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Klubo Potenco 446 10 - 16 settembre 2018 (Read 8474 times)

tomtom

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Klubo Potenco 446 10 - 16 settembre 2018
September 16, 2018, 06:57:16 pm
I seem to start this every week... :/ oh well....

M: Stopped at Griffs on the way to work in Hull. Met up with Nai. He was struggling with Bovine, I was struggling with Ovine... Worked lots of variations - Nai seems to prefer the reaching up with the RH the bringing LH up to sloper - I could get the RH up, but bringing left across was nails so stuck to original/usual match slopers.. anyway no successes -

We: Anston on my way back to Manchester. Met up with Dolly. Feeling a bit ropey from a resurgent cold - but managed to gibberish my way up the Cookie. Tried the Rookie and Spider Crab Blues. The Rookie feels really really hard - I can get into the press/Gaston - but I’m then working bloody hard to keep my body on for any of the next moves. Feels waaaay harder than 7A+ to me (others may agree or not). SCB is fun though - but confusion on the first moves - up apprentice prow - but then do you bust out right from ONLY the hold you get from the start - or move up to the one (also large) hold above it as well - which makes it a bit easier.. that would be 7A+ into a 7A+ which would Shirley be 7B? Anyway....



Fri. Hoped to get out but felt crap with cold and sleep deprivation (cold and toddler) so did nothing...

Su: Griffs with Nai again. Progress. I did the first move on Ovine. (Sad but true). And we both made progress on later/latter moves.

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#1 Re: Klubo Potenco 446 10 - 16 settembre 2018
September 16, 2018, 08:17:54 pm
I seem to start this every week... :/ oh well....

You're doing a fine job, keep up the good work

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#2 Re: Klubo Potenco 446 10 - 16 settembre 2018
September 16, 2018, 08:36:10 pm
I'll join in this week Tom, so you're not alone

mon - Works after a Devon wedding on the weekend. Did the iron-bru circuit and a few of the easier murples, very enjoyable with a few pound-shop Hubble moves off big undercuts.
tue -
wed - Works, really busy and couldn't get started. I think once we get a new runaround I might go back to the Foundry/Wave. The works is just not a good place to be on a mid-week evening, I'd forgotten how rammed Sheffield is.
thu -
fri -
sat - Early doors at The Nook with Rankine, a couple of RPs on The Storm (7b+) and 3 RPs on The Lockless Monster (7c+) falling at the throw each time. I really rate this climb, all killer and no filler.
sun - The Nook again with James Oakes, unfortunately, it was seeping and very humid, still had a RP tickling the jug on Lockless but then fell off the start and called it quits. Oakes flashed it but said I rope dabbed him, so did it again. Honestly, the conditions were crap, not me, the conditions. Went to the cornice, pretty damp but glad to see Ted.

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#3 Re: Klubo Potenco 446 10 - 16 settembre 2018
September 16, 2018, 09:14:18 pm
Alright TT I’ll join in. Ovine is a proper 7B eh!?

This is my beta from the best go I had on it last week when I saw matt there. That how you’re trying it Tom?


M-
T-
W-
T-evening rubicon session. 6-8:30. Got the lamps out. There was barely anyone there, just me n me mate an one other. Bone dry conditions excellent not too hot not too cold so where on earth was everyone? No significant ascents to report. In fact I was amazingly crap.

Still can’t repeat things I all but flashed when I met TT there that time and he told me where bigger splash went. I can’t work out why so much crapness but blame it on a piss poor level of finger board commitment. I don’t know.

My mate wasn’t crap though. He did the porthole traverse into three tier test piece up the groove across the top down the crimpy one in the middle and started up the groove again. 8a route at least but what do I know?

F-light kettlebells, hollowbodies
S-5k jog. Took kids to the swimming pool. So much crapness. Like one lap and I was swallowing water. Shoulders on fire trying to keep up with the fat ladies doing breast stroke - you know, the ones wearing glasses who don’t get their hair wet. Did 6 laps in total. Made me feel good about that shocking rubicon sesh.
S-DOMS. Hour at the works (turns out that’s where everyone was), pinkles and fingerboarding up to +40kgs on small beastmakers. Trying to use non-cheaty half crimp on the big hold and my normal open drag on the small one. Trying, but probably still fooling myself, to use good form.

There are so many people at the works but so few people on rocks. It’s a right mystery.

I say it most weeks on here so I’ll say it again...I need to be more consistent. One fingerboard in a week is not enough to move anyone forward. And two kettlebells. And being just a bit heavier than I should be. If I could fix those three things I’m sure I could get back up bigger splash again. Seems weird, climbed *the proj* last month now I can’t get up my old warmups. Bouldering can be funny like that.

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#4 Re: Klubo Potenco 446 10 - 16 settembre 2018
September 16, 2018, 09:59:46 pm
I think once we get a new runaround I might go back to the Foundry/Wave. The works is just not a good place to be on a mid-week evening, I'd forgotten how rammed Sheffield is.

If you fancy indoor routes anytime over the winter I’m totally in the market for a partner Guy. That goes for any other Sheffield climbers reading this too.

Rehab Diaries week 4. Still got my daily home exercises going on.

M- Gym. 30 minutes on the bike, “Bosu ball” balancing before and after. Pleasantly surprised to find I can stand on the ball with my bad leg without touching the wall now.

T- Rest.

W- Gym. As Monday but with slightly different bike settings- I do the same duration each visit but make it a bit tougher each time.

T- Rest. Tired!

F- Rest.

S- Rock climbing. My true love. 24 weeks and 2 days since I thought I wouldn’t walk again. ;D Went to Bamford with my old mate Gaz and seconded four Severes- made noises all the way up each of them (Bamford Wall in particular has got a lot harder since the last time I soloed it...) but thoroughly enjoyed it. Such a great time of year for grit trad. This was the first time I could feel the nerve problem that affects my left big toe- using smaller holds and smears on that side is more difficult- but no other trouble apart from being very weak and tiring easily- talking like on the walk-in  :lol:. Carried a pair of 30m half ropes plus other standard cragging stuff (but none of the rack) to, from and around the crag but only really felt much from my back on the way back. :dance1:

S- Rest. Tired and sore from head to toe!

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#5 Re: Klubo Potenco 446 10 - 16 settembre 2018
September 16, 2018, 11:12:25 pm
If you fancy indoor routes anytime over the winter I’m totally in the market for a partner Guy. That goes for any other Sheffield climbers reading this too.

I'm keen to do some routes at the foundry occasionally, message me when you want to go

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#6 Re: Klubo Potenco 446 10 - 16 settembre 2018
September 16, 2018, 11:28:19 pm
M quick wave session in the evening, new problems to me and seems like a very hard set... Or I've hardly been inside either way I got shut down but in an enjoyable way
T evening run round Burbage. 7km or so
W tor, redpointed ring of fire: fourth session this season, two goes on call of nature afterwards but felt a bit battered. Great gig in Manchester in the evening
T moat buttress, tried drawbridge when the levee breaks down; proper peaky bouldery 7c didn't feel very close at all
F 6km road run
S moat buttress: drawbridge again much closer greased off move to lh Gaston on redpoint now done in two overlapping sections. Also tried great '7a+' two sheep to Lester to finish. Brilliant, despite sketchy bolt spacing and it being a sandbag.
S tor awful conditions tried call of nature again, got the post crux to top link wired, worked out most of the moves. 2 laps on sardine to finish, ridiculously humid and sunny: like wearing a weight belt!

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#7 Re: Klubo Potenco 446 10 - 16 settembre 2018
September 17, 2018, 09:23:17 am
Tom, thanks for keeping the ball rolling.

Mike, great news. You looked thrilled to bits in the photos on social media.

M - Shoulder stretches.
T - Fingerboard session: max. hangs., trying to increase time on 13mm. edges. Knee exercises: mini-squats, step-ups.
W - Knee exercises.
T - Shoulder exercises: side planks, horizontal rows, reverse flys, high angle rotator cuff work, stretches.
F - Knee exercises. Shoulder stretches.
S - Curbar, my favourite grit crag, with Hugo. Super day. As cheque says, great weather for moderate grit trad. Warmed up on the boulders and routelets around Black Nix Wall. Crimp on Last Light (6c) felt big and positive but I was distinctly lacking in pull. Led Soyuz, Apollo and Dead Bay Crack, I must have done some of these in the distant past but have no record or recollection, all good stern traditional challenges. H onsighted Moon Walk and Moon Crack with no fuss at all. Great to see. Had a play on Art of White Hat Wearing.  :no:
S - Family day. Shoulder exercises. Upset stomach so sacked off the fingerboard.

A good week. Knee tolerated the scrambles around the base of Curbar and some 2D climbing, shoulder feels 85% there. As I’ve noted before, fingers feel stronger but I can’t make progress. I need to start moving upwards as well as just hanging. 

Plan: consumer survey of some of the recent London bouldering wall openings.

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#8 Re: Klubo Potenco 446 10 - 16 settembre 2018
September 17, 2018, 09:32:05 am
That sounds like a meaty day at Curbar for someone who's been in and out of action with shoulder, knee, etc  :punk:

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#9 Re: Klubo Potenco 446 10 - 16 settembre 2018
September 17, 2018, 09:40:57 am
Two weeks as have been away in Mallorca.

03/09 - 09/09
M:
T: Arch. Quite a long session (3 hrs) but a heavy gravity day. Lots of eating and drinking leading to a heavy feel. Lots of circuit problems including some harder colours (heard they're soft). A bit of board climbing but the moon is so badly built with a corner in the way of the low-right sit-starts and a raised platform meaning the first moves are easier but v dabby. Finished with circuit board and then some rings
W:
T:
F:
S: Cala Barques. Warmed bu flashing Fortuna 6a+ and Hercules 6c. Then went to the second cave and flashed Bisexual 7a and Metrosexual 7a+. Fell off the top move of Transexual 7b a couple of times - good first day
S:Cala Barques. Greasy, grim conditions. Just did the 6b warm-up in the first cave

10/09 - 16/09
M: Caimari Sport climbing. Did Colgao 7b 1st RP - amazing route. Played on a couple of other things then finished the day on Penthouse Guru 7A boulder, vid below:

T: Cala Mitjana. Flashed Illuminations 6b+ then fell off New Forms 6b+ which was much harder. Big swell and a big swim made it difficult to get out - bit of a bashing on the rocks. Then went and flashed Rich Bitch 7a before heading over to Diablo. Tried Afroman 7b and got up to the techy traverse on flash go but too emotionally and physically burned out to give it another go
W:
T: Alaro. Buf! Busy so tried To Pa Ti 7a+, no way top 50, 2 stars at best. Didn't get on with it then the sun came out and got too hot. Went to S'Estret where I just O/Sed a 6b+
F: Cala Barques. 1st Cave did 6b warm-up then down to Block. Flashed Sixty's Silver Surfer 7a, Big XXL 7a and Drop Shadow Diseases 6c+. Then went over to second cave and put Transexual 7b to bed as the sun was setting - came off the top move 5 times in total!
S: Cala Barques. Conditions not amazing. Did a couple of mid 6s before trying a rarely tried 7b direct finish which was v greasy :(
S:

Chilled trip to Mallorca, maybe not as good as the hype. But I did have bad conditions with stormy seas and a lot of grease...

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#10 Re: Klubo Potenco 446 10 - 16 settembre 2018
September 17, 2018, 10:29:12 am
Goal: new Font 7anything by end of 2018


M - contracted little one's cold, meh. Ibu / Lemsip / caffiene / sugar / carbs / Night Nurse stack.
T- as Tues
W - session with Tim at the Works, with dregs of cold clinging on. Surprisingly positive - think I'm out of the rehab phase since knacking my shoulder back at the end of 2017.
T - nowt
F - nowt
S - went to Depot, but just on a time-killing mission for a coffee with little one
S - AM kid's party at a soft play centre, PM childcare - did a fair bit of walking with Clem on my back which is good for fitness if nothing else




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#11 Re: Klubo Potenco 446 10 - 16 settembre 2018
September 17, 2018, 10:29:30 am
Power Club

Mon - barbell complex: clean and press x5, overhead walk 30", deadlift x10, bentover row x10 all x5 40 kg. Farmer's, 30/30 x11 90 kg. Abs. Phew.
Tue - rest.
Wed - ab wheel, strong but a bit tired. Fingerboarding, various hangs. Back3 on 1,5 cm edge taking off 15 kg. Weights.
Thu - boxing bag. Back to 30 degrees... Light weights.
Fri -  pull ups, dumbbell complex, triceps planks, abs.
Sat - rest.
Sun - rest.

nai

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#12 Re: Klubo Potenco 446 10 - 16 settembre 2018
September 17, 2018, 11:13:11 am
Nice ones Toby, duncan & cheque.

M Griffs for the first time with TT. Flitted between Ovine & Bovine. Really struggled on the drop-knee move to the sharp ear.  While TT demonstrated it with seeming ease I just couldn't find the right position.  Did better on Ovine, managed to hold the pinch and get the LH crimp.

T nowt

W Blew out TT & 1D to return to Griffs. Practiced drop knees on my board beforehand and worked out the optimal placement for the other foot to facilitate a lock-in, took three different right shoes but still couldn't get anything to work. Eventually did the move with a deep rockover and a nervy prod for the hold but didn't fancy my chances of keepingf my tips if I kept trying it like that.
Tried Ovine briefly but my hand greased off teh sloper and I landed on my head wrenching my shoulder and neck.

T Mild whiplash. Went fishing.

F nowt, desperately checked weather ahead of a family-free weekend.

S The Special K, only it was like the milk had been left on too long.  First time on a rope in 2 months, got three bolts up Directissima before deciding my knot wasn't right (it was fine) and clipping into retie.  Partners project had a single wet hold so I went up to see if was doable, managed to bypass the wet hold and after he'd had a go I went for the redpoint. After an absolute battle including several skin of teeth slaps I ended up at the final move but was too spent.
This would be great if it wasn't only 7a+ which is generally an onsight or easy RP grade.  After that I was pretty much spent, dogged up Sticky Wicket pretty much bolt to bolt pumping so badly between sections that I could barely hold the quickdraws to clip.
Dunno what it is about Kilnsey that turns me into a total punter every time I go there, I'd gone hoping to complete one of the WIPS I tried last time but came home with two new ones.

S Griffs. I was in sub-optimal condition for bouldering, tired and forearms still feeling it from Saturday.  Same again on Bovine.  More consistent on Ovine, now going for the RH crimp, feels like it will be possible with a bt more commitment.


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#13 Re: Klubo Potenco 446 10 - 16 settembre 2018
September 17, 2018, 11:19:53 am
Really struggled on the drop-knee move to the sharp ear. 

I don't know how tall you are but if you're less tall than TomTom (likely, he's towards the end of a bell curve) different beta may be better. For example, I lock the slot, flag right foot under left, with my right foot on the nobble that you're probably already using.

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#14 Re: Klubo Potenco 446 10 - 16 settembre 2018
September 17, 2018, 11:22:38 am
S The Special K....

This would be great if it wasn't only 7a+ which is generally an onsight or easy RP grade.  After that I was pretty much spent, dogged up Sticky Wicket pretty much bolt to bolt pumping so badly between sections that I could barely hold the quickdraws to clip.

Weren't you on Ground Effect, that's 7b isn't it - so perhaps not that disastrous!  And I don't think anyone ever has an easy time on Sticky Wicket; the top section of that route has special forearm sapping powers (perhaps due to a trace mineral in the rock that poisons muscles, or maybe a voodoo curse).

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#15 Re: Klubo Potenco 446 10 - 16 settembre 2018
September 17, 2018, 11:32:44 am
Weren't you on Ground Effect, that's 7b isn't it

Not with much any enthusiasm.  When my partner suggested it and I had a look I had flashbacks to trying to leave the ground on Frankie. Wouldn't have tried it if he hadn't lowered off half way.  I'm not counting that as one a WIP.
Sticky Wicket did come as a shock, I've had designs on flashing that since my last visit but that seems laughable now

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#16 Re: Klubo Potenco 446 10 - 16 settembre 2018
September 17, 2018, 11:38:22 am
Really struggled on the drop-knee move to the sharp ear. 

I don't know how tall you are but if you're less tall than TomTom (likely, he's towards the end of a bell curve) different beta may be better. For example, I lock the slot, flag right foot under left, with my right foot on the nobble that you're probably already using.

Quite a bt less tall than Tom, and most people.

Do you mean flag Left under RIght with Right rocking in onto the obvious high (to me) nobble

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#17 Re: Klubo Potenco 446 10 - 16 settembre 2018
September 17, 2018, 12:04:01 pm
Yes I do  :slap:



It's the foot that TT gets here. I face slightly rightwards as well, so I can properly lock the slot

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#18 Re: Klubo Potenco 446 10 - 16 settembre 2018
September 17, 2018, 12:38:54 pm
That's the foothold I'm using but can't fold myself into it like that.
I put toe on top and rock right over it then sort of wave at the hold while I peel off backwards.
I'll experiment with facing right and flagging next time.

