the shizzle > get involved: access, environment, BMC
Hold repair beta thread
mark20:
A few pointers for glueing small-ish edges/flakes back on-
If it's not possible to get glue in the back of the hold, carefully lever it off with a nut key, trying to catch any other bits that shatter off. If it breaks into many pieces it may be best/easiest to glue them all together before glueing it back on to the rock.
Use a wire brush to remove dust and dirt from the hold and rock.
Sometimes the greasy glue residue makes using small holds very greasy and hard to hold for quite a while after you've glued it. I've starting putting tape on the useable part of the hold to avoid getting glue on it. Once it's all glued back on, peel it off and you're ready to climb.
Bonjoy:
To add to Mark's comment on gluing holds back together before they are stuck back on - i've found this is best done using superglue. SG will bond the broken pieces almost instantly and will not distort the shape of the hold so it will fit neatly back on. It's not as strong a bond as resin though so you do need to use judgement as to structural versus cosmetic significance of the new bond. Likewise when holds are stuck back on with resin you need to think about leverage and loading direction, sometimes a extra blob or bead of resin here or there will hugely increase a holds resistance to ripping off.
bigironhorse:
Have you guys experimented with araldite? Wasn't the crimp on Tom's roof reattached using it? That seems to have stood the test of time!
Bonjoy:
I did once. It was smelly, runny, messy and very slow drying. It's also shiny and harder to visually blend in. I think polyester resins are the best bet for hold repair and are cheap and readily available these days.
bigironhorse:
Cheers. Good thread.
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