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Krag Klub 433 11th -17th June 2018 (Read 5659 times)

tomtom

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Krag Klub 433 11th -17th June 2018
June 18, 2018, 08:28:41 am
Good morning.

M: Team leadership training course (arrived late). I only got bored twice - so probably a decent course :)

Tu: Team leadership training course (finished early!!)

We: Anston - on my way back to Manchester.
FFS. BetaBlocker. People find this piss easy - they flash it - lots of different beta. Me, I just cant seem to fold myself in and over the lip well. Burnt myself out over 30-40 min on this and decided its not worth it any more (betablocker - not life in general, or climbing etc..). Moved on to Alpha - which presented a fresh set of challenges. Managed the first moves to the shelf fairly quickly (LH up to crimp below shelf from the sit - work feet up - bump LH over the top onto the jug) - then got acquainted with the pockets. FUCK ME they're sharp - well they feel OK, but then when your full weight comes onto them... So - worked the next couple of moves then powered out - and decided I could only have so many attempts before the pain got too much and bailed. A bit of a pants session in many ways - but a new problem to try :) Took 1:40 to get back over the woodhead (aaaaachhhh)

Th: Childcare

Fr: Rubicon - quick hit (only had 4 hours for the round trip and climb).

First - On Millers Tale the peg/hold that stuck out at about chest height has fallen off (post from Mark on FB about it) - which makes the lunge up right for the RH high crimps quite a bit harder (have to trust evil smeary ripples).
 
Second. FFS. Kudos. I think I'm going to give up on this too... despite making progress last couple of visits it felt (a) horrible and (b) really hard. Anyway, moved onto the Press - which felt (a) horrible (b) really hard BUT (c) strangely enjoyable... Made progress - repeatedly slapping up and around the crimp - over dragging across etc.. so getting there. Left after an hour or so - strangely done in.

Sa:

Su: Good fathers day shizzle. Allowed to lie in bed until 8 - then early pub lunch in Helsby (superb) - potter around the hilltop and did a couple of problems sans mat in the quarry. Its funny - the boy says rocket instead of rock - so I'm rocket climber - and my shoes are rocket boots :D Later allowed to scoot to the Depot for 90 min or so - good session after taking ages to get going. Flashed another purple (a real fight - and a good fight too) and worked out how to do a few more. Surprisingly little endurance (session endurance).

Whats interesting (to me at least) is that having climbed pretty much exclusively on the white stuff over the last 6-8 weeks - when I come back to the wall, my deadpointing and contact strength is really really good. Lots of snap and hold..

spidermonkey09

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#1 Re: Krag Klub 433 11th -17th June 2018
June 18, 2018, 11:45:21 am
M - rest and stretching, bit of foam rolling.

T - Almscliff after work with a friend from Australia. She got Overhanging Groove and Great Western done and I did Black Wall Eliminate. What an absolutely brilliant route! Fortunately no dogs needed rescuing this time.

W - rest. Worried about knee pain.

T - Kilnsey after work. draws were already in the Ashes but some of them were really long, so asked if I could go up and change them around. Went up with about 6 draws on my harness but the section to the eyes felt about 6a so decided to just crack on. Top section went smoothly, bar an unexpected foot slip at the boss, and made it to the jug for the first time with a bit of a shout. Bit boxed but managed to relax and the top wall felt fine. Very unexpected doing ti first go! One of the best routes I've done in the country. Tried Frankie (desperate) and Ground Effect (midgy) before it got too much and went home.

F - rest.

S - Malham. Lovely to be back. Did Tremelo second go after spooning the sequence first go when feeling really fresh. rested 15 minutes and did it again, fighting the whole way, which was quite satisfying. Had a loooong rest and then managed to flash Space Race with some excellent beta from the chaps working it; a great way to finish. Psyched to see the fitness training paying off.

S - Trollers Gill. Mileage day doing a lot of low 7's. Highlights were Jim Grin and Barguest Original (definitely the better option than the direct finish). Haslam was nice but really cruxy and not 7b+ the way I did it; to avoid the rest out left would be stupidly eliminate.

'Healthy soreness' in the arms this morning! Great few days on the limestone, feel pretty fit and climbing well before trip to Ceuse in a few weeks. Physio booked for Friday evening to check out knee problem. Psyched to get stuck into something hard again; plan is to have a project at each of the big 3 and just try them all as conditions suit. Supercool at Gordale, Predator at Malham and Mandela/Urgent Action at Kilnsey, queue dependent.

