UKBouldering.com

Roof Warrior (Read 2392 times)

TobyD

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3827
  • Karma: +88/-3
  • Job offers gratefully accepted
Roof Warrior
June 21, 2018, 11:46:29 pm
Difficulty with following bits: 1)heel hooking move to get from RH Gaston by bolt 3 to LH sidepull at the back of the roof; almost done but anything really cunning here?
2) headwall from slot RH to undercut LH seems hard...

205Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1148
  • Karma: +126/-0
#1 Re: Roof Warrior
June 22, 2018, 04:30:59 pm
Difficulty with following bits: 1)heel hooking move to get from RH Gaston by bolt 3 to LH sidepull at the back of the roof; almost done but anything really cunning here?

It's a few years since I did it but from what I can remember;

Keeping my right foot (and leg) below me once I'd put the left heel in seemed to make a big difference (rather than leaving it off to the side if that makes sense?). Opens your body up for the move to the sidepull which made the difference for me.

Quote
2) headwall from slot RH to undercut LH seems hard...

That's because it's the crux  ;). I found the best bit of the slot was the left hand side of it which I think required a bit of piano playing to get my hands sorted. There should be a fairly obvious left foot to rock up on.

Good luck.

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal