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Multipitch/Trad in Europe October/November (Read 356 times)

lukas_s

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Multipitch/Trad in Europe October/November
September 16, 2018, 09:31:10 am
Hi,
I'm reading on here quite a lot, but usually don't post on forums but now I need the help of all the good knowlegde on here.

I have two month off work to travel with my girlfriend in October and November. :dance1:
The originall idea was to just go sport climbing starting in France and travelling further south to spain with the wheather, as many great areas should be in conditions. Now I hurt my middle-finger a bit, and I'm not sure if it is up for a long sportclimbing trip.
So as an alternative I'have looked into multipitch/trad areas that should be in condition during this time of the year in France or Spain.
Can anyone recommend anything meeting the following criteria?
-trad over fully bolted on multipitch
-cracks over faceclimbs
-interesting even if its physically not at your limit

I live in Austria and the general direction of travel will be towards France and further to Spain. So far I've come up with the following:
-Annot: has anyone been? the pictures look amazing
-Vall'de Orco: I have already been and its amazing, but I guess it  could get cold/rainy quite fast this time of the year, and I have already done a lot of the easier crack climbs
-Verdon: Probably the obvious choice!
-Val'de Mello: (I know its in Italy   ;D): Is October a good time to go for routes like Luna nascente etc.?

Cheers, and thanks a lot
Lukas

jwi

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In Spain Montrebei, Peña Montañesa or Ordesa might fit your billing. More fingers than cracks on all these though, but all interesting, multipitch and more trad than sport.

I haven't been to Annot so sorry, no help. Verdon is awesome of course, and there are plenty of cracks to do.

kingholmesy

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The Verdon is awesome. I’ve only been once but would really recommend it. It’s not that “traddy” though. Most of the routes I did were fully bolted (albeit sometimes a little run out).  I think I only used my rack on Ulla and even then I only placed a couple of bits.

jwi

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Ula is currently completely without bolts, except the belays and a few on the first pitch.

There are plenty of stuff to do that requires a medium rack. E.g. L'estamporanée has two three pitons on the entire route and is supposedly very good (it's in Parois de Legende) (I've heard that a rack up to camalot #6 nice to have, but I doubt the Remy brothers had something of that size in 1974 ...).

i.munro

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I've only seen the Annot stuff from the ground while there for bouldering but my impression was that they mostly follow long straight parallel-sided cracks so I guess a big rack of cams would be in order.
I suspect it might be very cold there in Nov and as I was there in the summer all the climbs that  I saw were in the shade.

I know there's a bunch of "terrain d'aventure" stuff in the Calanques but only from looking in the guide to decide which areas to avoid :-)

lukas_s

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Thanks for the answers!
Verdon is certainly on the list as I have never been and its such an iconic place.
Any must do routes? (depending on style/gear I would say up to 7a - a bit harder if fully bolted/easy to protect, easier if very runout/poor gear. Easier is fine as well)
In Spain Montrebei, Peña Montañesa or Ordesa might fit your billing. More fingers than cracks on all these though, but all interesting, multipitch and more trad than sport.

I haven't been to Annot so sorry, no help. Verdon is awesome of course, and there are plenty of cracks to do.

I had a quick look a these, and it looks amazing. Montrebei and Peña Montañesa should still be possible in the midlle of november?
Any must do routes? (grade wise - see above)


I've only seen the Annot stuff from the ground while there for bouldering but my impression was that they mostly follow long straight parallel-sided cracks so I guess a big rack of cams would be in order.
I suspect it might be very cold there in Nov and as I was there in the summer all the climbs that  I saw were in the shade.

Parallel sided cracks actually sounds very attractive. Maybe something to do a the start of the trip. We have a triple rack of most cam-sizes between the two of us. That should be enough, no? Now the question only is: is it worth bringing that many cams for one area... :-\

jwi

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In Verdon Ula and L'estamporanée should be on top of everyones list for cracks. For the latter, a double set of friends up to camalot #4, and apparently a #5 and a #6 comes in handy (I haven't done it, you should check french version of camptocamp for gear beta).

For the bolted stuff, here's the list I send to someone asking for routes in the same grade range, in order of difficulty: Rivière d'argent, Série Limitée, Ange en Décomposition, Caqous, Surveiller et punir, Marche du temps, Démon, Rideaux du Gwendal > Pichenibul > Cthulu, Alix punk de Vergons, Surface, Il gioco di prestigio, etc etc. For Gwendal, bring some wires to aid the crux pitch or move it up to level with Il gioco... in difficulty.

Montrebei should be perfect in November. I've only done Globeros in Alaska (7a+), the crux pitch is almost entirely protected by pitons and bolts, the rest ... not so much.

For unclear reasons, I've never been to Peña Montañesa, but my friends go there mostly in winter (but I've seen fbposts this week asking for partners to go there)