[Bubba]

Had a great day yesterday - the wind gave good grit conditions and we had a nice long day over at the Roaches, Doxey's Pool and the Very Far Skyline.

The new Evolve shoes workeed great and my skin held up well for the first day on grit in ages - the anti-hydral/hoofmaker combo seems to work. Also bumped into Ru and Justin C and hi to Richard if you're reading this - get signed up to the forum mate.

Anyone know who's done the cool drainage job on the problems around Staffordshire Flyer?

Sweet  :D

[Ru]

Yeah we had a big day at the roaches too - spring boulders, the enclosure, the calcutta problems (well worth a pootle over to if you're on the upper tier), the upper tier boulders, doxey's pool, the cube, then back to the inertia reel wall and mushin to catch the final cool conditions at the end of the day (met dave, scouse and cofe there) before heading off to the pub. Wicked.

I could hardly move this morning.

[tommytwotone]

word. Top weekend - beering in Sheff Fri night, got nowt done on Satdy apart from coffee n chips in town despite a lovely afternoon.

Got out to Burb North Sunday, did the ususal suspects (still can't do bloody BF direct or Remergence!)

Met mates at Burb South - messed about on boulders, went up to the edge to watch them failing on a route so decided to lead it meself, show them what for, after all it was only VS.

Big mistake - scary off width crack ting (called Roof Route I think, has about 3 chockstones in it interestingly enough  :wink: ).

Made a huge Sunday luch-style meal of it, ended up leg and arm stuck in the crack run out above gear. Huffed an puffed to the top and then no-one wanted to/was able to second!

Cracking day, hope this is the start of a long, crisp autumnal spell  :D

[dave]

Met mates at Burb South - messed about on boulders, went up to the edge to watch them failing on a route so decided to lead it meself, show them what for, after all it was only VS.

Big mistake - scary off width crack ting (called Roof Route I think, has about 3 chockstones in it interestingly enough  :wink:

don't worry bout that VS - a few years ago i lowered off that one summer, then about a month later did the knock. i know which was easier.

seems everyone was at the roaches yesterday. we went to the 5cloudz first. Finger of Fate is a cracking problem, but my advice is don't fall off it - even with a mountain of mats, the damp slopey landing makes it worrying. also marxist undertones and commie crack are ace - very necky warming up on them in extreme wind though. for those of a raut persuasion appolosa sunset is the most bo E3 going. that boulder underneath 4th cloud is also good.

we then finished off at lower tier, tried mushin and shit, the boys iced the dyno, and decided it was too windy to solo chalkstorm. i suspect cofe's beta was wack anyway.

i'm fucking aching today like a mutha. didn't help that i overlayed by an hour this morning either - i swear i check my alarm was on at least twice last nite!

[Bubba]

We was hoping to meet you boys up there but reckon our paths must have crossed as we went along the top to the V.F. Skyline. Where, incidentally is some of the nicest quality grit in the Peak imho.

[Graeme]

Went to the baldstones and newstones yeaterday, did baldstones traverse, and the eliminate sly stallone traverse, awesome, got a flapper and went home for a sleep.

[dave]

Where, incidentally is some of the nicest quality grit in the Peak imho.

its actually the best rock in the world. same as the slipstones rock, and the stuff on soem of the 5 clouds is very similar. much better than the normal soft pink "falling to bits" roaches rock!

[Bubba]

Yeah, I was thinking it was just like the Slipstones rock too...shame there's not a bit more of it.

[Sloper]

Couldn't get out ont he grit this weekend so I had to make do with Apremont Bizons and some choss in the trois pignons  

[fatboySlimfast]

A top day indeed bubba, watching my puppy nibbling at somebodys thoughtlessly deposited bum contents certainly had me thinking and avoiding being licked

[Bubba]

Yeah, thanks to whoever had a shite on the descent to one of the main low tier boulders  :roll:

[dave]

i was somewhere recently where every path had shit on it, just cos it was off the main paths. disgracefull.

i find it particularly annoying, cos basically unless you are caught out by some medical emergency you shouldn't need to shit at the crag, or at least not at the frequency that some people clearly are. if you do, either bury it or at least burn the bogroll. it fucking pisses me off, especially i font where theres shit and bogroll everywhere , sometimes under problems that are just off the main parts. i mean for fucks sake, do people not have toilets at home?

its just the same as fucking litter. fag ends etc.

