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Shock of the new (Read 12377 times)

Jono_Bell

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Shock of the new
October 01, 2018, 10:43:33 am
So, it seems Shock of the new has been removed from Youtube due to copyright infringement. I was super gutted to find out about this as the video has been great for psych and inspiration over the years. I posted on UKC to see if anyone knew where I'd be able to find a copy and was sent here. Can anyone help?

Cheers, Jono.

Nan

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#1 Re: Shock of the new
December 02, 2018, 12:07:51 pm
I have it, I messaged Dan (the producer of the film) and asked what he wanted to do with it and hes given me permission to post it on my vimeo channel, lets hope vimeo does have the same problem with it.  Will post it later today.

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#2 Re: Shock of the new
December 02, 2018, 12:59:31 pm
If you set it as private with a password, this may get it past the music copyright algorithms which have got a lot more serious on Vimeo recently.

Nan

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#3 Re: Shock of the new
December 02, 2018, 04:49:47 pm

Steve R

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#4 Re: Shock of the new
December 02, 2018, 05:16:01 pm
Nice one, thanks Neil.  I've just downloaded the file from vimeo just in case!

webbo

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#5 Re: Shock of the new
December 02, 2018, 06:34:37 pm
 :o
I wasn’t expecting that at the end.

tim palmer

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#6 Re: Shock of the new
December 02, 2018, 10:00:36 pm
What was the damage from that fall at the end? 

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#7 Re: Shock of the new
December 02, 2018, 10:35:31 pm
Thanks a ton for uploading  :thumbsup: . Was gutted when it got taken down from YouTube

Nan

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#8 Re: Shock of the new
December 03, 2018, 07:48:36 am
I think he broke his ankle on the fall from weather report. Not sure but sure something snapped.

Will Hunt

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#9 Re: Shock of the new
December 03, 2018, 09:20:53 am
I'd forgotten how stomach churning some of those are. Dithering at the top of Blood on the Shamrock, 10000 Maniacs, Heartbeat City, Tender Homecoming (climbed almost straddling the arete ffs). Hideous watches. And then the end is basically snuff.

Doylo

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#10 Re: Shock of the new
December 03, 2018, 09:54:54 am
Not as stomach churning as belaying Dan falling off Knocking twice.

mark20

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#11 Re: Shock of the new
December 03, 2018, 10:06:16 am
Fucking Bon effort!

highrepute

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#12 Re: Shock of the new
December 03, 2018, 10:07:12 am
 :2thumbsup:

I have a copy of the dvd version of this some where, although may have thrown away at some point. Some interesting clips to be found on that by clicking on hidden menu options. The weather report fall was one of those hidden options so wasn't part of the original film itself. Which sort of made a different experience watching. The other hidden clips were seriously fucked up shit so you were expecting more fucked up shit on weather report.

I've also seen a version of this with Dan doing a sort of directors commentary. Can't remember if that was on the dvd or online somewhere. It's very good though. Gives some back ground to some of the climbs. Like why he did stigmata in his trainers and having the instinct to run down Gaia when falling off and kick off the base of the slab to avoid swinging into the arete a la hard grit.

grimer

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#13 Re: Shock of the new
December 03, 2018, 10:12:30 am
I showed a bit of this DVD at an Ape Index show one night. Dan was say beside me at the front in the darkness and he kept leaning over, shouty-whispering "This was mental, I almost came off", "I almost fucking died there," ""If that RP had failed I was fucked", "Certain death there mate!". It was a private personal director's commentary.

Steve R

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#14 Re: Shock of the new
December 03, 2018, 10:21:53 am
I think you might be confusing shock of the new with consumed highrepute? 

highrepute

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#15 Re: Shock of the new
December 03, 2018, 10:31:40 am
I think you might be confusing shock of the new with consumed highrepute?

Yes you're right I am. I feel the weather report fall was on the consumed dvd though? Memory failing me

nik at work

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#16 Re: Shock of the new
December 03, 2018, 10:45:02 am
I think he broke his ankle on the fall from weather report. Not sure but sure something snapped.

It was just some bruising, nothing broken (although plenty sore I'm sure).

I fucking loved climbing with Dan and Tom, it was amazing adventure after amazing adventure.

