[tomtom]

(the thread name is a joke BTW...)

A funny week for me. Only managed to get out twice (Anston and Blackstone Edge) and had two very frustrating experiences - nearly getting what I wanted to get done, but not. A project at Anston, and nearly got my first 7B in a session at Blackstone.

But - I tried so hard on both sessions. Often I find it quite easy to just - ah - well - meh - walk away when it feels like nothing was going to go right. Here, I really tried really really hard and nearly came away - so in a strange way feel quite satisfied after...

Dropped it right at the end here in "The Ladys not for Gurning F7B" at Blackstone... having spent alot of time and skin working out how to get over the top (I'm shit at this type of scrittle cuddling..)

[shark]

11.1-2 average 156.2 (down 0.4lbs on last week)

M.

T. Tor with Keith. Morning. Had to fit in around another team combined with a lateish start meant both redpoint attempts on AM were in the sun though rock was cool. Got up to clipping bolt on headwall both times but then ran out of beans. Then had multiple goes on the kick move of Bens after but didn’t do it though hopefully had some core strengthening effect for next time. Got word that the Oak was dry!

W.

T.

F. Malham PM Picked Mina up from Airton. Cold air temp but catwalk baked in sun. Warmup on Cons then we all huddled in shade at left side till sun went off about 3.30pm Several goes from ground but rock warm and slipped off hand and footholds a few times and then a couple of disappointing attempts of throw to top at the end as it got dark. With hindsight I think I did a couple of the foot moves in a flawed way so will focus on ironing those out next time. No links of note. Experimented with secret stuff liquid chalk but no noticeable improvement from using it. Disappointing first session of the season

S.

S.

Lots of varied property related shizzle this week - good and bad. Climbing wise I guess it became a tapering week in prep for October campaign on the Oak. Think I am in pretty good shape for it. Going to stay up there monday. tuesday and wednesday with Zippy which will be novel. Great to hear that Tanya ticked the Oak.

[36chambers]

Monday - Sunday: Didn't do, or try, Griffs or the Keel.

[tomtom]

Monday - Sunday: Didn't do, or try, Griffs or the Keel.

Have you got any video footage to prove this? 😃

[nai]

Knee much improved still not allowing me to climb.

M AeroPow repeaters, 12 hangs @ c50%. Bit experimental but felt pretty effective
    Bodyweight shizzle and core

T rest

W Max Hangs. Bit of an oddity/anomoly. Broke my recent PBs in the warm up and ended up adding twice as much weight as the previous session to 3 of 4 grips.
TRX

Th AnCap Repeaters. 5 hangs @ 80%. Intensity a bit low so had to do extra sets before failure and call the first three warmups.
Bodyweight stuff. Managed a Crane balance for the first time so I guess I'm getting stronger?

F AeroPow repeaters. Had worked out that Aberration is 16 moves between the big undercut shake and the Gonads belay shake, and I guess that's the route I'm most likely to target if I do manage to get out this Autumn, so did 16 hangs at 50%. Completed all sets, not easily, but could go a bit higher next time.

S rest

S Forearms still felt a bit tired but tried to warm up.  Took ages, knew I should have sacked it (or not even started) but, moth-like, kept returning to the fingerboard until advanced warmup stage when a pain started in my left wrist every time I pulled on, at which poiint I did sack it.

[cheque]

Rehab diaries week 6. Six months since my accident this week.

STG- Leading routes and carrying normal loads to the crag by this time next year.
 
M- Rest. Tired from the weekend.

T- Rest. Getting a cold thing. GF’s got it already.

W- Got a cold. GF’s off work. She’s never off work. Uh-oh.

T- Both wake up feeling loads better! Physio- he’s well impressed by my progress/ initiative and tells me I can manage my own rehab from now on. Agree that I’ll have one more, final physio meeting in three month’s time. This and the results of a blood test that I’m expecting to be fine are the only NHS things I have left now. 

F- Rest.

S- Stanage Plantation. Second a few routes and lead one for the first time since my accident! Only a VDiff but not one I’ve done before. Absolutely buzzing for hours afterwards. 😄 Stay later than mates to take some pictures and walk back down alone through the Plantation in a beautiful sunset.

