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Tioman Island notes (Read 3164 times)

duncan

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Tioman Island notes
September 02, 2018, 06:07:07 pm

Kampong Mukut and Gunung Semakut

Pulau Tioman (Tioman Island) is a granite isle off the east coast of peninsular Malaysia. It’s not a major international destination but there are some very good multi-pitch routes and it is an interesting alternative to the usual SE Asian suspects. The jungle flora and fauna - monitor lizards, monkeys, flying squirrels, giant snails, and fabulous butterflies - make it a fascinating place to climb.

Development to date is focused on Gunung Semakut (Dragon’s Horns) and surrounding cliffs on the south coast.  The Horns are a pair of spires of roughly 700m altitude with routes up to around 450m long (mostly 250-300m) on good quality rough and featured granite. There are around 12 routes here at present, several established and popular, others rather more off-piste. Temperature and daylight hours vary little from month to month but the rainy season stops play from October to December. Most popular time to visit is May to August.

The main reference I used was Stephane Coupleux & David Acott's comprehensive headtorches, clusterfucks... blog.


The Rough Guide bits

Access is via a ferry from the mainland ports of Mersing Jetty (MYR 70 return + 35 marine conservation area tax) or Tanjung Gemok to Genting, followed by water taxi to Kampong Mukut (Mukut village) (MYR 150-300 per person). Ferries run two or three times a day and can be booked here. Ask your accommodation in Mukut about arranging a water taxi or haggle at the Genting quayside.

Mukut’s main activity is fishing supplemented by a little low-key tourism. Local facilities include a mosque, volleyball pitch, very basic health clinic (two nurses), school (17 students, 10 teachers), very basic food shop (no milk or alcohol), and a number of cafes. There is a good phone signal everywhere in the village and on the approach to the climbs mentioned here.


The Shop

Accommodation options range from spartan to simple: a bungalow comprising bedroom with ceiling fan plus wet room with a cold shower. Pick of the range is probably Simukut Place (previously Simukut Hill View, before that Tanjong Inn, also known as Uncle Sam’s). It’s traditionally the climbers hang, has the new routes book, and the bar discretely stocks beer. Cost MYR 100-260 per night. The more expensive bungalows are bigger and closer to the sea. contact via FB or phone Din on plussixty twelve seventy fiftytwo eightyeight four. There are currently no self-catering facilities here or elsewhere but you can keep a small amount of food in their fridge.

If this is all a bit low-rent, Minang Cove resort is 2km easy walk west.


The Ray Mears stuff

It’s hot and humid especially on the approach hike through the rain forest which is steep and muddy in a few places. Wear quick drying clothing and suitable footwear (fell-running shoes are always the correct answer). Above the tree canopy is it often several degrees cooler and you may be blessed with a breeze. It may rain heavily.


It's hot and humid

Bugs are not a major issue in the village and Tioman is low-risk for malaria but you may feel more comfortable with a net and mosquito repellent. I acquired an unpleasant rash on my forearm for reasons unknown. In retrospect long sleeves and trousers might have been wise. A small first aid kit with antihistamines, antiseptic, and possibly a course of antibiotics would seem advisable. There is a spring to collect water at about half-way up the trail (turn-off clearly waymarked, see picture above). We drank this water with no ill-effects. Bottled water is available at the shop and cafes.


The Climbing


Naga, pitch 2

Climbing started in 2000 with Scotty Nelson and Nick Tomlin’s Waking Dream (5.9 A2, now 7c+) developed big-wall expedition style. Early prospectors spent two to ten days cutting paths through the jungle to the base of their routes, it now takes 1-2 hours via the trail established and maintained by Simkut Place. Access to this is MYR50 for the duration of your visit or 60 if you’d like a guide.

Most climbing is on the southern Horn, three routes here have had multiple ascents and become established area classics: Damai Sentosa (6c+ [6b+ obl.] or about E4), Naga (given 6b/+, about E2, but will feel easier once the first pitch cleans up) and Polish Princess (7b/+ or 6b A0 with a few points of aid and may not feel much harder overall than Damai Sentosa). All three routes are minimally bolted and most will want to supplement the fixed gear with a small rack of cams and possibly a few wires. Long slings and alpine quickdraws are useful for trees and other natural anchors. Descent is generally by abseiling the route and it is worth bringing some spare tat. and stainless mallions especially on the less popular routes.  Freebird (6a) is the technically easiest way up the south peak but has no fixed gear and appears to feature a much higher proportion of jungleering than other routes here. Damai Sentosa, Polish Princess and Waking Dream, have all been rebolted with Titanium glue-ins, Naga has stainless steel compression bolts from 2017. Other routes have a more mixed picture, less beta, but the potential for adventure is thus much greater!


Stephanie Bodet on Pitch 3 Damai Sentosa (pic: David Kaszlikowski)

Whilst the rock and climate make Tioman a relatively safe place to climb, mountain rescue is in its infancy in Malaysia and you should assume you’d be on your own should you have an accident. A team of 4-6 has thus much to recommend over just a pair.

Thanks to Azlan, Da Liu, Idham, Mar, and Patrick for advice and adventures.




jwi

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#1 Re: Tioman Island notes
September 02, 2018, 08:01:24 pm
Great write up! Thanks!

measles23

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#2 Re: Tioman Island notes
September 03, 2018, 07:00:00 am
Great Scuba diving too on Tioman if I remember from 35 yrs ago!

csl

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duncan

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#4 Re: Tioman Island notes
September 18, 2018, 09:40:27 am
That sounds a bit too exciting. Reinforces my penultimate paragraph, whilst this is a holiday destination I wouldn't want to screw up.

 

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