Steve R

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#17 Re: Shock of the new
December 03, 2018, 11:00:08 am
I feel the weather report fall was on the consumed dvd though?

Yeah in the hidden extras I think along with the commentary version which, like you say, is great.

GazM

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#18 Re: Shock of the new
December 14, 2018, 09:41:49 am
It would be cool to get a bit of the backstory from the UKB knowledge hub about Tom and Dan and there films.They seem to have been prolific in their grit ascents for a period, but are they still about and active? Where did they go? Was all this during the post-Hard Grit headpointing years that Grimer often refers to in Jam Crack?
As a non-Peak climber it's nice to get a bit of context to the folklore!

Johnny Brown

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#19 Re: Shock of the new
December 14, 2018, 12:32:09 pm
Dan is a hospital doctor in Australia and still climbs. Tom is a graphic designer in London and doesn't do much. AFAIK.

Yeah it was the late nineties Hard Grit scene. Dan and Tom were pretty much just into headpointing, Dan especially so. Going climbing for him meant headpointing of E6 and above - he once amazed me by describing the moves on The Fall at Curbar, but not knowing the name of 'that E4' to the right (Profit of Doom).

The internet was in its infancy and news still came via the magazines, who mostly relied on word of mouth or direct submissions for news. This tended to mean some people were over-represented and others missed. That most top climbers were aware of this discrepancy tended to foster an 'us and them' scene, with Tom and Dan's crew very much existing mostly under the radar of the mags, though not other active climbers. As you can probably tell from the films Dan seemed quite happy with that outsider status. I never quite got the logic but it seemed to be that by not telling the mags what they were up to they thereby undermined the value of what they did publish. To me trying to subvert the historical record would be fine if you weren't so reliant on others not so doing before you, via books, guidebooks inspiring articles etc. Interesting times. Nobody anticipated Instagram...

Stu Littlefair

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#20 Re: Shock of the new
December 14, 2018, 12:54:15 pm
Wasn't all of that just post-hoc justification for the fact that doing hard stuff, but being "above" all the self-promotion bullshit, gave you an additional ego-hit for being a soul climber?

Johnny Brown

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#21 Re: Shock of the new
December 14, 2018, 01:20:30 pm
Nah, I think it probably all stemmed from a mistaken assumption that the mags would come to you. When they didn't... fuck 'em.

Doylo

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#22 Re: Shock of the new
December 14, 2018, 01:41:20 pm
I used to live with Dan. He went apeshit once because he found some pubes on the toilet seat. He deleted me off Facebook at some point so maybe he’s still mad about it. Intense guy.

andy popp

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#23 Re: Shock of the new
December 14, 2018, 01:42:50 pm
Were they Sheffield based during the 90s? I'm just surprised I never met them, I was climbing on grit often enough.

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#24 Re: Shock of the new
December 14, 2018, 01:44:28 pm
I always thought the ‘fuck you’ was a projection of personal angst and a confused desire for recognition without the debasement that comes from selling bullshit. In the vain of 3rd Rock today for example. The new routes were regularly recorded in the Outside new routes book and we had a copy of the films and ascent list around that time. The underground status and slightly unhinged nature of it all definitely added to the mystique. Funnily enough I’m not sure the hard grit ascentionists were really looking for fame and I’d imagine Neil who seemed to be operating above everyone else was less than bothered although I’d imagine it’s nice to achieve gritstone god status. 

Johnny Brown

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#25 Re: Shock of the new
December 14, 2018, 02:02:24 pm
Were they Sheffield based during the 90s? I'm just surprised I never met them, I was climbing on grit often enough.

It was a fairly short period, 98-02 roughly. I bumped into them a lot.

andy popp

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#26 Re: Shock of the new
December 14, 2018, 02:10:28 pm
Were they Sheffield based during the 90s? I'm just surprised I never met them, I was climbing on grit often enough.

It was a fairly short period, 98-02 roughly. I bumped into them a lot.

That explains it, I left Sheffield in the Spring of 98 and started climbing primarily in Cheshire.

