[Oldmanmatt]

I'm mainly comparing drag to crimp at the mo. Most peoples max pull is way over body weight (trained people, I mean). I just put a bracket above the strain gauge to attach a timer to replace my stopwatch.


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[duncan]

Seems to be hitting the spot, I'll be interested to see if it has any impact on climbing.

Three months of finger training like this and nothing else (shoulder issue) seems to have had a marked effect on my finger strength when climbing. Worth considering if you can't do conventional hangs for non-finger-related reasons.

(Caveat: I've previously done very little fingerboarding which makes me an especially good candidate for this kind of focused but non-specific training).

[tomtom]

Interesting... details details please

How much are you lifting now? Two hands at once? Body position? Grip type?

[duncan]

One arm at a time, 18mm edge, three different grips: half crimp, open hand, and three finger drag. A  fairly standard strength programme: 90-95% of my absolute maximum weight for each grip, 10 second hold, around 3 minute rest between each go. Typically 3-5 sets but stopping as soon as I couldn't manage the full 10 seconds.

[duncan]

The main thing I was aiming for was to try hard and do so regularly. The advantage of being unable to do much else is it becomes much easier to stick to a programme like this.