the rib to the left.
 Birchens- Scrim Net, Oarsman, Hornblower, Obstructive Pensioner
 Chatsworth- Shy Boy, High Step, Price, Monk's Park
 Stanage- Mounting Frustration, Fear and Loathing, Mini micro, Shiznits, Shock Horror slab, Daydreamer, Four Star, New York New York, Microbe, Love Handles, Solomon's Seal etc.
 Burb North- Small Arctic Mammal, Irrepresible Urge, Agnostic Arete
 Burb Sud area- Cap'n Sensible, Bath House Pink, Guplets on toast, The Alliance
 Higgar- Big slab easyish slab thingy, Jupiter slab
 Gardoms- Thing on wall round and left of Make it Snappy, Mo's ting nr Moyers, Business as Usual, Master of Thought, Cidrax, Cider, Bitter
 If I was at home and could flick thru guide the list would be twice as long.

dave

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#71 Yorkshire Highballs?
September 30, 2004, 11:50:46 am
Quote
Mo's ting nr Moyers


lets cut the shite, please. :roll:

also i'd drop Art of japan cos its not highball. also cut I'm Back cos mats don't really help, and plus it sounds like its already suffered at the hands of the wirebrush recently without attractin unwanted attention to it.

webbo

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#72 Yorkshire Highballs?
September 30, 2004, 11:56:04 am
captain sensible,now your talking. :D

Bonjoy

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#73 Yorkshire Highballs?
September 30, 2004, 11:57:30 am
Mo's ting is out if it Shoit, I always thought that block might have climbed quite nicely, oh well. I'm Back's fine as long as you remember to jump left, true the mat doesn't help much a bit like Breadline in those respects. Aof J ain't much highball but is currently listed as a route in guide and deserves attention specially if it fails to make it into any bouldering guides/topos.

a dense loner

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#74 Yorkshire Highballs?
September 30, 2004, 12:18:26 pm
mo's ting is shite. good lookin line tho, pity :cry:

 

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