Will Hunt

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#27 Re: Shock of the new
December 14, 2018, 02:21:22 pm
The angst doesn't necessarily come from climbing well and not being recognised, but probably more from climbing well and not being recognised when there are other clearly inferior climbers who are being recognised. This is commonplace today (see the Climbing Today thread ad nauseum).


dunnyg

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#28 Re: Shock of the new
December 14, 2018, 03:20:05 pm
Today I would argue that everyone knows who is an instacunt or, if they have half a brain, can work it out fairly swiftly.

Will Hunt

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#29 Re: Shock of the new
December 14, 2018, 03:36:52 pm
Today I would argue that everyone knows who is an instacunt or, if they have half a brain, can work it out fairly swiftly.

Thinking about the conversations I've had with relatively new climbers, I'd beg to differ.

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#30 Re: Shock of the new
December 14, 2018, 03:56:24 pm
So you've managed to fool them Will ;)

nik at work

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#31 Re: Shock of the new
December 14, 2018, 04:57:02 pm
Dan is in the States, Tom works in London. Dan still climbs a fair bit, Tom less so I think but they're both still quite handy. I climbed with them in the South West a couple of years ago.

Dan was an intense personality, Tom more chilled. I climbed with them at the start of their headpointing onslaught, but missed the end of it (when I think they climbed with slightly bigger group Si Moore, JB?, Huffy, Scut and others??). I never really felt any of the suggested "want to be on the scene/fuck the scene/want to be famous/anti-publicity" complex psychology vibe. From my point of view they were just a couple of people who wanted to headpoint all the grit routes/do some new routes in peace and quiet. This was certainly clearly the case with Tom I think, with Dan it was perhaps a more confused picture (or could certainly appear that way) due to his unique personality (that's not a criticism, I think the guy is brilliant, but he's one of a kind).

I suspect even now Dan has possibly/probably the most complete grit E6 and above ticklist ever.

Having said all that, he did make some films so maybe there was a bit of fame-hunger, or maybe he just liked doing it?? Maybe things were different later on when I wasn't on the scene, maybe that was when you saw him more JB (I don't remember meeting you out and about particularly. Anyway climbing with them was brilliant.

Doylo

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#32 Re: Shock of the new
December 14, 2018, 05:19:54 pm
Scut! What became of him??

nik at work

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#33 Re: Shock of the new
December 14, 2018, 05:31:03 pm
Scut is one of the guys behind a hold/matting company (can't remember the name sorry)

dunnyg

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#34 Re: Shock of the new
December 14, 2018, 06:19:25 pm
Sorry, I meant every reasonably experienced climber rather than someone who has seconded a few vs and seen a a video of some climb in Yosemite. Not sure what point I was trying to make.

Doylo

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#35 Re: Shock of the new
December 14, 2018, 06:34:43 pm
Scut is one of the guys behind a hold/matting company (can't remember the name sorry)

He was the strongest of the bunch. Beast.

Johnny Brown

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#36 Re: Shock of the new
December 14, 2018, 07:11:00 pm
He's still about, I bump into him now and then at the crag.

Tom went to uni in Leeds at the same time as BB, climbed with him a fair bit in that scene too. I never found him bothered about the publicity thing (his Gaia ascent got a load early on) that was Dan and Ross as far as I could gather.

grimer

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#37 Re: Shock of the new
December 14, 2018, 07:41:03 pm
Remember how nobody was allowed to know Ross had done Unfamiliar :-)

Johnny Brown

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#38 Re: Shock of the new
December 14, 2018, 09:00:23 pm
Shh, ffs. He was still sending me angry emails about that a few years back.

nik at work

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#39 Re: Shock of the new
December 14, 2018, 09:09:09 pm
Ross came along after the time when I was climbing with Dan and Tom. I don't know the guy at all, although I think I might have met him.

Also I didn't mean to imply that they were especially secretive about their climbs, rather I didn't feel like they actively sought attention/publicity. Depending on his mood on a given day I imagine Dan could have bwen awkward or effusive if asked about his climbing. I'd imagine Tom would have been polite and modest but still open if asked.

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#40 Re: Shock of the new
December 14, 2018, 10:13:23 pm
I think Dan came round to our house a couple of times when Chris Jones (cool Australian dude, not the one with dreads)  was staying with us (late 90s?). If it was him, I remember being impressed by his tactic of watching skateboarding videos to build psyche and resilience just before going out on grit.

