[shark]

10.12-11.1 Average 153.8lbs down 0.7lbs

M.

T. AM Cornice with Dave H. Nice conditions. Warmed up on War Memorial. Went on Jug Jockey. Moves felt so much easier. Nearly despatched it first redpoint but fumbled getting the undercut pinch at the end of the top crux. Went down second redpoint  . Decided to finish early on a high and so I'd be fresh for tomorrow

W. AM  Tor. Mimi "no-knees" Ferrari there. Didn't feel at all fresh! Tired just warming up. Took a few goes to do THFML. Played on karate kick move. As usual couldn't make it any easier. Linked kneebar rest into THFML. 3 goes from start failing on swivel into knee bar then got thru the 4th time but kneepad in wrong place so was too painful to rest long but still nearly got thru to the kick move. Followed Ted to Griffs. First time visit. Like a scaled down Crag X - it even has a mini-me Crag X ladder. Tash and crew there. Tried Bovine from standing.

T.

F. AM Tor. Cooler 15 deg and a breeze. Had sacked Malham off as run off might mean the Oak was still wet and Zippy had tweaked his knee. Met Mimi at there. After warming went from straight from start into THFML but arms wilted so couldn’t power up to crimp (vid below) Not quite a high point but not too shoddy either. Long rest then second burn got straight thru to karate kick but much more tired than the first go so decided to head up to Griffs to see if TT was still there. He wasn’t but Ted was. Went on Bovine again. Concentrated on top off the ladder. Jump move wigged me out but did it in the end then linked in from standing. After that had dozens of attempts on first big move.  Only managed it once and almost got the slot so overall did it in overlapping halves. Ted got Muttonbusting 8A 

S.AM Cornice with Joe Lawson. 3 goes on Roof Warrior. All a bit perplexing but started to fall into place by the end. Felt truly busted. Startled myself and everyone around belaying Joe (85kg) when he came off Bricktop and I found myself 10 foot up in air near first bolt with Joe below. Tied myself off to a block after that. Finished by doing War Memorial x 4

S.

Seem to have packed quite a lot in this week so going to take two rest days and then have another bash at Roof Warrior on tuesday. Eye keeps getting drawn to Monumental. Forecast this week is to get cooler but more humid so not sure about Malham especially when the connies at the Cornice are so reliable.

Had a free body composition test down at Sheffield Uni with Tom Partington on weds eve and was able to compare it to other weigh ins with Rob Scaife going to 2011 which was interesting . Key stats on the night were 70.6kg, 5.8kg fat (8.2%) skeletal muscle mass 36.8kg. For ref I'm 54 and 176.5 cm tall       



Thanks Mimi for sending me the footage

[tomtom]

A disappointing week. I had slots lined up for Mon, wed, fri and Sunday.

Due to being Ill and crap weather - I managed weds and Friday. Blackwell both days - both positive sessions but no cigars.

Good to meet Ted up at Griffs on Friday - he showed me a ridiculously easy way to do a hard move with a very dropped knee...

Hoping to get there tomorrow AM.

[nai]

Good work on JJ, shark.

M went to Godrevy but had confused the tides so everything was wet submerged.

T at a playground in St Ives at 7:30 to fingerboard and TRX. Just me and the dog walkers.

W made it to Godvery, 24.5/26 problems in BB wet. Tried Virginia by default but using whack beta for the first move when I found a video of it later.

Th nowt

F back to Virginia, much easier when you do it right, actually a decent problem  .

Also did Flat Holds to Break from BB but it's a bit soft and turns out is a holiday tick of Deep Cave which goes higher (and was wet anyway).
Tried Clean Sweep, a slopey lip traverse which is the best line there, but it was in full sun and everything a foot below the lip was soaking.

S nowt

S checked out Carn Brea, Meh.  Did some insecure high aretes and failed on some others, found a good powerful SS thing but it felt like I was going to lose tips on a crimp. Meh.
Repeaters on a door lintle back at the cottage, pretty painful, said after every set that I'd quit at that point but of course carried on til I'd completed all six.

[Sasquatch]

Well - No idea if i'll stick w powerclub this time around, but lets give it a whirl.  Right now I'm in full season, so my training consists of checking the weather forecast and trying to alternate a day outside with a day on the moonbard with two days rest between every session.  So far this seems to be doing pretty well, and I've seen my strength come back in leaps and bounds in the last two months.  I've got crap endurance, but the routes I've been targeting are super bouldering, so it hasn't mattered much yet.

