[submaximal gains]

What are some of the best write ups of climbing a route you've read?

I particularly like Charlie Woodburn's description of climbing 'Harder, Faster'

"As I flow through the sequence of moves, I am only partially aware of what I am doing. My thoughts are hazy, in a self-induced state of obedience. The body leads and the mind follows, always one step behind, always in a state of humble acknowledgement, registering the present as it flows, unaware of future or past, free from the savage responsibility of thought. Fear and thought are synonymous and consequently the most frightening part of the ascent coincides with the only moment of dominance my mind has: the decision to go. Concentration is of the essence, the act of forcibly stupefying the senses and allowing myself to follow the drift of my own body. As I climb, I feel as though I am leaving myself behind, and by giving myself up to the movement of the rock, by concentrating myself into the subtle tensions the moves require, I am able to escape the obligation to think, and this, more than anything else, brings me a measure of peace."

Source: https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/charlie-woodburn-gritstone-masterpiece-harder-faster-black-rocks.html

and Dave Thomas' description of soloing Caveman which was in the climber's club journal, but I can't find a link to it online.

[Teaboy]

I squire liked Gresh’s description of Lexicon but it doesn’t seem to have gone down so well with others in the community!

[Catcheemonkey]

Johnny Dawes looking back at Indian Face has always stayed with me:

“It has the essence of the great materials. Oak, whales, the layout of stars. Hang on tight and stay awake, and alive, and like passing through the metre thick rings of Saturn the scale runs through you, sieving off remnants of the mundane and leaving a new colour that has no physical counterpoint.”

https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/facing_the_indian_by_johnny_dawes-5754

[Fiend]

https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/facing_the_indian_by_johnny_dawes-5754

Not read that before, pretty nice, although the bit you quoted is my least favourite part.

I do like Dawes beta description of The Meltdown, especially then watching the video of Caff on it, because it all made sense and really does climb that way.