[shark]

Anyone have experience of this? A google suggests that to do it properly requires unpleasant solvent based strippers and is massively time consuming and fiddly.

Is this a job for the pros or should an under employed impatient shark be capable?

If a job for the pros then any Sheffield area recommendations appreciated.

Thanks

[mikester]

I'm far from being a pro and did this (and treads & risers). It was a pain in the arse or labour of love, depending on my mood at the time, and whilst it seemed to take an age it was probably just chunks of effort spread over a few days and I could dip in and out of it. Don't worry, it's not a multi-year siege.

To remove paint and varnish I went over everything three times using (in order) the following:
1) Heat gun + scrape
2) Nitromors + scrape/scrub
3. Sanding

Dunno if that's the textbook method, but it worked for me.

Simple but tedious. Like many climbers 

[shark]

Thanks Mikester

[nic mullin]

Not a pro either but sounds like good advice above. I’d add:
A) nitromors is expensive and unpleasant, but works a lot better than cheaper alternatives that contain marginally less unpleasant chemicals. B) Coarse wire wool is easier than sandpaper for anything that isn’t flat. C) get a decent dust mask, especially if the paint is old and possibly lead based.

[Teaboy]

How easy would it be to remove the items and get them dipped? This sort of work is never good for the elbows

[Steve R]

Speaking as a pro (in drudgery avoidance, recently self-appointed), I'd recommend (i) light sand, (ii) clean (iii) re-paint (iv) do something more fulfilling with large amount of time saved.  You're welcome 

[shark]

How easy would it be to remove the items and get them dipped? This sort of work is never good for the elbows

Not practical to remove the panelling or balustrades. The RSI/elbow injury potential is something that I'd not considered. Sounds like an excellent excuse for getting a pro in.

[shark]

Not a pro either but sounds like good advice above. I’d add:
A) nitromors is expensive and unpleasant, but works a lot better than cheaper alternatives that contain marginally less unpleasant chemicals. B) Coarse wire wool is easier than sandpaper for anything that isn’t flat. C) get a decent dust mask, especially if the paint is old and possibly lead based.

Thanks for tips Nic

[GraemeA]

Is this a job for the pros or should an under employed impatient shark be capable?

A capable shark? Remind me of the etymology of your nickname.

[kelvin]

Sounds like an excellent excuse for getting a pro in.

I am a pro and I turn down jobs like this all the time. It's a shit job to do.

[shark]

I am a pro and I turn down jobs like this all the time. It's a shit job to do.

Have a heart Kelvin - what about unparalleled joy of revealing beautiful woodwork steeped in history probably hidden for over 50 years AND being paid for the privilege

[DAVETHOMAS90]

This took an age to strip, but glad I did.

A few tips.

Be very careful with lead paint. Standard hot air paint strippers vaporise the lead paint. Dust masks will offer no protection from the fumes. However, it is possible to buy a low heat gun, specifically for stripping lead paint at a lower temperature.

As has been said above, knock out anything you think you can. Mr Goode on Abbeydale Road has stripped loads of doors, balustrades etc for me. This can be quite aggressive.

If you use chemical strippers at home, Nitromors etc, they no longer work as well as they used to, with ingredients removed for environmental reasons. A useful tip here is to put some form of plastic wrap over the treated area. This reduces evaporation so that you can leave things stripping overnight.

The best way to remove the gunk left on the wood after using a gun, is to use a caustic soda solution. I'll try to find further info to pass on about that. Really important to always use protective gloves and safety glasses when working with caustic soda. As said above, fine wire wool will help you really get into small crannies. Abrasive green sponge scourers are really good to work with. Washing off the caustic is important, and takes a good couple of washes.

More info perhaps when I see you.

[shark]

Cheers Dave

[highrepute]

Some kind of electric sander will go a long way on flatter surfaces. We've taken the varnish off cupboard and cleaned up floors with the cheapest screwfix offering. Will create a lot of dust.

[DAVETHOMAS90]

"Lead in paint turns into invisible, toxic fumes at 900-1000℉".

This lower temp heater sounds very good :

https://eco-strip.com/faqs/

Loads out there on Caustic Soda.