[tommytwotone]

D-Dogg wrote:

don't worry bout that VS - a few years ago i lowered off that one summer, then about a month later did the knock. i know which was easier.

looking good for me then - always wanted to do the Knock...I really don't know what attracts me to heinous off-widths, must be the innate gritstone climber in me  :roll:

I think I'll go back next weekend, take the chockstones out (after all, I never clipped 'em) and chuck 'em in Right Eliminate...whadday'allreckon?

[tommytwotone]

i was somewhere recently where every path had shit on it, just cos it was off the main paths. disgracefull.

i find it particularly annoying, cos basically unless you are caught out by some medical emergency you shouldn't need to shit at the crag, or at least not at the frequency that some people clearly are. if you do, either bury it or at least burn the bogroll. it fucking pisses me off, especially i font where theres shit and bogroll everywhere , sometimes under problems that are just off the main parts. i mean for fucks sake, do people not have toilets at home?

its just the same as fucking litter. fag ends etc.

font is terrible for that - I'm assuming that it ain't the locals cacking in the forest. Would be a real shame if the Peak went down a similar route.

I get seriously narked about general litter/fag ends and ting, generally end up taking home a fair bit if other people's rubbish after a day at the crag. I've always meant to get involved in one of the crag clear-ups, anyone here ever done one?

[Bubba]

I believe that the old water supply to North Lees campsite has already been made undrinkable by people shitting at Stanage  :roll:

[Fiend]

Yeah, I was thinking it was just like the Slipstones rock too...shame there's not a bit more of it.

Which coincidentally was where I was on Sunday. A bit rainy at first, then good conditions, nicely windy of course. Beasted myself making no progress on Sulky Little Boys nor Micro Corner (the former will go when it's proper cold), had a bit of a sulk, then did a nice load of mid-grade stuff, Layby, Rock On Left, Right Hand Twin etc etc. Best of all was Sunday 20th, just opposite RHT, great problem with a fantastic top move, like no move I've ever done before.  Got stuck in traffic on the A1 (stop bumbling at 40 you fucking punters) but managed to squeeze back to Sheff just in time to join friends for an exsquisite Teppynaki (sp?) at Wasabisabi. Class.

Saturday was bollox tho.

[/quote]

[webbo]

went to brimham on sunday as it was supposed to be the better day.blue sky all the way there.piss wet thro and then it started raining.
so it was fuck about under jokers wall avoiding the wet streaks.just as it started to dry out some freshers bouldering meet turned up.
went to happy days which was in reasonable nick.not the best of days but i managed to string a few moves together that had previously eluded me.

[dave]

I believe that the old water supply to North Lees campsite has already been made undrinkable by people shitting at Stanage  :roll:

i doubt thats true! afterall the amount of human shit at thanage still pales into insignificance at the amount of sheep shit.

[Graeme]

just as it started to dry out some freshers bouldering meet turned up.

Christ I've heard it all now. :roll:
Shame there's no icon for holding your head in your hands, or shaking your head and rolling your eyes at the same time.

[Si O'Conor]

...

[hongkongstuey]

Where, incidentally is some of the nicest quality grit in the Peak imho.

[Fingers of a Martyr]

i finished my static bachar ladder thingy, made out of pull ups bars, that runs up the top of my cellar stairs. kind of like doing 1-4-7-11-15 on a campus board set a 45 degrees. it's too fuckin hard. :cry:

[webbo]

why f.o.a..m was it raining in the lakes. :wink:

[Fiend]

Anyone know who's done the cool drainage job on the problems around Staffordshire Flyer?

That's cool....very useful as it's a good enough problem without Shallow Water Solo status  :roll:

Big mistake - scary off width crack ting (called Roof Route I think, has about 3 chockstones in it interestingly enough  ).

Made a huge Sunday luch-style meal of it, ended up leg and arm stuck in the crack run out above gear. Huffed an puffed to the top and then no-one wanted to/was able to second!