M-Nothing
T-Short 30 min run
W-Good Moonboard session - warmed up, then knocked out 3 more of the benchmarks. maybe 1.75hrs on the board.  Short PM Mountain Bike-45min or so.
T-Nothing

F-Outside - Bouldering - No real warmup, OS a new v5, then cleaned and climbed a new v6. Then to a new line a friend had cleaned. He managed the fa on his 2nd go of the day (v8ish), I managed to flash it.  Cleaned and worked a new line to the right of his line and managed to knock that one out for a new v9/10fa. Then to a new wall with 5 problems my friend had cleaned the week before.  Managed to flash all 5 lines v3,v4,v5,v6,v3.  Then down to another new boulder and cleaned and climbed 4 more new lines for new v0,v1, v5 and v6 fa's.  Then worked a sit start to the v5 that will clock in at around v10, but couldn't do it.  Too sauced by then. 

S-Spent 8 hours organizing, then doing manual labor trail work.  then had a fun social boulder session.  repeated an old v2, v3, v4, then an old v8/9ish line 2nd go.  Then worked and did all the moves for a low start to a classic v3.  It adds 9 moves out a roof to the start of the v3.  Probably in the v12 range to put it all together.  Managed to do it from 3 moves in to the end, but never managed to link the opening three moves
S- Completely destroyed.  My body was so tired and sore, I could barely sleep. I'm too old for two days of that much work...

Monday will be rest as well, aiming for a MB session Tuesday, then hoping to get outside Friday, then I leave town for work for 4 days.

[cheque]

F-Outside - Bouldering - No real warmup, OS a new v5, then cleaned and climbed a new v6. Then to a new line a friend had cleaned. He managed the fa on his 2nd go of the day (v8ish), I managed to flash it.  Cleaned and worked a new line to the right of his line and managed to knock that one out for a new v9/10fa. Then to a new wall with 5 problems my friend had cleaned the week before.  Managed to flash all 5 lines v3,v4,v5,v6,v3.  Then down to another new boulder and cleaned and climbed 4 more new lines for new v0,v1, v5 and v6 fa's.  Then worked a sit start to the v5 that will clock in at around v10, but couldn't do it.  Too sauced by then. 

Sounds like quite a good day!

[duncan]

Good to be back.

STG - Manage aches, pains and other ailments. Get onto rock in the UK. 
MTG - A classic Pembroke E5; a proper 7b+; a long route somewhere interesting I’ve not visited before TICK!
LTG - 5.13 at 60

M - Tokyo to KL, flight delayed 9 hours by typhoon. Drove and ferried to Tioman Island.
T - Recovered.
W - Reconnoitred path to base of climbing. Climbed first two pitches of Naga, gave the start a good scrub. Shoulder felt OK.
T - Climbed Naga. Given 6b+, perhaps 6a+ or E2 5b. Really good whatever it is. 
F - Ferried and drove to Malaka.
S - Putrajaya climbing centre (convenient for the airport, the real climbing is the wrong side of KL). Part of the Putrajaya Challenge Park in the new-ish federal administrative capital and has all the hallmarks of a top-down planned facility: impressive but not that well maintained, underused, big (20m?) leading walls, some comp. standard, and a small amount of bouldering. None of the routes were graded but I’d guess I managed up to around 6b+.  Shoulder felt OK. Flew back to UK.
S - More flying, then sleeping.


Some actual climbing and training! Frozen shoulder at the ‘thawing’ stage: range still somewhat limited but pain much improved. Both should continue to get better quite quickly and if I’m at 90% at the end of September (6 months) I’ll consider myself to have dodged a bullet. Not sure how realistic E5 is for this year now but will focus on trad. for the next month or so and see how I progress.

Plan: shoulder stretches, fingerboard, easyTrad.^TM

[tommytwotone]

Better week this week...


Goal - new font 7anything anywhere


M - nowt, still feeling sub-par after recent illness
T - first day I'd felt normal in a couple of weeks
W - Sheffield for session with Tim, then a brief session round the mega-easy circuit at The Works. Good volume though.
T - Felt like I'd been run over by a steamroller. Childcare day, spent a while managing DOMS by clambering all over a soft play centre with the kids.
F - Surprise pass so popped to Depot for more easy pottering.
S - Nowt, day at Test Match.
S - 5 mile walk round village with Clem on my back. Surprisingly tough as a) it's pretty hilly and b) he's growing into a big lad


Nice to climb a couple of times, do seem to have aggravated my left elbow somewhere along the line though. Feels like golfer's, kinda hoping it'll go away of its own accord.

[spidermonkey09]

M - rest and rehab of various aching/tight muscles and ligaments!

T - Depot. Session on the 30 board. Weak, but not as weak as expected. Went ok once I'd got into the swing of it but left arm brachialis tendon felt a bit sore so didn't overdo it. Good to top up the power quotient a little.

W - rest.