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#19 Re: Klubo Potenco 446 10 - 16 settembre 2018
September 17, 2018, 01:07:59 pm
Nai - I’m the same height as you I think and don’t drop my knee at all. 170cm. 


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#20 Re: Klubo Potenco 446 10 - 16 settembre 2018
September 17, 2018, 02:03:25 pm
Yep, that's how I do it (except for the last move I don't move my feet, I just welly off the right foot in the same place). Worth spending an extra few milliseconds to get the slot really well to aid the lock. I have my forefinger and back three split to make it a bit better.

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#21 Re: Klubo Potenco 446 10 - 16 settembre 2018
September 17, 2018, 02:07:38 pm
Skinny fingered choughs the lot of ya.  :P

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#22 Re: Klubo Potenco 446 10 - 16 settembre 2018
September 17, 2018, 02:08:52 pm
Ah yes, I remember you posting this now but Google hasn't been returning it in search results.
That's pretty much what I'm trying, must keep hips into the wall and experiment keeping left foot lower/flagged.

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#23 Re: Klubo Potenco 446 10 - 16 settembre 2018
September 17, 2018, 02:10:52 pm
Skinny fingered choughs the lot of ya.  :P

I tried those things out left. Ming

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#24 Re: Klubo Potenco 446 10 - 16 settembre 2018
September 17, 2018, 02:50:33 pm
Do we need to put a request in to the mods to change the name of this thread to "Griff's Club"???

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#25 Re: Klubo Potenco 446 10 - 16 settembre 2018
September 17, 2018, 03:04:06 pm
we need whoever's running this club to keep order.

"if you want to discuss Griffs gentlemen perhaps you could do that in your own time. Now, has everyone done the AeroCap I set last week?"

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#26 Re: Klubo Potenco 446 10 - 16 settembre 2018
September 17, 2018, 04:39:12 pm
I read this entire thread sometimes and have no idea what is being discussed!

Had a very relaxed week with no redpoint stress.

M - rest.

T - Depot. Tried to remember how to boulder again and very much enjoyed just doing some problems rather than doing 4x4s on the 30. Established I'm pretty weak and core has gone to pieces.

W - Ilkley trad. Did a few nice bits.

T - Depot. Improvement from Tuesday, starting to remember how to move dynamically. A few purples got done, which is my usual 'first or second go' circuit when in the middle of bouldering season.

F - rest.

S - Rylstone. Loooong walk up! Bit soggy on arrival but dried out well. Some great highballs on scrittly grit and a brilliant 7a/+ next to Lanny Bassham. Amazing looking problem that. Pub afterwards; good day. Psyched for moorland grit.

S - Malham. Wasted after the previous day. Arrived to find the left wall gopping. Martin remained optimistic but I wasn't convinced. He was proved right as it dried significantly through the day. Mescalito had a lot of soggy holds but Martin clearly had it dialled and did it first RP; good effort. I made it to the run out before running out of gas. If it dries properly I think I'd do it but I hate dodging the damp patches. Might dry out properly this year but seems unlikely.

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#27 Re: Klubo Potenco 446 10 - 16 settembre 2018
September 17, 2018, 11:13:52 pm
we need whoever's running this club to keep order.
"if you want to discuss Griffs gentlemen perhaps you could do that in your own time. Now, has everyone done the AeroCap I set last week?"
:lol:
It is surely highly appropriate discussion for UkBouldering? After all it's not called Yorkshire sport dot com is it?  ;)
Peak sport routes are mostly boulder problems where you have to drag a string, and therefore eligible topics.

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#28 Re: Klubo Potenco 446 10 - 16 settembre 2018
September 17, 2018, 11:19:54 pm
11.1-3 average 156.3lb up 0.7lb - fourth week in succession of incremental gains - not good ones  :(

M. Morning. Tor with Tom Smart. Cooler, low humidity, sporadically blustery. When wind up was mint. Went on Anger Management which I’ve not been on for two months. Dogging go felt much stronger on the moves. Decided to try redpointing. First Redpoint got to middle of headwall clipped bolt and fell going for left sidehold pinch. Second redpoint pulled all the stops and with some power screams got higher still with right hand on Gaston trying to bridge right foot up. Neither equalling previous high point but overall my best session redpointing on it as I’ve not got that high twice in a session. Excited. Arranged to go back Friday with Tom

T.