<nelson>Haw Haw!</n> Serves you right   P.S. Excellent idea to use the chocks on Right Eliminate (if someone hasn't sikaed the crack shut already).

Finger of Fate is a cracking problem, but my advice is don't fall off it - even with a mountain of mats, the damp slopey landing makes it worrying.

Heh, makes me a bit chuffed as I went for the authentic solo experience without mats - got it first time albeit with a leap for the jug rather than any poncy smearing business  :wink:

[dave]

makes me a bit chuffed...

why?

[a dense loner]

went to wimberry sun eve wi jim. climbed for bout 20 mins b4 it went dark, buying a lantern sometime soon. start gettin back on the grit now for the silly season :D

[webbo]

dave. do you need to order some more medals eh!

[dave]

went to wimberry sun eve wi jim. climbed for bout 20 mins b4 it went dark, buying a lantern sometime soon. start gettin back on the grit now for the silly season :D

cofe was on about getting some big halogen floodlights and a genny on a borrow from a mate for nighttime shit (presumably to try hurricane). not sure whatever came of it though.

[Fiend]

why?

Just because another viewpoint that falling off would be sketchy even above mats confirms my thought that there is a worthwhile psychological aspect to it.

Sorry that's a bit penile isn't it. Didn't mean to come across that way.

 :nade:

[BenF]

Went running up on Saddleworth moor on saturday.

Went to Burbage South and boulders on sunday.  Ace day, did loads of shit I ain't done before.  Realised that I've hardly done anything at Burbage south.  Stuff on the Useful boulder, sitdowns on the Pock, random aretes in the boulders.  

Wandered up to the edge and did the mantle right of Jasons Mantle, before wasting loads of skin on Jasons Mantle.  Then I managed to drag myself over it and felt well chuffed.  All in about 15 minutes, but then my only forte is mantling (thats Castle Hill for you).  Some cool stuff just to the left of Attitude Inspector, lots of rock over/mantle fun.  The brilliant wall on the left of said dyno.  All together a great day, loads of new problems and the best day out for a couple of weeks.

Feel like a teenager suddenly inspired by Burbage, not many people out there who haven't ticked the valley I guess.  Even my mate Mick who seems to have climbed everything in the Peak is psyched for the valley at the moment.  Can't wait for next day off on Wednesday.

What a self obsessed, me me me rant that was.  Sorry!

[SA Chris]

Me and rowie went to a wedding in Bilbao. Really nice city, would have liked to stat for a few days and get some surf in. Got totally ruined on red wine at the wedding and lost about 3 hours of the evening somehow.

Wouldnt have been able to climb anyway as i took a surfboard to the outer shin on Wednesday night on Aberdeen Beach and limping like a bastard.

[a dense loner]

got a conveyer belt approach goin on at life in a radioactive dustbin n dedicated all the ascents to JR :wink:  

[vivahate]

sounds good, i might go down the roaches on wednesday and check it out, are the spring boulders climbable this time of year?

[dontfollowme]

I had a look at the spring boulders yesterday and they didn't seem in great nick but then it was a warm damp day.

[Jim]

its at boybage north, got some good pictures BTW. will post up tomorrow. Had a top day thursday. Was out with my homies, dense & tetler, bumped into fat boy at boybage north and did loads of stuff I've never tried b4, life in a radioactive dustbin, prob to left of this, small is beautifull, banana direct, thing to right of banana direct. Very good day only spoilt by the fact I couldn't do blind date (in direct sunlight so a bit sweaty) or the nose (was knackered after 4 hours of climbing)

[dave]

or the nose (was knackered after 4 hours of climbing)

did dense do it? its good, wish i was there.

[a dense loner]

or the nose (was knackered after 4 hours of climbing)

did dense do it? its good, wish i was there.

watch your language. a tall, tall guy did it using the best sequence i have ever seen. basically come round the nose onto the first good right hand hold, then slap up with your left, again, again, again, n top with your left. his right hand was still on the good hold :shock:  :shock:  :shock:

[dave]

when you say "good right hand hold" , do you mean the main sloper on the nose, or the good break hold after that? if the latter, thats what i go with the LH to the top off.

[Jim]

we can't all be tall or have long arms