T - Gordale. Back on Supercool. Good conditions and felt considerably better on it than Saturday.  Past previous high point twice and fell off with LH in pocket, moving across to sidepull. Probably three moves away from being in with a really good shout. It'll go, just got to keep turning up.

F - rest. Went to Wales in the evening.

S - did Sickle on the Grochan. Great route, but seriously weird climbing on it and perhaps quite hard at HVS. Clag then set in and couldn't do anything else. Swam in Llyn Ogwen; baltic! Plenty of beers in the evening.

S - everyone else in Parisellas but couldn't bring myself to pull on with the tide out at LPT. Went down there and did a nice 6a+ and Under the Boardwalk again. Must get down there more often and get into Statement.

Good week; progress on Supercool and a nice relaxed weekend which my elbows needed. Back to Gordale after work tomorrow. Irritatingly the crucial sidepull is now apparently damp but im sure it will be fine...

[Coops_13]

M: Arch. Short play on the boulders, still couldn't jump off/fall so had to flash everything I tried… Crimpd Small Holds workout then the Compression rings workout then went campusing. Did 1-3-5-7-9 on smallest rungs on each arm then progressed to 1-4-5 and 1-2-5. Finished by doing 1-4-6 on both arms a few times each. Really psyched by this, it wasn't long ago that 1-4-6 on the biggest rungs was hard
T: Arch. Went there for circuits but wasn't feeling it. The Biscuit circuit board is so steep that your hands hurt before you get pumped Did a number of sets before packing it in
W:
T: Arch. Heavy gravity day. Did some problems then some fingerboard and campusing. Made up some new lower problems on the board. Hamstring slowly getting better.
F: Physio in the morning. Back almost better, turns out Hammy looks like a grade 2 strain, may be back to rugby in a couple of weeks
S:
S: Run to and from Arch to help rehab hamstring - 1.4km each way 2mins run, 1mins walk, total 8mins each way. Arch. Average session warmed up then played on the board for a while, repeated a load of problems. Did my rings shoulder workout and some FOC

[Murph]

Good work fellas lots of great stuff here!
Sasquatch - welcome back and wow!
TT - details man, you getting MoS wired? Is the drop knee going up for the pinch on bovine?
Shark - Bovine isn’t what it was. Between when TT and I did it and now the starting foothold fell off making that first move easier. That first move was sort of cruxy for me. It’s in a little pile under it and could be reattached. I’d do it myself with some no more nails if that’s the right thing..?

M-
T-5k run. Works pinkles circuit (F5) and sub-max fingerboard session. Going for +30kgs on 2min mark rather than +40kg on 3min. Really my fingers are quite weak at the moment, for me.
W-
T-quick pm session at griffs working Griffs/Bovine Traverse, 7B. Lots of moves to learn. 
F-
S-AM - griffs/bovine went in a oner. Yes! Then spent an hour getting beaten up by ovine. Just couldn’t commit to the post-flag hand move. Not getting the toe over far enough, just plain cowardice or a lack of finger strength/confidence. I can’t see this going without putting in some hard work tbh. Grades are weird.
S-PM - family boulder at trackside.
S - family boulder at robin hoods. Perfect conditions. No one else bouldering there. I always find that bizarre. Did laps of the easy spine slab doing all the eliminates. Just felt awesome moving fluidly on rock. Great times.

67.8kgs this morning.

Thinking about getting back in shape now. Things like Ovine and recent struggles on 7As at the Tor really shouldn’t be so difficult, they haven’t in time gone by. I know I’ve got it in me to flash things like this but I’ve been spinning my wheels for a few months and am still 4kgs overweight for some reason, haven’t been nearly as consistent on the fingerboard, kettlebells, core training or even running! That might sound negative but it isn’t meant as such. I’m really enjoying all the bouldering but am sort of coming round to believe I should put the work in to climb harder than 7B regularly. It’s an idea anyway!

[shark]

Shark - Bovine isn’t what it was. Between when TT and I did it and now the starting foothold fell off making that first move easier. That first move was sort of cruxy for me. It’s in a little pile under it and could be reattached. I’d do it myself with some no more nails if that’s the right thing..?

I believe reattaching it is on someone else's to do list as well. No rush...

[tomtom]

TT - details man, you getting MoS wired? Is the drop knee going up for the pinch on bovine?

Dropped knee works a treat up for the pinch (thanks Ted). Dropped the last move today (grr..) on Griffs >> Bovine - and burnt out on last move or two on other attempts. Need a drop more power endurance I guess...

No MoS progress really - not been on it for a little while. Finger strength seems to be holding me back on stuff atm...