S- Sore! At Stanage taking pictures. Scrambled up and down descent routes which is all good rehab- every time I do it I’m more confident and comfortable. Carried ab rope up there (unnecessarily it turned out) which is the heaviest/ furthest bit of carrying I’ve done and it felt OK. I also properly tripped over hiking up there which was, in a weird way, good as well- I haven’t fallen like that since I got hurt and it’s reassuring to realise that I can stack it with zero ill-effects after feeling fragile for ages.

Great week. It’s looking like I’ll be ticking my STG way earlier than expected! Didn’t go to the gym or wall for various reasons but back on that this week. Also just got a camera gimbal thing that feels like it’s a good way to strengthen my back.

[TobyD]

M foundry auto belay routes to 7a, core and TRX
T rivelin run 6.2km
W tor tried call of nature, 3 goes, then 2 laps of sardine to finish
T wanted to climb but failed to find a partner, 70+km road ride, including up Wynatt's pass.
F Burbage valley run 7km
S tor, went up call of nature twice, doing better each go but not loving it, crux is really sharp. Two working goes on the toilet, way more my style and more comfortable holds. Needed some new blancos though... Old floppy velcros not ideal.
S road run 7.4 km

[moose]

(the thread name is a joke BTW...)

definitely, a serious man would have called it "Keel Klub and Griff's gossip"... alliteration rulz!

[andy popp]

S- Stanage Plantation. Second a few routes and lead one for the first time since my accident! Only a VDiff but not one I’ve done before. Absolutely buzzing for hours afterwards. 😄 Stay later than mates to take some pictures and walk back down alone through the Plantation in a beautiful sunset.

I can picture it now. Awesome Mike.

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - garage session. Lattice Edge, 1,5 cm edge, 0,9 cm edge. Various normal and one armed hangs. Overhead walk, 1/1x5 30 kg.
Tue - rest.
Wed - pull ups, triceps planks, lateral raises, overhead press, curls, high pulls, 6x5. Loaded carries 3/3x2. Heavy.
Thu - system: dynamic up and down 4x6; lock offs 4x6. Abs and dumbbell thruster combo x5.
Fri - boxing bag. All the hits x50x2 (regular and south pole).
Sat - rest.
Sun - rest.

This week marked the start of my new fingers program, in which new is the program and not the fingers, unluckily. Each Monday will be dedicated just to making my fingers strong. First Monday of each cycle will be max hangs in the garage; second Monday will be a system full crimp session; third Monday will be high volume on the BM. Fourth Monday will be rest. 
On a side note: loaded carries are the best thing ever.

[nai]

Fri - boxing bag. All the hits x50x2 (regular and south pole).

Do you mean southpaw? Leading with right hand

[Coops_13]

M: Tag Rugby - first game back since doing the hamstring. Won the game, good running and scored a few tries
T: Arch. Good session. Warm-up then small amount of campus board. Did 1-4-7 R-arm, close L-arm. Onto one-arm max hangs, 7 sec hang with 3 min rest. 8 sets pyramid from -24kg to -18kg to -24kg with double set at -18kg moving at 2kg increments. Good workout to get me back into them and not too tweaky. Fingers too tired to climb after so did a couple of sets of Ts, Ys and Is on the rings. Front lever holds, one-armer attempts. Back physio X2 as fatigued then finished with two sets of antagonistic exercises - wrist and bicep curls, chest and shoulder press
W:
T: Arch. Good session. Warm-up then small amount of campus board. Did 1-4-7 R-arm, close L-arm. Onto one-arm max hangs, 7 sec hang with 3 min rest. 8 sets pyramid from -24kg to -20kg to -24kg with double set at -22kg and triple at -20kg moving at 2kg increments. Fingers feeling weaker and more tweaky so didn't go as heavy. A couple of sets of Ts, Ys and Is on the rings. Front lever holds, one-armer attempts. Back physio X3 then finished with two sets of antagonistic exercises - wrist and bicep curls, chest and shoulder press
F:
S:
S: Arch. Poor session, for some reason I had v sore skin so couldn't climb as much as I wanted to. This ruled out the 50, moon and the campus board. Did a number of problems of the new set though so not to bad. Also climbed with csl for the first time in a while

Good to be back doing max hangs, with a good warm up it wasn't tweaky for the wrist! Aiming to get down to -16kg this week

[spidermonkey09]

M - fingerboard session; first in a while. Not as dreadful as I expected but not brilliant either.

T - Depot. Can't remember anything about this session but think it was ok! Some more core work at the end which had an effect.