Coops_13

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#2 Re: Krag Klub 433 11th -17th June 2018
June 18, 2018, 12:16:06 pm
STG: 1-4-7 on mid-rungs. UK 7C
MTG: Max hangs

M: Yoga
T:
W: Arch. Large rungs - 1-4-7 leading R and L, 1-5-7 R, close L, 1-4-6 on middle rungs, strong on R and L. 2 6B+, 6C, 6C+ on moonboard. Matched PB of 5 muscle-ups in a row on rings. Then climbed problems on new set.
T:
F:
S:
S: Arch. Large rungs - 1-4-7 both arms, 1-5-7 R, close-ish L. 1-4-6 mid-rungs, touched it R, not too close L. Did three-month long board project on 50. Set and climbed another hard problem.

After a couple of months of dieting and my trip to Magic. I let it go with glee this week. Lots of beer and fatty foods. Need to rein it in before I bounce back up in weight... Pretty psyched on my campusing as 1-4-7 on middle rungs seems relatively achievable. I think this will be my indoor goal for a bit before getting back on the fingerboarding, if my pulley ever arrives...

Andy F

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#3 Re: Krag Klub 433 11th -17th June 2018
June 18, 2018, 12:43:03 pm
Thanks Tom

Mon - short fingerboard session, focused on 1 arm hangs on the big slot
Tues - Hangar. Did most of the new set, but a few were rendered much more difficult due to the comp problems for Saturday
Wed - rest
Thurs - good fingerboard session, again focusing on 1 arm hangs.
Fri - rest
Sat - was due to meet up with Toby, but the forecast and early rain meant a change of plan. Depot, tried the new purple V5-7 set. Flashed lots, left 6 undone, so either a) I'm going better than expected or b) it's an easy set. I'm going with b). Lots of other problems in a 4 hour session.
Sun - bonus session at the Hangar. Did a fair few of the qualifier problems but felt tired after yesterdays exertions. Then did most of the womens and kids final problems, suprisingly.
Had 1 🍺 with a meal for fathers day, but the boys said I was allowed. No other 🍺 in the week (or month). Weight has dropped slightly and I feel light, both physically and mentally  :2thumbsup:

sdm

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#4 Re: Krag Klub 433 11th -17th June 2018
June 18, 2018, 01:22:10 pm
Moved on to Alpha - which presented a fresh set of challenges. Managed the first moves to the shelf fairly quickly (LH up to crimp below shelf from the sit - work feet up - bump LH over the top onto the jug) - then got acquainted with the pockets. FUCK ME they're sharp - well they feel OK, but then when your full weight comes onto them... So - worked the next couple of moves then powered out - and decided I could only have so many attempts before the pain got too much and bailed.

I found a couple of strips of tape tamed the pockets nicely. Just make sure you apply it before it tears through the side of your finger ie after about 1 attempt.

shark

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#5 Re: Krag Klub 433 11th -17th June 2018
June 18, 2018, 01:38:44 pm
Black Wall Eliminate, The Ashes, Tremelo and a flash of Space Race ! What a week - well done Spidermonkey. 



shark

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#6 Re: Krag Klub 433 11th -17th June 2018
June 18, 2018, 01:51:04 pm
TT - keep me posted on Anston and Rubicon visits - Id like to join you.

Weight 11.1-3 Average 156.0 sown 1.0lbs

M.As Nicks ankle is twatted we knocked Tuesday on the head and I went out at 10ish to Tor on my own. Hot and muggy with an occasional breeze. Managed to get through the start 4x (previous best2x) but fell off each time on the karate kick (Redpoint nerves?). Managed a link after from kneebar into THFML. Went to Xbrook. Felt tired but repeated JR.

T. Tor with Ben. Bit too keen and got there 4ish. Baking. Tried to get the karate kick move wired but couldn’t even dog it. 5 burns from the start 2 failing on the kick and 3 failing to hold the swing around to the kneebar. Shoulda gone to Xbrook

W.

T.

F.Tor on own late morning. Cloudy warm but not too humid occasional breeze. As part of warm up worked on karate kick move. First two redpoint attempts failed on swivel into knee bar. Third go got through and almost did the karate kick move but foot slipped out of niche. Felt tired and jaded and was contemplating taking a week off then out of the blue redpointed all the way thru to tickling the high left edge on THFML. (Jack Pal was my witness)  ;D Final go failed setting up for the kick. Drive to Kendal. Eve  :pissed:

S. BMC AGM. Eve  :beer2:

S. AM Drive back. PM Out to Anston with Ben so he could try Soul Crusher again but for some reason he was struggling on the first move. I did OK on it considering

New high point on Bens. Off to Xbrook later to try Moffatrocity and then Tor tomorrow to try Anger Management. Hopefully get progress on these too.

spidermonkey09

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#7 Re: Krag Klub 433 11th -17th June 2018
June 18, 2018, 02:05:38 pm
Black Wall Eliminate, The Ashes, Tremelo and a flash of Space Race ! What a week - well done Spidermonkey.

