[tomtom]

Cheers Haydn & Cofe - pb has 'original' Bovine listed there.. so knew about that but not the other stuff.

Interesting beta going again to the sidepull - though that is a way higher than the slopers #iamweak

I'll give it a blast. Though I quite enjoy the my hand will not pop headgame at the moment.. a classic 'trust and relax' move... which I'm shit at..

[haydn jones]

you go again once the heel is on. It is definitely easier this way

[Murph]

Thanks Haydn, fascinating. 

I wonder what the full bovine list would look like....

1. SS to large flat hold. Both hands in slot, RH to sidepull/pinch, jug finish. 7A?
2. SS...RH in slot, LH on crimp, RH to sidepull/pinch, jug finish. 7A+?
3. SS...to crimps and dyno to jug finish. 7B? Sounds brick hard for 7B. I think this is in Escaping Norfolk but RH was in slot and they took 7B+.
4. SS.... and go high into Ovine (that what’s meant by finishing along Griffs?). 7B+
5. SS.... and go low into Ovine. Lovine 7C. 

PLN really isn’t very helpful for working out where these things go as it looks like it is describing a further two lines that are distinct to the ones above. It gives Bovine as “...make a big move to a large flat hold. Finish slightly left (virtually on Ovine) on crimps.” So it finishes on crimps....but which crimps exactly? The picture doesn’t offer many clues as there aren’t any crimps where the arrow ends. And why would anyone end a problem there? Regardless, finishing on the jug is superior.

It also describes a “more independent finish gains the slot out right before finishing direct on crimps” 7B. So that’s with or without the slot out right and both finishing on independent crimps. I’ve no idea what this lot could mean and I’ve been there a dozen times!

And thanks for the Ovine beta. I can attest that that is much easier that way though no doubt also brings the grade down!

[haydn jones]

1. I would give 7A+
2&3 are eliminates/bad beta
4. Yes this is original ovine 7B+
5. My problem

[tomtom]

And thanks for the Ovine beta. I can attest that that is much easier that way though no doubt also brings the grade down!

Did you get on it today then murph?

[Murph]

Haydn - thanks, and cool problem. That’s next on the list. Well, maybe not next but quite high up.

TT - yeah man, just a social visit. Nearly got it. Next time etc. 

[measles23]

In the vid he's using the old (better) undercut which broke off a few years ago.

Well feck me that explains why I find it so brick now! You can see an extra block in the vid that’s gone..
This is still how I do it tho as I’m not fond of the flat crimp...

Haydn’s bob on with bumping right hand up to the little side pull, while LH still in the slot - that way you don’t have to do a move off the sloper, which is beginning to get polished..

Other possible beta:
1. With both hands on the slopers, go LH to the little side-pull, then up
2. LH sloper, RH little side-pull, lurch LH up to pinch the big undercut and RH to flatly crimp
3. LH sloper, RH little side-pull, RH up to pinch the big undercut, bump LH to side-pull, flick RH to undercut the undercut - top..

Also when things are greasy you can use the middle hold of the sloper complex, which is less polished..
Endless fun!

Yup been told off for not doing the first move before, although it’s about British 5A with the correct feet and seems a bit pointless..

Great history on bovine Haydn

[abarro81]

No 2 has the the option of a kneescum too for those inclined that way

[36chambers]

Just to add even more variation into the mix. I found it much easier to hold the high RH crimp on Ovine as a big fat pinch.

[Bradders]

After all that I'm only really clear on one thing; you all spend way too much time at Griff's... 

[duncan]

Thanks for the commiserations. The timing is a bit frustrating, but at least there is a clear mechanism, diagnosis, and a good outlook. It doesn’t stop me working on finger and upper-body strength which will reap benefits in the longer term.

I'm resigned to doing self-massage and stretching at least five days per week and leg work at least once. I can skip a day and get away with it but go two and I can feel the tightness in the Glutes and the back starts to niggle. It's a pain but just has to be done.

EDIT: And be prepared to do your stretches/exercises anywhere you find yourself with time no matter how many strange looks you get.

You're completely right of course, thanks for the nudge, I just have to do exactly this.