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#41 Re: Shock of the new
December 14, 2018, 10:17:51 pm
Whatever the intentions the end result has been quite a bit of mystique and notoriety. I expect the films played a part in that.

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#42 Re: Shock of the new
December 14, 2018, 11:01:39 pm
Dan is currently very active in Hueco and New Mexico, following stints in California, Oz, Tasmania, and Grimsby.
https://www.mountainproject.com/user/107782382/crimper-e6/contributions
I potter around occasionally… 


Scut is the mastermind behind Core Climbing holds. I was in Japan recently and the wall in Yokohama had a whole board devoted exclusively to Core holds – nice work.


Fun times climbing with Dan! Back then he had a healthy(?) disregard for authority which manifested itself in various ways both in and out of climbing: winding-up the people at the mags, top-roping routes you were 'supposed' to save for the onsight, boulder trundling… even just getting to the crag would likely turn into some kind of escapade.


We were both motivated by the idea of doing all the E6 and above on grit (except the Paul Mitchell ones). The approach was: maximum number in a day, by any means necessary – though we did get up some of the easier E6s like Kaluza Klein from the deck, and Dan is a secret onsighter when he’s not on the grit. As for my small part in this, I was frequently climbing on my own, with others, or further afield, so the routes on the vid are just a random sample of stuff I did at the time.


Digital video was new back then and Dan just wanted to document it all, so if you were going climbing with him you were going to get filmed. Pretty awesome that genuinely hard stuff like Fagus Sylvatica was caught on camera. He didn’t set out with any particular aim of making a release but then just got really into the editing, music and hidden tracks.


Oh, and I was basically fine after falling off Weather Report. I’m just a bit of a wimp so it looked bad.

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#43 Re: Shock of the new
December 15, 2018, 05:51:02 am
Dan is currently very active in Hueco and New Mexico, following stints in California, Oz, Tasmania, and Grimsby.
https://www.mountainproject.com/user/107782382/crimper-e6/contributions
I potter around occasionally… 


Scut is the mastermind behind Core Climbing holds. I was in Japan recently and the wall in Yokohama had a whole board devoted exclusively to Core holds – nice work.


Fun times climbing with Dan! Back then he had a healthy(?) disregard for authority which manifested itself in various ways both in and out of climbing: winding-up the people at the mags, top-roping routes you were 'supposed' to save for the onsight, boulder trundling… even just getting to the crag would likely turn into some kind of escapade.


We were both motivated by the idea of doing all the E6 and above on grit (except the Paul Mitchell ones). The approach was: maximum number in a day, by any means necessary – though we did get up some of the easier E6s like Kaluza Klein from the deck, and Dan is a secret onsighter when he’s not on the grit. As for my small part in this, I was frequently climbing on my own, with others, or further afield, so the routes on the vid are just a random sample of stuff I did at the time.


Digital video was new back then and Dan just wanted to document it all, so if you were going climbing with him you were going to get filmed. Pretty awesome that genuinely hard stuff like Fagus Sylvatica was caught on camera. He didn’t set out with any particular aim of making a release but then just got really into the editing, music and hidden tracks.


Oh, and I was basically fine after falling off Weather Report. I’m just a bit of a wimp so it looked bad.

There goes the mystery!

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#44 Re: Shock of the new
December 15, 2018, 10:35:11 am
I met and climbed once with Ross at Arbroath. I was crushingly disappointed to find out that the Anti-Headpointing Consortium was not a real organisation and no I couldn't apply for membership  :'( He does quite a lot of winter climbing these days IIRC.

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#45 Re: Shock of the new
December 15, 2018, 01:04:22 pm
I met and climbed once with Ross at Arbroath. I was crushingly disappointed to find out that the Anti-Headpointing Consortium was not a real organisation and no I couldn't apply for membership 

Well we could always start one...

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#46 Re: Shock of the new
December 15, 2018, 01:55:58 pm
Awesome, this is exactly the fact, fiction and folklore I was hoping for.

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#47 Re: Shock of the new
January 18, 2019, 03:58:45 pm
Cheers for preposting that Nan! It’s been tertaining reading people’s tales of the lads too, it’s awesome to see the vid hit home with a lot of others as well.

 

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