[shark]

Weight 11.0-4  Average 156.7 down 0.5lbs

M.

T. Handed in gun and badge at BMC 

W.Tor 7am Air temp ok but rock still warm. Warm up go on Anger Management then Nick had a redpoint and did it! My go and I redpointed all the way up the headwall to the break but too pumped to recover to go left - nevertheless a highpoint somwhat overshadowed by Nicks success. Good rest but temp had gobne up and was slipping all over the shop so sacked it off. Nick went and I stayed and pottered on Ben's. Two goes from start to failing on set up for karate kick and another go failing on the swivel to the knee bar. Had a dabble at tryingh to reengineer the kick move but no new beta. Contemplated X but skin was too worn

T.

F.Tor 7am Mike came out. Met Ben Steel there. Air temp ok but rock still warm. Warm up go on Anger Management Go1 Redpointed all the way to clip on headwall then came over all weak and useless. Dogged to top then stripped it. Over to Xbrook to meet Tomtom One decent go on JR but then burnt out. Nice day. Disappointing performance. Eve Got hammered with Grimer and BMC Marketing crew

S.

S.Tor 7am Met Ben Steel there. Slightly better than fri with intermittent breeze but rock still warm. Warm up go on Anger Management Go1 and Go2 I redpointed all the way to clip on headwall running out of beans. Tried to lead Tin Of but needed two rests. Disappointing again. Time for a change of scenery


Gums still a bit sore. Weight all over the place. Expected to feel fresher after 5 rest days byt still feel jaded. Maybe its just the weather. High point on  Anger Management on Weds but think I need a break from it. Hopefully go on Thormans Moth this week which Ive never tried before. Might even join in the Cornice crowd as not done Roof Warrior, Jug Jockey or Taylor Made.

Going to have a think about how to best prep for Malham in Autumn. Probably should start fingerboarding again for starters though constantly thin skin from warm weather cranking will be an issue. 

Me on AM courtesy of Cheque

Anger Management by TheUKBShark, on Flickr

[Nibile]

Power Club
4-10 giu

Mon - rest.
Tue - rest.
Wed - rest.
Thu - finally some training! Strength circuit, this beauty here . A last set of four reps each really smashed me. 31 degrees.
Fri - built myself a squat rack, then tested it. Singles up to 60 kg. Pathetic. Weights complex. 
Sat - system lock offs; one arm hangs on 1,5 edge; light clean and press.
Sun - system: dynos+low PE combo. Ab wheel. Stretching/postural stuff.

Boiling temps.

[Coops_13]

M:
T: Arch. Tried max hangs but hurt wrist so went on moonboard and made up problems. Did Little Squeak 7A, made up Big Squeak 7B but no send as of yet
W:
T:
F:
S: Arch. Volume session on the moonboard. Did 14 Benchmarks 6A+ to 7A+ then set three new problems, 2 6Cs and a 6C+ which I thought were quite good. Go try them out!
S:

Eating and drinking a lot but still managing to keep weight around the 80kg mark which I'm happy with. Too hot atm to train too successfully

[tommytwotone]

LTG: Font 7anything


M - gym on lunch, stretching / TRX physio then 200 rep workout inc KB squats, swings
T - nowt, watched football in the evening
W - nowt
T - gym on lunch, as Monday but different exercises in 200 reps
F - nowt
S - nowt, family stuff then watched football
S - nowt, mowing the lawn / hay in boiling temps


Getting back into it, can feel the fitness coming back slowly. Ludicrous temps not really helping with psyche, though today is a welcome respite.

[galpinos]

T. Handed in gun and badge at BMC 

Sorry to hear than Simon.

[tomtom]

Tu: Returned from Italy.. remarkably without putting on any discernible weight!

We: Climbing! First time in nearly two weeks. Quick morning tip up to Helsby... climbed really well considering - 10+ problems up to 7A+

Th:

Fr: Met Shark and Cheque up at X (Hello Cheque!). Had about 10-15 attempts at Jericho Road that were really quite disappointing. Good to catch up with Shark and all the BMC gossip - and to meet Cheque for the first time. Topics ranged from opiates to Sharks morning toilet timings.

Sa: Had to go to work (open day) listened to the football on the way home

Su: TT Jnrs 2nd birthday. Good day out in the 30 degree Mancunian heat

Really trying to get back in some sort of form - which is proving hard going by todays climbing. Tough after a couple of weeks off...

[nai]

M -  worked out a sequence for Naive & Sentimental but couldn't redpoint it.  Kept falling off a reachy but not that hard move leaving Up The River, after that there's a hard and reachy boulder problem right at the top, felt solid 7c to me.

T rest

W - managed NaS at the 3rd RP attempt on the day, about the 10th tie in overrall.  Turned out I was just being a bit complacent on the move out of UTR but the top still felt nails and was a tussle on the successful attempt.
Tried Succubus, another 'kin reach problem.  Working go (aka rubbish flash attempt) then fell off RP.  Reckon it should be ok fresh although the big move at the lip could go first attempt or just not go at all.

Th can't remember

F fingerboard, first time in a few weeks but not too bad
shoulder conditioning etc

S

S fingerboard. Decided I needed to change tack so experimenting with the 7-53 protocol. 4sets.


Also got an eye on Autumn now, two more weeks of term time and the summer campaign will be pretty much over so it'll be time for a short training block.

[TobyD]

Ian, me and Dave Heselden tried NaSL the other day and neither of us did it. It's nails, Dave did it years ago and thinks it has broken somewhere. It is, however really good I thought.

[nai]

Interesting, I did wonder if something might have come off, couldn't see any likely looking scars but then it is all caked in grime.  And couldn't make any sense of the "Higher alternative" for the short mentioned in the old rockfax.  Either way it's a cracking technical & powerful finish to the route.  Cracking section of the crag that, should do Zippy's finish to Old Man River as well while it's dry.

[TobyD]

Interesting, I did wonder if something might have come off, couldn't see any likely looking scars but then it is all caked in grime.  And couldn't make any sense of the "Higher alternative" for the short mentioned in the old rockfax.  Either way it's a cracking technical & powerful finish to the route.  Cracking section of the crag that, should do Zippy's finish to Old Man River as well while it's dry.

Yes I thought so too. Apparently it's easier but not easy! Also the link up Dirty Old Man would be great to do