[Sasquatch]

F-Outside - Bouldering - No real warmup, OS a new v5, then cleaned and climbed a new v6. Then to a new line a friend had cleaned. He managed the fa on his 2nd go of the day (v8ish), I managed to flash it.  Cleaned and worked a new line to the right of his line and managed to knock that one out for a new v9/10fa. Then to a new wall with 5 problems my friend had cleaned the week before.  Managed to flash all 5 lines v3,v4,v5,v6,v3.  Then down to another new boulder and cleaned and climbed 4 more new lines for new v0,v1, v5 and v6 fa's.  Then worked a sit start to the v5 that will clock in at around v10, but couldn't do it.  Too sauced by then. 

Sounds like quite a good day!

Both Friday and Saturday were really good days.  Quite exhausting, but really good. 

[SA Chris]

M- nothing, rest recover from Sun night run
T- nothing
W - Lunchtime hill reps. I fucking hate hill reps. Evening bouldering session down the wall. Actually climbed OK given the lack of plastic time recently, even did a bit on the campus board.
T - nothing.
F lunchtime running interval session. Actually starting to enjoy them, still hard.
S - Edinburgh fringe with kids. Lots of walking.
S - Bouldering at Eden Rock Edinburgh with kids. Spent a lot of time spotting (kids area is good though) and worked on the slopers circuit a bit. great facility, close to IKEA so can escape shopping. 18 km run in evening @half marathon pace. hard. Chased by cows on other side of fence, who scared a badger who nearly ran into me.

[Duma]

71kg

M - rest, battered from doubles on Sunday.

T - out for dinner with other half, throat started to hurt.

W - felt bit cruddy at work but went to cheddar anyway after, mostly to belay Ro on her proj. Put clips in her route and did 5 laps of a steep thuggy 7a as some sort of nod to training, felt worse in eve.

Th - Ill, off work. Felt awful in morning but improved quickly through afternoon.

F - back to work but not 100%, early night.

S - Cheddar again, Ro still on proj. Opened account on Bursting The Wave (7c+ in guide but prob 8a) - 1st go all but one move on initial wall done, moves ok but pretty continuous and hard slap right at end. Dale worked out a way through the move on lower wall. Go 2 and 3 got through lower wall and stuck into upper crack, realised that getting set up with hands right way round for final hard slap is really hard in itself. Not sure I'm that psyched for this, but will prob keep trying while Ro's on her route.

S - hungover, pottered round house.

[Murph]

Dropped the last move today (grr..) on Griffs >> Bovine - and burnt out on last move or two on other attempts. Need a drop more power endurance I guess...

Funny how we’ve been working the same things recently. Keep at it - could just be a case of getting the sequence wired.

Ovine next then?

[nai]

do seem to have aggravated my left elbow somewhere along the line though. Feels like golfer's, kinda hoping it'll go away of its own accord.

Tain't gonna be golfers having pottered on it twice, it's not usually having hammered it for months on end.  It'll be postural/restrictions/tightness. Massage & stretch forearms, shoulders, lats, etc and it'll disappear as soon as it came on. 

[tomtom]

Dropped the last move today (grr..) on Griffs >> Bovine - and burnt out on last move or two on other attempts. Need a drop more power endurance I guess...

Funny how we’ve been working the same things recently. Keep at it - could just be a case of getting the sequence wired.

Ovine next then?

Ovines a funny one... those slopey crimps feel so dodgy :D I;ve got as far as getting both crimps and a slap upwards ~ but that was on a good conditions day. I also hadnt done the first couple of moves which Ted was showing me on Monday - and they felt grim!!

Slightly tweaky forefinger (left) that gets a bit if abuse on Griffs - so may have to think of something else to do tomorrow...

[tommytwotone]

do seem to have aggravated my left elbow somewhere along the line though. Feels like golfer's, kinda hoping it'll go away of its own accord.

Tain't gonna be golfers having pottered on it twice, it's not usually having hammered it for months on end.  It'll be postural/restrictions/tightness. Massage & stretch forearms, shoulders, lats, etc and it'll disappear as soon as it came on. 

Good knowledge, I'll factor that in to my (already pretty extensive) regime!

[Nibile]

Late entry!
Power Club

Mon - rest.
Tue - ab wheel, static. Strong! Dumbbell complex, exhausting: reverse lunges x5, overhead press x10, bicep curls x10, high pulls x20, bentover row x10; all x 3. Ab work.
Wed - something weights related.
Thu - something weights related.
Fri - one arm hangs on 1,5 cm edge up to +5 kg in preparation for Pex. Weights.
Sat -rest. Travel to Liverpool, Monolith's housewarming party, ate and drank like a bastard. Epic night with live DJing.
Sun - rest. Walked a lot. Ate a lot.