[nai]

If you want to discuss The Keel, gentlemen, perhaps you could do that in your own time?   

[tomtom]

If you want to discuss The Keel, gentlemen, perhaps you could do that in your own time?   

:D

[36chambers]

If you want to discuss The Keel, gentlemen, perhaps you could do that in your own time?   

:D

At least let us post a few videos showcasing multiple ways of not doing the problem first 

[36chambers]

...

...

Don't listen to Will, his beta may as well be "be taller".

For the last move it might help to cut loose first and then campus. I never managed the "cut loose and slap to the pocket" move, felt like I had too much body under the roof and would just graze my chest on the way up.

[Bradders]

I think this is the benchmark for "shorter climber doing The Keel". If Rob can do it... still one of my favourite ever climbing videos actually.

[tomtom]

If you want to discuss The Keel, gentlemen, perhaps you could do that in your own time?   

:D

At least let us post a few videos showcasing multiple ways of not doing the problem first 

Oh well if that's the case....

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - dumbbell complex, pull ups, 5x10. BM 10"x6: big rung normal, back3, front3. Small rung normal x3. Various tests. BM I love you.
Tue - rest.
Wed - dumbbell circuit: lateral raises, biceps, triceps, pull ups x6x5. BM small rung 10"x6x5. Dumbbell complex static. Tired.
Thu - 21 minutes of various loaded carries: overhead, shoulder, etc. Fantastic. 3'x3, 4'x3.
Fri - light work. Planks, triceps, etc.
Sat - rest.
Sun - static/dynamic session: pull ups, curls, press, high pulls 10"x6x3; then the same, dynamic, 6x3 plus triceps. Overhead carry 1'. Exhausted.

[Nibile]

DOMS

What did you do the previous week? Can't find your PC entry.

[tommytwotone]

Not much of an update from me.


LTG: Font 7anything


M: nowt, first day of running eldest to school and back.
T: nowt
W: nowt
T: nowt
F: nowt - was going to go to gym but couldn't pluck up the motivation.
S: afternoon of looking after Clem so dragged him to the Cliff with me to meet Dolly None of us tried or did The Keel. I did a little bit of climbing but got a better workout chasing Clem about and walking around with him on my shoulders.
S: nowt, cooked a huge roast dinner though.


Bit of a manic week - first week of me, other half, son and daughter all being back in respective employment, schools and childcare. Getting everyone out of the door at 7am-7:30am was enough effort in itself.


Got the routine sorted now so going to get back to gym on lunchtime when I'm in Leeds to focus on rehab / shoulder strength, and get back to a 1/2 session a week at the wall.

[nai]

None of us tried or did The Keel.

Effort. Better to fail, or not try, then spray than to succeed and say nothing.

[tommytwotone]

I mean if we wanna get pedantic we didn't try or do anything at Griff's either...

[Footwork]

SHOTS FIRED

[nai]

DOMS

What did you do the previous week? Can't find your PC entry.

https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,24552.msg570664.html#msg570664

Effort Chris

[Sasquatch]

I'm in a bit of an odd place training wise.  I've got a 2 week trip to Moab coming up in October, which means I've got two weeks left of the season here.  I think it's basically get what I can done, have fun in Moab, but mostly bike and enjoy whatever.  Then hit the training hard after I get back for a January trip to Hueco Tanks.

Two weeks to get in here as I was out of town last week.

M-Mtn bike 2 hr, then started teaching technique class again, so moderate to light climbing in evening up to 7Aish.
T- Rest
W- out to Hatcher pass. Hiked up to put final bolts/effort into last hard route I'll be adding up at the gargoyle.  Managed to figure out the top sequence, so dropped in the final bolts.  Then worked it quite a bit on solo TR and managed to link from just past initial boulder crux to top.  maybe v7ish slab...  Then worked bottom crux.  Managed all of the moves, but it'll be really hard, maybe 20-25 feet of v11ish to the rest, then 15-20 feet of v7 slab. It'll go, but maybe not this year... This has me jugging up the the middle of the crux- https://www.instagram.com/p/BlogLRvn68h/?taken-by=kevin_goodman
T- Back out to Hatcher Pass. Met up with a friend to get on a sit to a new v9/10 we did last week.  Adds a hard v8 start into a low percentage v9/10 move.  Stuck the move twice, but not right, and I couldn't adjust.  So close, but no cigar.  Then convinced him to go clean and work a new line that I had been wanted to get on for 10+ years.  Built a landing, and got to work cleaning.  After all was done, the beta turned out amazing.  Very cool sequence up an amazing feature. I managed to fluff the ending three times... (My friend went back out while I was out of town and snaked the FA   Normally I wouldn't be too fussed, but this is perhaps the best v10 in Hatcher pass...  Mostly bummed I fluffed it. Here's video of another strong local kid doing it.https://www.instagram.com/p/Bnz1prhHrtZqz7GsGvf4PriH8QDUiO_ufHKok80/?taken-by=drummerfanatic1234

Good day of try hard, but no sending... 
F- Fly to Vancouver, then drive to whistler. Started getting a cold
S- Mtn Biking Whistler. Fighting cold
S- Mtn Biking Whistler. Fighting cold

Week 2
M- Mtn Biking Whistler in AM. Then down to Squamish to get on the egg.  It was still wet and humid, but this was my window so I tried.  Took a long time to get warmed up, and then I couldn't do more than a move without greasing off.
 Did all the move in crap conditions though, so that felt good.  Managed to send a consolation v10 called the seam.  Small sharp crimps, so more a function of pain tolerance than anything else   Still fighting cold
T-Mtn Bike Whistler
W- Fly home - was going to try to stay ad climb, but was so exhausted it would have been silly.  Fly home early. 
T-Started up a training class at the local gym, so did that in the evening.  tried to climb a bit during and after and felt like crap.
F-Mtn Bike 2 hrs
S-Some easy climbing work in AM, then short but good PM moonboard.  Decided to go back and check out some of the benchmarks.  Managed to repeat 10 v8 benchmarks all first go on the day.  felt a bit better.  crimping still felt off though. 
S-2 hr mtn bike. 

[shark]

There is a good chance that the Oak will dry out this week.

Now dry

[tomtom]

[shark]

More life-enhancing vids of Griffs and the Keel please

[spidermonkey09]

More life-enhancing vids of Griffs and the Keel please

Does this anti-beta count?

[Will Hunt]

More life-enhancing vids of Griffs and the Keel please

Does this anti-beta count?

Sickening levels of power notwithstanding, he starts with his hand halfway along the roof and seems to have his foot on the floor for the first couple of moves. Back around.

[spidermonkey09]

Sickening levels of power notwithstanding, he starts with his hand halfway along the roof and seems to have his foot on the floor for the first couple of moves. Back around.

Noticeably padless floor though. Got to get points for that. What are the 'rules' for where your hands start? He has them in the break/pockets at the back doesn't he?

I can't even fathom that sequence. Its repulsive.

[andy_e]

I miss climbing with Dave...

[tommytwotone]

Chris says hi

[tomtom]

Chris says hi

:D

[r-man]

More alternative beta. Go shoeless on the right foot, hook the pocket with your toes. Solves the irritating foot cam crux.

[tomtom]

More alternative beta. Go shoeless on the right foot, hook the pocket with your toes. Solves the irritating foot cam crux.

SANDBAG CLAXON unless you have leather feet..

 I tried that (on the suggestion of someone here  - was it you? ) and all that happened was I cut up my foot loads....  A nice loose fitting super-mocc worked well for me!