W. AM. Cold. Cornice with Ted. CC to warm up. Dogged up RW and experimented various edges for left foot to go off rail for undercut pocket. All similar. 3 redpoints. First tickled undercut pocket. 2nd failed matching the rail. 3rd touched pocket. Heartily sick of the route. I’ve made such a meal of it. Notes for next time. Wear blancos. Use higher foothold. Force myself to crimp rather than drag the rail. Don’t try to milk the kneebar rests as it hammers core for matching the rail. Ted rinsed Love Amongst the Butterflies - made it look somewhere between 6c and 7b - no harder
Eve. Fingerboard till late Best score 12mm edge +10kg 6secs (PB 9secs in Jan)

T. AM Physio with Louise  :whip:

F.Morning. Tor met Tom Smart. Cool but not much wind. Working go on Anger Management. Sussed out a micro beta improvement on boulder problem finish. Connies started to deteriorate - became warmer and drizzly. One decent redpoint go to middle of headwall but the holds had become a bit greasy. Moved on to Bens and had 4 burns and managed to get through to the kneebar on the last go and as usual fell off setting up for the karate kick. Long day. Exhausted by the end.

S.

S. PM Fingerboard. Similar session and results to weds but a few more hangs. I set of assisted 1armers 3 on right 2 on left. 6x115kg deadlifts

Disappointing week overall. Need some confidence building success in my life. Biting the bullet and going up to Malham this week. Strong chance the Oak will be wet and/or connies will be shit. More positively I am scarcely drinking. Just about keeping the faith
« Last Edit: September 17, 2018, 11:37:42 pm by shark »

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#29 Re: Klubo Potenco 446 10 - 16 settembre 2018
September 18, 2018, 10:19:52 am
we need whoever's running this club to keep order.
"if you want to discuss Griffs gentlemen perhaps you could do that in your own time. Now, has everyone done the AeroCap I set last week?"
:lol:
It is surely highly appropriate discussion for UkBouldering?
Yes, in the beta section!
I think that Nai was referring to this aspect. As of late many PC threads end up in long beta discussions that are useful only for some.
Moreover, it becomes harder then to look for beta on the forum, because there is not a dedicated thread for a problem or route, so you have to either scroll many PC threads trying to remember who went where and when, or do a word search trying to remember which swearwords were used in that particular occasion...
Anyway, I am back to serious fingerboarding and couldn't care less about ze rockz.

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#30 Re: Klubo Potenco 446 10 - 16 settembre 2018
September 18, 2018, 03:27:33 pm
we need whoever's running this club to keep order.
"if you want to discuss Griffs gentlemen perhaps you could do that in your own time. Now, has everyone done the AeroCap I set last week?"
:lol:
It is surely highly appropriate discussion for UkBouldering?
Yes, in the beta section!

Inevitable that if three people posting on a thread are trying the same thing that discussion will take place. That's the joy of UKB threads. And PC is supposed to be about help and encouragement isn't it?
Anyway, I promise it will be barely mentioned, by me at least, next week

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#31 Re: Klubo Potenco 446 10 - 16 settembre 2018
September 18, 2018, 03:28:50 pm
To be fair to nai, he didn't explicitly ask for beta, we foisted unsolicited advice on him.

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#32 Re: Klubo Potenco 446 10 - 16 settembre 2018
September 18, 2018, 03:43:45 pm
Inevitable that if three people posting on a thread are trying the same thing that discussion will take place. That's the joy of UKB threads. And PC is supposed to be about help and encouragement isn't it?

:agree: Griff's will be wet again soon anyway.

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#33 Re: Klubo Potenco 446 10 - 16 settembre 2018
September 18, 2018, 03:47:54 pm
:agree: Griff's will be wet again soon anyway.

Good :)

I need a change...

