[Bubba]

Ok, I'm well out of touch with the world of ropes and all that, but if I was going to do some sport climbing with my g/f who's a complete novice to any form of ropework - ok, she's been toproped up 3 Pebble Slab but that's about it, what is the safest belay device to use?

I've only ever used fig-8 / sticht plates so what are all these new-fangled things like gri-gris, etc like?

Am I less likely to be dropped or am I better off just doing some thorough teaching using an old-skool device?

[Graeme]

Go for the old school approach, I couldn't figure out how to use a gri-gri even after being shown.

[dave]

don;t use GGs unless with experiance honkie.

safest is probably  stich plate, but with a beginner they can lock up like a mofo. from day1 of climbing i've used the classic ATC (not the new one with the piss-flaps) and had no problems. modern design classic.

[webbo]

i would tend to go for a gri-gri it will hold if your belay bunny lets go of the rope.also its less strenuous for them to hold you in place while you dog your mega desperate project.

[dave]

i would tend to go for a gri-gri it will hold if your belay bunny lets go of the rope.

not strictly true. they shoudn't be letting go fo the rope anyway. better to teach to some to be able to belay properly with a normal device, rather than relying on a GG, which can and have reulted in people being dropped.

[webbo]

i would advise basic tution with any device.however you get less rope slip with a gri-gri especially when attempting to hold the more well built climber.

[Bubba]

especially when attempting to hold the more well built climber.

   Well yeah, I am about 5 stone heavier than her.

[Fiend]

Specifically, ATCs have always felt good to me.

The "simple device + careful education" route is definitely the one to go down IMHO...

[webbo]

the last time i got the missus to belay me.i made some comment about her not paying the rope out fast enough.at this she threatened to unclip and leave me to it. :shock:






i've never dared to ask her to spot me.

[si]

but if I was going to do some sport climbing with my g/f

Are you drunk?
Dont be such a fool man! What if she enjoys it? Or worse is good at it?

Come on think of yer fellow male climbers :D

[Bubba]

She'll probably be better than me in no time - she's skinny and nimble, not a lardy old git like me  

[Pantontino]

If there is a 5 stone differential I wouldn't let her use an ATC. They are pretty slick (which is why people like using them), but if you take a big whipper, you might find yerself closer to the ground than you'd hoped for.

I rate old fashioned sticht plates, but then I'm quite old fashioned.

[Pantontino]

Thinking more about it, a Wild country VC is a good modern option - more 'bite' in one orientation, and less in the other.

[underground]

Don't use a Gri gri bubbsikal, they're death on a stick and an effin expensive way to be dropped!

I've got an ATC, a VC and an SRC (IIRC, WTF?!) and IMHO, fo' Sel you want the VC or the SRC. SRC is like a compromise between a trad belay device (working off krab friction), but has a semi-locking function that you'd need to pull the top off to get it running again.

Trouble with GG's is the cam- it's a trick to get the rope paying out quick enough on clips without locking it, and a lot of folk do silly things like holding the cam shut or running the dead rope across it- even a little running rope through it stops the cam jerking and locking.

I got stopped 1 foot off the deck from a 30 footer by a very experienced and trustworthy belayer when the cam didn't lock for that very reason. Fuckin' shit me up and landed that geezer in A&E with no skin on his hands....

Anyways, just borrow my gear anyway, it's taking room up under t' stairs...

[vivahate]

you could try one of these high friction devices, you could also try anchoring her to the ground/ giving her a sack of spuds to hold to even out the weight differnce.

i never trust grigris for more than indoor toproping

[mildrip]

From my experience of belaying Bonjoy a lot, I'd recommend a Gri-Gri.  If you're dogging routes (not that you would be), on the route a long time and pulling up the rope it can save a lot of effort and annoyance.  Learning how to use one is not hard but you do have to know the pitfalls