W - Caley after work. Adrenaline Rush was clean and there were a lot of pads so thought it worth an onsight go. Read it well and after a bit of a ponder at the crux committed and latched the top. Abbed down Marrow Bone Jelly for a look but this needs a good clean and good conditions.

T - .....the Keel after work! (someone had to). Fell off the cut loose four times. Need to try and control this better and maybe match the chip rather than holding the divot on the lip with the right hand while cutting.

F - rest.

S - Earl Crag. First time there; brilliant crag. Nothing given away in the 5's and 6's though! Best problems were John Dunne Slap and Australia Roof. Tried the Flakes but didn't have the guns. Some good looking highballs on the crag edge. Trashed skin.

S - Malham. Tried Mescalito again now it was dry and unsurprisingly felt considerably easier. First RP foot blew off at the start of New Dawn runout when feeling good. Steady on second RP all the way to the last clip, where I got the sequence wrong reaching the clipping crimps. Too pumped to crimp left hand so forced to drag the edge while I corrected myself. Pulled a load of slack through and attempted to clip the chain, but was short by approximately 5cm! Pulled some more through and clipped it just in time. Good to get this finished off quickly.

Skin in ruins this morning so might row back on the after work gritstone in favour of some fingerboarding this week!

[SA Chris]

M - post work surf. Aberdeen as big as I've seen it for years. Relatively easy paddle out between sets, to middle of bay. One out apparent the waves way to big for my paddling and dropping skills, so retreated to the bunfight of Footdee "reef" and managed to pick of 3 or 4 good rides befor ei had to get out to go to school meeting. First decent surf of winter, and arms felt it.
T - nothing
W - quick 5 k at lunch. Evening boulder at TE. felt fairly good, but it was pretty sweaty.
T - nothing
F - after work run, 13k on Hill of Fare. Great evening, good company, who was pushing me along, but not leaving me behind.
S - nowt
S - nowt

[Nibile]

Fri - boxing bag. All the hits x50x2 (regular and south pole).

Do you mean southpaw? Leading with right hand

Yes! I read somewhere that the term is south pole...
 

[moose]

Yes! I read somewhere that the term is south pole...
 

To quote Joe Frazier's advice to long-time resident of Milan, Marvin Hagler, “You’ve got three things going against you: you’re black, you’re a southpaw, and you're good”!

[Nibile]

Marvin "The Marvellous" Hagler.
One of my idols, his fights against Mugabe and Tommy Hearnes are two of my all time favourites.
Shame about the fight with Leonard, I think Hagler was highly penalized.
Oh well.

[petejh]

11.1-2 average 156.2 (down 0.4lbs on last week)

M.

T. Tor with Keith. Morning. Had to fit in around another team combined with a lateish start meant both redpoint attempts on AM were in the sun though rock was cool. Got up to clipping bolt on headwall both times but then ran out of beans. Then had multiple goes on the kick move of Bens after but didn’t do it though hopefully had some core strengthening effect for next time. Got word that the Oak was dry!

W.

T.

F. Malham PM Picked Mina up from Airton. Cold air temp but catwalk baked in sun. Warmup on Cons then we all huddled in shade at left side till sun went off about 3.30pm Several goes from ground but rock warm and slipped off hand and footholds a few times and then a couple of disappointing attempts of throw to top at the end as it got dark. With hindsight I think I did a couple of the foot moves in a flawed way so will focus on ironing those out next time. No links of note. Experimented with secret stuff liquid chalk but no noticeable improvement from using it. Disappointing first session of the season

S.

S.

Lots of varied property related shizzle this week - good and bad. Climbing wise I guess it became a tapering week in prep for October campaign on the Oak. Think I am in pretty good shape for it. Going to stay up there monday. tuesday and wednesday with Zippy which will be novel. Great to hear that Tanya ticked the Oak.

Bet you do it this week or next. If so you owe me £20.

[tommytwotone]

Goal: Font 7anything (new)


M: nowt
T: gym session on lunch - rehab / TRX / hollow hangs
W: nowt
T: good Depot session after work, did a couple of the new Font 66+(ish) purples
F: gym on lunch -  took portable fingerboard and did some sets of repeaters
S: nowt - childcare, started feeling a bit grotty
S: trip to Brimham en famille. I did some warm-up grade stuff at Car Park boulders, kids had fun exploring and clambering about. If anyone's got little ones the area near Fantasy League is good for kid sized climbing / weselling etc.


