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Giza and Left Hand Man has anybody... (Read 1695 times)

ianfitz

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Giza and Left Hand Man has anybody...
September 22, 2004, 10:16:44 pm
.....done them. Or tried them.

 started climbing again after a few years of generally lack of psych, surfing, becoming a dad, that sort of thing.

I think Iwas climbing quite well when I did Giza (on the side of the sphynx)
and Left Hand Man (secret Garden)

I noticed they're on the ape index site as V10.  Intresting 'cos I did Flatworld on Sunday in three goes, and both the other prob's took, erm, a bit longer.

just curious to know peoples opinion....

Bubba

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#1 Giza and Left Hand Man has anybody...
September 22, 2004, 10:19:26 pm
Last I heard, Giza is going in the new guide at 7b, though is apparantly morpho...

dave

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#2 Giza and Left Hand Man has anybody...
September 22, 2004, 10:33:58 pm
cofe did gize recently, and others (huffy etc). Ru sed it was going i at 7b+, which i think is a comprimise between the grades given of 7a+ and 7c+.

looks good though, i must do it this winter.

ianfitz

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#3 Giza and Left Hand Man has anybody...
September 22, 2004, 10:36:46 pm
Giza is a large(ish) rock over, I'm not sure if it's morpho thou'

I'm only 5'8" for me it was more a head thing.
After decking out from the top and rolling down the hill I got all psyched and did it next go.

dave

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#4 Giza and Left Hand Man has anybody...
September 23, 2004, 12:04:53 am
apparently the taller can do it without a rockover, but with a scary slap for the top or something like that rings a bell. maybe.

Ru

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#5 Giza and Left Hand Man has anybody...
September 23, 2004, 09:18:34 am
Hi Ian,

I've not done, or tried (yet) Giza, but it is currently in at 7b+ after suggestions of 7a+ - 7c.

Left Hand Man - you did without using the holds on the left arete didn't you? Andy Harris thought you didn't use them anyway. I've only done it using the holds on the left arete (thought 7b like this) and not quite done it without (hard 7c+ I'm thinking, but will know better when I've done it) and I've not heard of anyone else that's done it like this. This is in at 7c+ at the moment.

Flat World is a bit odd - everyone I know that's done it falls into two camps - those that do it very fast and think that it's easy and those that find it very hard. I thought it was about 7b/7b+ and find many 7b+s harder, but there are lots of good climbers that struggle, so currently it's still in at 7c.

I'd be interested to know what other opinions you have on Peak problems.

Rupert

ianfitz

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#6 Giza and Left Hand Man has anybody...
September 23, 2004, 11:27:44 am
Rupert

Are you working on a new guide then? I'm a bit out of the loop regarding things like this.

If you, or somebody else is, there's quite a bit of esoterica I could point you at.

I'd gladly give you my opinion (for what it's worth) on any peak prob's.

Rather not post my email address on a public forum - best send a private mesage and we'll sort it out. I'll attempt this shortly...

Theres also another problem on the same wall at secret garden. A diagonal line starting as for Zaf's arete thing and finishing on the same pocket as LHM. I tried the direct line up the middle but the difficulty to quality ratio was not sufficient to put the time in.

I think I am safe in saying that flexible people with small, but strong, fingers will find LHM easier than those who ain't.

ned

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#7 Giza and Left Hand Man has anybody...
September 24, 2004, 03:05:55 pm
Is Left Hand Man one of the aretes to the right of the main section of secret garden, starting (sitting?) in the big break down the gully type thing??

a dense loner

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#8 Giza and Left Hand Man has anybody...
September 24, 2004, 06:09:49 pm
yes

 

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