Cheers; for clarity I've had a few sessions on Tremelo, I didn't just rock up and do it second go!

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#8 Re: Krag Klub 433 11th -17th June 2018
June 18, 2018, 03:04:32 pm
I've got two weeks to share because I forgot to post last week..

W/E 10 June
Mon: A warm and relatively unpleasant session at Boulderbar but surprised myself by doing a new 7B in a few goes (it may have been morpho). Followed up with a rather hard Crossfit session in the evening.

Tues: Crossfit. Another hard session.

Wed: 2 hours in the Moonboard 2017 setup. Ticked some 7As and 7A+s. Another tough Crossfit session afterwards

Thurs: Boulderbar. Not a great session.

Fri: Crossfit with a hangover.

Sat: Moonboard again in the heat. Plenty of 7As.

Sun: Crossfit. Lots of deadlifts.

W/E 17 June
Mon: More Moonboard. More 7As and 7A+s - actually started enjoying the 2017 setup. More Crossfit in the evening.

Tues: Crossfit in the middle of an absurdly busy day.

Wed: Another busy day capped off by getting onto a train to Innsbruck for my first bouldering trip in over a year.

Thurs: Zillertal - Kaseler Alm. First day on rock in a year. Managed to drag myself up two low 7s and then lank a 7C. Not sure I can take it, but the ego was boosted.

Fri: Went to look at Zillergrund Wald, but didn't like the look of it in my own with two mats so went to Magic Place instead and did some 7A+s and a 6C+ - all quite quickly. Long moves on good holds on a steep wall - my bag.

Sat: Sundergrund - what a beautiful valley. Ticked a great (soft as anything) 7A as a warmup and then dragged my way up Man In The Mirror, which felt like proper 7B+, so pretty happy with that. Finished off on Dynafit at Magic Place. Utterly toast.

Sun: A quick 8km run around Innsbruck before getting on a train to go home.

Really happy with my three climbing days in Zillertal - it's a beautiful area, with enough problems and variety for me to find problems that suited me and let me get a couple of relatively low-admin ticks for the first time in over a year.

shark

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#9 Re: Krag Klub 433 11th -17th June 2018
June 18, 2018, 03:17:01 pm
Black Wall Eliminate, The Ashes, Tremelo and a flash of Space Race ! What a week - well done Spidermonkey.

Cheers; for clarity I've had a few sessions on Tremelo, I didn't just rock up and do it second go!

Oh dear. A shit week then  ;)

Nibile

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Power Club

Mon - gentle fingerboarding, one arm back3 test: avoid like the plague; system, lock offs 4x5; low PE 2'43". Weights, a beautiful complex: high pulls, power clean, push press, overhead walk. 
Tue - rest.
Wed - snatch pulls 60 kg 5x5. DL singles up to 130 kg. Yay! Front lever pulls x5, lock off x15" back to back x3. Phew.
Thu - Doms.
Fri - rest.
Sat - rest.
Sun - rest.

High intensity, low volume. So happy about the deadlift! :-)

nai

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Nice one Spidermonkey  :great:

M -  Cornice, Powerplant session 6. Nearly bailed but can't remember why.  Psyche wasn't raging but....
Up to equip, mostly yarding on draws as a warm up, opted to abandon one of my tactical changes from last week and worked a minor beta tweak using an intermediate during the final hard move.
First attempt made it to the intermediate but couldn't move my right foot, felt like it was due to being too stretched so abandoned that too.
Second go I knew it was on as soon as I made the rockover to latch the flake above the roof and still felt like I was on a working burn, had a small moment making the final hard move to the incut flake but tensed up and held on for a quick shake before the final nervy moves.
Had a quick look at Ouijaboard but heart wasn't in it, tried to OS Corniceman but the reachy bit got me, RP'd it no problem.

T rest

W Cornice, had a look at Ouijaboard but it didn't inspire, not of sufficient quality to put multiple sessions into it. Switched draws into Bored and had a flash attempt which ended just before a shake out. Set off on a repoint with forearms feeling like they needed a little longer (like a couple of days longer), made a few errors and that ended up at the same place, think that was my 6th tie-in so no surprise to be powered out.

