[TobyD]

Intending to go to Montgrony at new year, just wanted to mine the ukb hive mind for beta. .. especially, if montgrony is seeping is there another decent option nearby? Any other knowledge gratefully received! T

[tomrainbow]

Sadernes isn't very far away Toby and is much lower and more sheltered...really beautiful spot. I dare say some of it may seep but I am sure there will be stuff you will be able to do. I have an (old) guidebook for Sadernes if you want a borrow.

Good to see you had a successful trip to the Aveyron.

[jwi]

Sadernes has to be the best crag near Mongrony, but even if there are south-facing sectors wouldn't it be likely to be quite cold mid winter? I have no idea, as I've only been there in summer. There are some crags around nearby Berga that are unlikely to seep, but I've only spent half a day there 5 years ago...

How close is nearby? Within two hours (tiresome winding roads) you have Oliana-Tres Ponts-Coll de Nargo, Monserrat, Sant Llorence del Munt, Ariege, all of Andorra .... well over 10000 pitches of climbing.

[Bonjoy]

We went to Montgrony in mid winter and there was no seepage, but the weather had been good. It's an awesome location -due to hilltop situation the views/skies/sunsets are stunning. There are some good hardish slabby sectors which would probably not seep. We tried Tres Pont for a day but it was a bit too shady and cold really. We did experience a bit of snow when at Montgrony which was a first for Spain for me.

[TobyD]

How close is nearby?

Within an hour I guess, hopefully not necessary and I'd just climb at montgrony. Thanks for beta everyone. Gaia sounds pretty good, anyone who's done it (bonjoy?) how hard is it?

[Bonjoy]

Yes I did Gaia. Seemed for 8a, not hard, not soft. Think I did it in a session but it was at the end of a six month trip. Great climbing. Quite short and bouldery by Spanish standards.

[Bonjoy]

If you’re after a steady 8a try Paruala d'Eston. Must be fairly soft as it’s one of my few 8a onsights

[Steve Crowe]

Gaia is 7c+ in the guidebook, I think it did get 8a originally.

Other excellent 8a’s are available though.

[TobyD]

Gaia is 7c+ in the guidebook, I think it did get 8a originally.
Other excellent 8a’s are available though.

I actually wasn't really interested in it being 8a, the only grade I'd seen was 7c+, just sounded like a classic. Cheers for the info though. That 8a you mentioned Bonjoy, sounds good as well.

[Steve Crowe]

I’d agree that Paruala d'Eston is very good. It’s in the shade all morning, sun in the afternoon.

Calabruix is one of the classic routes of the crag. It still gets 8a+ in the new guide but most people I know who have climbed it think 8a. Regardless of the grade it is a brilliant and sustained test piece.

Great crag, brilliant for onsighting mileage too.

[JohnM]

Hi Toby,

Montgrony is very good but I can imagine it will get very cold up there in winter and even the road up to the Monastery could close if it snows a lot. Gaia is a really good 7c+, one of the best I have done!

I can ask a friend about Sardenes as it is his local crag, although considering he migrates to Siurana every NY might mean it gets too cold (he is Spanish though!). It does look like a stunning place though and it is not on the radar of most Brits. Just another huge gorge in Spain full of climbing you have never heard of! This video gives you a good impression:



I might be around Northern Spain myself around that time and if the weather is good in that region I would be keen to climb there if you fancy hooking up for a couple of days?


 

[TobyD]

Hi John, yeah possibly, my plan was to check the weather forecast a week or two before and move  to plan b if Montgrony is going to be too cold. We're likely be staying in an air BnB so we can cancel it and go elsewhere if necessary. Hopefully Montgrony will be fine though, seems plenty of folk have had good weather at that time