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#34 Re: Klubo Potenco 446 10 - 16 settembre 2018
September 18, 2018, 11:53:18 pm
And PC is supposed to be about help and encouragement isn't it?
Ahahahaha you must be kidding! Not in a million years! Not on UKB!
Maybe on a forum on a foreign planet where the rocks are always dry, the holds always clean, and unicorns fly around singing praises to your technique while you flash yet another 8c.
No.
This. Is. UKB.
Land of the dire. Land of the primitive. Land of the offensive.
PC is a testosterone filled gym buried in the bowels of Guantanamo or Alcatraz. You have to earn your posts here.
It's the thread of humilation and unnecessary sarcasm, showboating, false modesty and anger. It's the secret room in which everything can be said. It's the dark cell in which you want to lock your weaker friends, so that noone can see them with you anymore.
It's the land where a tenth of a mm shaved from a deadhang edge is more important than the baptism of your daughter.
It's the only serious climbing thread in the entire world.
No carrots here. Only sticks.

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#35 Re: Klubo Potenco 446 10 - 16 settembre 2018
September 19, 2018, 08:10:07 am
This. Is. UKB.
Land of the dire. Land of the primitive. Land of the offensive.

No carrots here. Only sticks.

Well that's the new T-shirt slogan sorted if/when someone gets round to it...

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#36 Re: Klubo Potenco 446 10 - 16 settembre 2018
September 19, 2018, 01:05:20 pm
And PC is supposed to be about help and encouragement isn't it?
PC is a testosterone filled gym buried in the bowels of Guantanamo or Alcatraz. You have to earn your posts here.
It's the thread of humilation and unnecessary sarcasm, showboating, false modesty and anger. It's the secret room in which everything can be said. It's the dark cell in which you want to lock your weaker friends, so that noone can see them with you anymore.
It's the land where a tenth of a mm shaved from a deadhang edge is more important than the baptism of your daughter.
It's the only serious climbing thread in the entire world.
No carrots here. Only sticks.

I'm not sure I recognise your vision of Power Club Nibs, but it certainly makes me feel a lot cooler to post in it. 8)

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#37 Re: Klubo Potenco 446 10 - 16 settembre 2018
September 19, 2018, 01:16:26 pm
Here was me thinking power club was a celebration of dismal failure with a hint of occasional hard-won but fleeting success?

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#38 Re: Klubo Potenco 446 10 - 16 settembre 2018
September 20, 2018, 09:48:37 am
:agree: Griff's will be wet again soon anyway.

Good :)

I need a change...

...back to foisting unsolicited beta for problems at Anston then?  ;)

Whilst we are on the subject of beta and to stray pretty far  :off: ... if anyone can tell me a good weak persons method of doing the crux of call of nature at the tor I'd be more than grateful. Shameless beta fishing.... :fishing:

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#39 Re: Klubo Potenco 446 10 - 16 settembre 2018
September 20, 2018, 11:33:36 am
Being tall seems to make things somewhat easier

From the backhand clip:
RH to crescent crimp
LH gnarly gaston
RH back down to sidepull (née backhand)
build feet up, RF on matchstick edge, LF on one of a few nubbins out left
Deadpoint RH to sika
LF step straight through outside edge into good hold above matchsticks, RF dabs/flags somewhere out right
stretch LH across for sharp crimp
RF on smear out right, fold LF o/s edge into crescent crimp
adjust RF up onto slightly better edge
pop and open out to square-on going LH for incut.

That's the crux, next few moves are tricky so make sure you have them and the top wired.

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#40 Re: Klubo Potenco 446 10 - 16 settembre 2018
September 22, 2018, 11:40:56 pm
Being tall seems to make things somewhat easier

From the backhand clip:
RH to crescent crimp
LH gnarly gaston
RH back down to sidepull (née backhand)
build feet up, RF on matchstick edge, LF on one of a few nubbins out left
Deadpoint RH to sika
LF step straight through outside edge into good hold above matchsticks, RF dabs/flags somewhere out right
stretch LH across for sharp crimp
RF on smear out right, fold LF o/s edge into crescent crimp
adjust RF up onto slightly better edge
pop and open out to square-on going LH for incut.

That's the crux, next few moves are tricky so make sure you have them and the top wired.

Cheers Ian that's different from what I was trying. Sounds better too. Have you done it? I can do rh on sika hold to the top every time, without feeling too bad so optimistically reckon just got to get through the crux from the floor

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#41 Re: Klubo Potenco 446 10 - 16 settembre 2018
September 23, 2018, 05:29:41 pm
Yes I did it a couple of years back. That sika can feel grim when the rest of the route is ok and seems to retain dampness longer so it's quite conditions dependent I think. Getting that in nick and being really solid on that move is pretty crucial.


 

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