Some routes were described here in the old Stanage guide but these are grubby and vegetated. The short roofs at the top and some outlying rocks give good bouldering in a lovely setting. It's a bracken jungle in the summer, but a nice shady spot on warmer spring/autumn days. From what I can tell, the approach is access land but the crag isn't, though it's well hidden so I can't see climbing here being an issue. Please be careful as you cross the wall.
Park at Cutthroat Bridge. Walk down the road and go through the gate on the left (there is parking here for 3/4 cars but it's usually full).
The most obvious approach is to follow the track out of the trees for about 15mins until an obvious paths leads rightwards and up the other hillside. Follow this until it flattens out and cross the heathery field to the right to the big drystone wall at where it bends round. Carefully climb over at the fence post that has support from either side.
It is quicker if the bracken is down to cut off the corner - After about 10mins along the track a barbed wire fence drops down to the right, follow this then go down to a small stream. Cross over and go up the hillside opposite, eventually joining a path which leads along the dry stone wall. Climb over at the bend.
The main roof area is down and to the left slightly.
MAIN ROOF AREA
Priddock Roof Left 6B+ The left lip of the roof
Priddock Roof Right 6B The right lip of the roof
Priddock Wall 6A Pleasant wall from sit
Easy layback crack
R Plank 6B+ Roof with mantel
1946 7B Dyno from the big jug to the break
Lucie Zimmel 6B Roof from sit start on the slot
10m to the right is
Tarkus 7A+ From a contorted start at the back of the roof (kneepad) reach out to flakes and power round the lip
JUST BELOW
East India 5+ Little arete from sit
West India 6A Wall to the right from sit
BLOCK 100M BELOW
Space Docking 6C Traverse the lip (no top, or big holds low down) to finish up the prow
Dock Leaf 6B Sit start, flake, to topout without block on left
What's Up Dock? 6A+ 'Prow' on right, no ledge
AREA 200M TO LEFT OF MAIN ROOF AREA
You Priddock! 6A Low start to arete, rocking right onto big foothold 6A
Au Chameau 6C+ Guppy up the arete, no backwall or big foothold
Every Open Eye 6C Nice arete with highball top out
Neil on Tarkus