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New 8B+ mortal immortal (Read 8603 times)

tomtom

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#25 Re: New 8B+ mortal immortal
September 16, 2018, 10:37:21 am
How’s it going Dave? I see IG/FB pics of seas of foam under the roof so assume you’re in seige mode?

monkey boy

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#26 Re: New 8B+ mortal immortal
September 16, 2018, 11:49:03 am
I have had 14 sessions on Sean's, Floodgate and the link. Fallen off with my hand on the finishing jug 5 times, the last move is very on and off unfortunately, got there and felt quite fresh yesterday but my foot popped as I went. I can't leave my foot in the hole to get the jug so it adds a fair bit of difficulty, especially as it's after 17 moves. Also obviously not wearing any rubber on my legs  ;)

It's by far the hardest thing I have ever tried. For me it feels mid grade 8A into 8A+ with the red point crux being the last move.

abarro81

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#27 Re: New 8B+ mortal immortal
September 16, 2018, 06:19:05 pm
Just use my beta at the end! No rubber and no hard moves... (p.s. being in Verdon serves to remind my why I'll always use knees when available, if only as training for the greater ranges, think I used 20+ of them on the route I did today)

monkey boy

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#28 Re: New 8B+ mortal immortal
September 17, 2018, 07:31:40 am
Haha nice. I have tried your beta at the end the release is easier off the undercut but the roll over move is strange. Don't like it with your or Stu's feet options.

 

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