Having got psyched to get training again, sure as night follows day I have fallen ill. Off work today with a weird nausea / cold-but-not-a-cold feeling.

[tomtom]

Goal: Font 7anything (new)

3T, having worked in the online gambling sector - how can we get some Oak odds set up?

[nai]

Bet you do it this week or next. If so you owe me £20.

Anger Management, Ben's Roof or The Oak?

[tomtom]

Bet you do it this week or next. If so you owe me £20.

Anger Management, Ben's Roof or The Oak?

oooh... accumulator!

[nai]

Goal: Font 7anything (new)

3T, having worked in the online gambling sector - how can we get some Oak odds set up?

The season side markets are going to hold the most interest here, initially at least:

Ground to Horn y/n
Throw to top y/n
most mentioned condidition: baking/glassy/sticky damp
weight at successful ascent ynder/over 152.5
Most frequent belayer:: Steve/Mina/Keith/Nick C/Ben
Number of pairs of Whites used: under over 1.5

[tommytwotone]

Goal: Font 7anything (new)

3T, having worked in the online gambling sector - how can we get some Oak odds set up?

Think we'd be safe to price that one manually. Just need to make sure someone suspends betting when Insect Overlord #1 punches the clock at Malham.

[petejh]

Days following successful Oak redpoint until an 8b+ project is mentioned online by Shark: less than/more than 5 days.

C'mon the Shark nail the fucker.

[Wood FT]

I think you'll do it next week too, Shark.

[shark]

Thanks fellas

Mint conditions this afternoon/evening. Best go ground to touching horn and refined/remembered some of the more subtle movements. Something weird happened when stripping the route when I mysteriously unclipped from a bolt and somehow strained my right middle finger (should have left the draws in  ) Have iced my finger in a wine glass in the Listers. Reckon it should be ok tomorrow. Up here for two more days. Zippy currently serenading me on mini grand. I shit you not.

[TobyD]

Days following successful Oak redpoint until an 8b+ project is mentioned online by Shark: less than/more than 5 days minutes.

C'mon the Shark nail the fucker.

Corrected for you Pete.

[tommytwotone]

Thanks fellas

Mint conditions this afternoon/evening. Best go ground to touching horn and refined/remembered some of the more subtle movements. Something weird happened when stripping the route when I mysteriously unclipped from a bolt and somehow strained my right middle finger (should have left the draws in  ) Have iced my finger in a wine glass in the Listers. Reckon it should be ok tomorrow. Up here for two more days. Zippy currently serenading me on mini grand. I shit you not.

PRICE UPDATE

Shark to tick The Oak:

On or before 31st December 2018: 4/6
On or after 1st January 2019: 6/5

[Sasquatch]

Good week overall. 

M - Personal Assessment - Fingers and other stuff as good as previous assessment in January, but 10lbs lighter. Felt good considering I haven't been on a FB since around March
T - Routes w Wife - first time in ages - 5.10, 5.10, 5.11, 5.11, 5.12, 5.11, 5.12, 5.11
W - Moonboard at friends house on 2017 setup - Managed to do about 10 of the v7 and v8 benchmarks. Still not sold on the 2017 setup.
T - Rest
F - Ancap - 10 x v7, then some fun OS'ing up to v8. 
S - Long Mtn BIke - 27 miles in perfect weather. 
S - rest - pretty worked from long bike.

[Steve R]

PRICE UPDATE

Shark to tick The Oak:

On or before 31st December 2018: 4/6
On or after 1st January 2019: 6/5

Any plans for 'in play' markets this season?  Ideally this would include Liam Lonsdale, live streams and Paddy Power flat brim caps.   

[moose]

Personally, I feel setting a betting market is opening a gateway to corruption and bad deeds.... I am already contemplating laying on Betfair and sneaking off to Malham with a bottle of cooking oil and paintbrush.

[shark]

To factor into the algorithms I was hopeless today. First time I’ve tried it two days in a row and won’t be making that mistake again. On the plus side the strained finger was okish as long as I don’t twist it. Weighing a bit too heavy and feels like I’m coming down with a cold. Next attempt Friday

[Will Hunt]

I'm not sure that gambling and Shark's Oak campaign make easy bedfellows. What's that Gamble Aware slogan? "When the fun stops, stop".
Not really on message is it?