[monkoffunk]

Sod BMI, use a mirror and common sense.

I made some marginal improvements to my BMI by realising that I was 1cm taller than I had previously thought.

Seriously though, my biggest weight loss from 82+kg to around 74kg coincided with my biggest grade jump since starting out (font 6C sometime requiring more than one session, to 7A flash). That also consided with more consistent training and just being generally healthier. Now I’m around 77kg and 7A+ maybe 7B.

Weight obviously contributed, no doubt lugging 5kgs extra up a problem makes it harder, but I think the way I feel with a certain diet and lifestyle (generally healthy and no alcohol) maybe contributes more to all round ability to train, stay motivated etc. 

Obviously goes without saying how that weight fluctuation is so context specific in the effect you get seeing that people with a similar height(183cm)/weight profile are climbing across the grade spectrum, and I’m not going to diet my way to 8A, but definitely have been guilty in the past of lending it more credence in my mind then actually going out and training hard. I’ll drop a few kilos for winter, but I’m not going to starve myself so I don’t have energy to pull on.

[Bradders]

Having thought about it further it seems to only be my finger strength that diminishes when I diet. I don't notice this drop off in larger muscles - even in terms of absolute strength I.e. not just bodyweight exercises.

Before climbing I never had problems gaining strength (260kg deadlift, 140kg bench press), it just seems to be fingers, which to me highlights that it's probably more of a training issue in that I'm doing something wrong!

I use the half crimp for hangboard training but I do realise that I massively over rely on full crimping while climbing to the point of it being about double as strong as any other grip. Perhaps I should ban myself from the full crimp for a while.

I think it's really important to remember that finger strength develops so flipping slowly in the vast majority of people. Given how long you've been climbing and your current grade range, you're basically through the level where an element of muscular strength and quickly developing basic technique will see you improve, and you're now into a zone where things slow down significantly!

The key in my experience is to avoid pushing it too hard too fast and remember that consistent, progressive training, eating high quality foods and regular climbing practice are far more important than trying to go really hard all the time or trying to drop weight in an unsustainable way. Quality over quantity all the way.

On crimping, Steve Bechtel (look him up, total legend) actually recommends training in the full crimp position for the exact reason that when things start to get really tough most people default to it. A good idea might be to vary your grip position when hangboarding and include a limited amount of full crimp work, and then when climbing try to force yourself to use other positions and literally drop off if you can't do a particular move without crimping. I've certainly had some success like that.

[tomtom]

I’m approaching the view that the half crimp is evil.

I used to use a mix of OH and full crimp - but in the last year/2 years started training FB’ing using the half crimp. Mainly because most people (on here) seemed to say it was the best way to train finger strength. I find that doing/using it I get quite a bit of low level pain in the first knuckle (from palm) PIP - mainly in the forefinger.

This coincides with the Schweizer and Bärtschi figure in this article in UKC - where the two bones are clashing and there is a big red circle..  https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/international_rock_climbing_research_congress_in_chamonix_-_a_summary-11220

(Sorry can’t post images for some reason)

Just a bit of a pet theory at the moment... probably should go in another thread...

[SA Chris]

Seriously though, my biggest weight loss from 82+kg to around 74kg coincided with my biggest grade jump since starting out (font 6C sometime requiring more than one session, to 7A flash). That also considred with more consistent training and just being generally healthier.

Correlation / Causation? Over what period was the weight loss / improvement?

[monkoffunk]

Correlation / Causation? Over what period was the weight loss / improvement?

Yeah well exactly. A lot of confounding factors.

Went something like this:

April 2015 - Font trip on minimal to no climbing let alone anything resembling training whilst working hugely unenjoyable job in A&E. Two 6Cs one in two sessions.
Big hiatus after this. No diet moderation.

November 2015 - just about managed to climb Devonshire Cream 7a at Ansteys, only sport route of the year. New job for a few months, happier, new found motivation. Started regular indoor bouldering again. Very undertrained, some sessions resulting in DOMS lasting until next session. Stayed consistent though.

Jan 2016 - started new diet, minimal to no alcohol, no shit, lots of vegetbles, sweet potato, lean meat etc. Weight post Christmas binge about 82kg. Dropped several kg quite quickly, first week even, probably water weight. Felt far far better without the booze though, trained more, less excuses.

Around 20th Feb 2016 - Font trip, did first 7A. 8 7A total that trip. Probably weighed ball park 73-74kg

March 2016 - French 7c in a session. Still my maximum grade though, partly though lack of trying due to more focusing on bouldering, of which max grade is just 7B at a push and not many of those.

April 2016 - 72.8kg. Minimum weight, have more muscle since then and a bit chubs right now for sure.