Th rest. Physio with Tim in the evening, tighthness around the right shoulder slowly easing, nice to see a bit of progress but not another set of exercises to perform.

Fr - wished I hadn't agreed to go to WCJ Cornice, would have been top connies in the breeze that it was sheltered from.  Flailed up the warmup, Incapacity Benefit, twice. Got on Free Monster, think I did all the moves but couldn't do the crux consistently and there wouldn't be many attempts per session. Sacked it when my finger made a worrying clunk while it was stuck in that horrible slimy slot of a pocket.
Had another go at IB and failed again but realised my sequence for the crux was whack and got it evetually at a 4th attempt.

S shoulder rehab & mobility with plenty of hip, leg & forearm thrown in for good measure (probably 2 hours worth in all before you all start thinking it was a slack day)

S rest

Started the week cruising 8a and finished it scraping up 7a+.  Need to find another 8a that suits soon or I'll have to admit that I did an 8a rather being an 8a climber.

T_B

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Good work on PP. Have you been on The Ogre? I thought that was really nice rock and moves.

nai

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Cheers. No never tried the Ogre, the reachy description puts me off, probably not easy to get partners for session after session either.  Did try K3 yesterday but found it very hard, now planning to get on Jug Jockey while it's dry and hopefully get that done quickish then go back to K3 or try Unleashing.

Andy F

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Nai, I'm currently on Unleashing. If you want any weak person beta I'd be happy to oblige.

nai

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Cheers Andy, if (or more likely, when) I get on it I'll be in touch

nai

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Ok Andy, JJ was a non-starter so I tried Unleashing and managed everything except the moves back right from the big blocky undercut to the flakey undercut before the final wall to the chain.

Any clues what to do there?  It's too far for me to span, do you use the sidepulls above despite having to move back down?  Seems like an awful lot of wasted effort. 

Edit: Actually could you go up for the good sidepull, bump LH onto the crimp then make the move off that :-\

TobyD

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Incidentally nai if you want to try the ogre sometime soon I'm keen

Andy F

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Nai here's my sequence:

From the first  undercut at the start of the crux, LH in the good part, LF high on a polished hold, clip with RH then RH into the blocky undercut. Bounce up slightly and bring LH to wide pinch left of the bolt. RF onto the polished ramp and LH out to good crimp. Then LF bridge wide to ticked spike.

Breath, RH up to the 'ear', RF up to good rightwards pointing foothold. LF next to it then RF out to just under the little blocky undercut. LH to flat crimp, RF onto good foothold right of the bolt, stand and rock right to the big undercut, go to the RH end to avoid fiddling round. There are LF nubbins to help push you across.

Hope this helps.

nai

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Cheers Andy, I'd missed the wide pinch.  So you don't use the big obvious undercut above the first good crimp, is that too far left to bother with?

That means it's effectively six hand moves, between the two undercuts, feels so much longer.


nai

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Incidentally nai if you want to try the ogre sometime soon I'm keen


Cheers , maye I should have a look before I dismiss it but I really am put off by all descriptions saying harder/desperate for teh short.  Keen for Chee Tor though, loads of trad routes I've not done.

TobyD

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Incidentally nai if you want to try the ogre sometime soon I'm keen


Cheers , maye I should have a look before I dismiss it but I really am put off by all descriptions saying harder/desperate for teh short.  Keen for Chee Tor though, loads of trad routes I've not done.

can do thursday next week,but might be a little warm. i'm not exactly a giant, it'd be good to share beta.

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Toby & Ian - if you haven't done Boobs at Chee Tor I'd highly recommend that. Much less cruxy than the Ogre (which I couldn't do), and on brilliant rock. It's certainly right up your street Toby.

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Toby & Ian - if you haven't done Boobs at Chee Tor I'd highly recommend that. Much less cruxy than the Ogre (which I couldn't do), and on brilliant rock. It's certainly right up your street Toby.

Nice one mate thanks for the tip.

Andy F

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Cheers Andy, I'd missed the wide pinch.  So you don't use the big obvious undercut above the first good crimp, is that too far left to bother with?

That means it's effectively six hand moves, between the two undercuts, feels so much longer.

I find that undercut, while good, is too far away to be of use. Going straight up cuts out moves and saves energy. You're right about the 6 hand moves, but there are about 11 foot moves to get comfortable to clip the last bolt. I don't bother clipping the second to last, it just gets in the way.

I'll be there in the morning, until about 12:30 if you're around.

 

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