[spidermonkey09]

M - Rest

T - Depot. Stinking hot again. Some half hearted circuits on jugs and some FOC. Went quite well after a long break.

W - rest.

T - Kilnsey after work. Good conditions for a change. Tried 50-5; my god, desperate boulder problem. Good session; four goes up it, fell off the top 3 times. Good fitness training.

F - rest. Went to physio re: knee and finger. Sods law dictated the knee was not actually hurting so took a long time to pinpoint the problem. Weak glutes it seems; I have some exercises to do which will hopefully do the job. He also had a look at my finger and suggested capsuilitis was the problem; some general finger exercises to do to try and help this along while also climbing lots. Worth going.

S - Kilnsey. Climbed with Nai of this parish. Tried Mandela. Terrifying first go up which was mostly aid climbing. Went up four more times over the course of the day, did all the moves and ascertained that its going to be extremely pumpy on the link! Not sure its 8a+ but it is a sod to work. Should hopefully link it to the crux next session but could fall off there for ages.

S - rest, mostly watching sport. Football was good followed by a glorious hundred from Jos Buttler; what a player. 5 more days of work until Ceuse....

[Coops_13]

STG: Train fingers
MTG: UK 7C

M:
T: Arch. Found some new beta for campussing, push with other arm as pulling through. Big rungs. 1-4-7 both arms, 1-5-7 both arms, got to 1-5-7.5ish. Middle rungs, closeish 1-4-7 on both arms, 1cm off R arm leading. Climbed new set of problems. Matched PB muscle-ups on bar - 11. Other rings and core exercises
W:
T: Arch. Big rungs. 1-4-7, 1-5-7, 1-5-7.5ish with R arm leading. Mid rungs. 1-4-7 R arm leading YYFY, close with L arm. Lots of problems on new set on roof and ice cube.
F:
S: Peak Lime. Hannibal 7C felt easier than before linked through to move before stab up to crimp. Have to do harder beta to miss out pocket. Fingers feeling tired on any links so moved on. Tried Paint it Black 7C, didn't seem too bad. Linked first two moves and did top section. Need to come back with more finger strength. Flashed Somebody's Head 7A, v soft. Went and flailed on Beginner's and Griff's before going to Stoney. Worked some of Figure of 8 7B+ and did Tom's There and Back 7A+ to finish before going to a pub to watch the rugby
S: Anston. V tired and hungover. Not much of note but repeated Beretta 7A+ and did Shallow 6C+

Managed indoor aim of 1-4-7 on middle rungs which I'm pleased with. Unfortunately this means I have to start fingerboarding again  Been eating and drinking a lot these past couple of weeks, weight remaining below 80 kg, need to moderate this...

[tomtom]

Thanks for starting the thread SpiderMonkey...

Tu: Anston. Worked the higher moves of Alpha until my fingers couldn't take the pain any more... made progress. Good.
I STILL can't figure out BetaBlocker... tried a different sequence but just can't make it work... grr.. Great chips afterwards...

Fr: Woodwell - Got the SS to Rigpa on the first proper attempt For once worked Not Bad Dave when I was fresh(ish). Its frustrating as I can work all the moves in isolation (not strong enough to link or make several lunges in a row yet) but cant get close to the top out!!


(apologies for chainsaw noises in the background..)

Su: Quick hour at Helsby.

[duncan]

Thanks Mr Monkey.

STG/MTG - on hold
LTG: 5.13 at 60

Saw a proper physio. this week who agreed with my self-diagnosis of capsulitis aka ‘frozen shoulder’. This is a term sprayed around a lot but, when accurate, it takes months to recover and does not respond to anything other than time. There is reasonable evidence that vigorous stretching and other very active rehabilitation tends to slow recovery. Being passive is not my style. I hope we’re wrong because this most likely means I’ll have to take the summer off and it’s shaping up to be a cracker. I’ve cancelled an upcoming 5 day Pembroke trip and the chances of getting any climbing done when I’m in Malaysia are decreasing.

In other news I managed a 40kg pick-up with the 18mm edge using my now-good arm. This must mean something...

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - nice quick complex: good mornings, rows, high pulls, press 10x5 30 kg. Leg raises from bar 10x3. Exhausting. 31 degrees.
Tue - rest.
Wed - weights; dumbbell complex: bentover lateral raises, rows, high pulls, presses.
Thu - boxing bag.
Fri - rest.
Sat - gentle fingerboarding; system, lock offs: 2xfrontal + 4xlateral x6: Hard. Power cleans 80% 5x6. Some squats. Torrid.
Sun - rings, dips, L-sits. Some squats. High pulls, bentover row complex, brutal.

A friend of mind did a powerlifting comp, I am very very tempted.

[tommytwotone]

Goal: Font 7anything


Good week as I got a pass for a few days away on my own so got to enjoy a) not being relentlessly awoken at 4.30am every day and b) some good but not-too-hot weather.


M - nowt much.
T - nowt much.
W - half day at work, then off to North Lees. Set up in camping pod and chipped off to Burbage North for a nice few hours of soloing. Finished off by realising I'm not strong / good enough to even do the basic 6b+ slopey arete thing on Remergence any more!
Porter Brook pizza and a couple of beers at the campsite after, and an early night.
T - Slept in till 9:30am(!), then met up with Nai and tomtom (and mini-tomtom) back at Burbage North for a dad's pottering session. Good, chilled day out - tried Small Is Beautiful (nope), Fallen Slab Arete (nope) and some eliminate at Burbage Bridge (still nope).
F - Another lie-in, then up to Curbar Mini Walls area. Nice time getting some mileage in in the shade. Did the "7a" there but no way I'm taking that for it. Finished up with a look at Art Of Japan but not one for a weak fat man on his own with only 1 pad.
S - nowt, back to early starts, then a drive down to Cambridge to see family.
S - awful night's sleep (early riser thrown out of routine), then drive back to Leeds.


Can't work out if I enjoyed being away or not really. Was nice to chill / get some sleep / enjoy the overall beauty of the Peak in the perfect weather, but pretty depressing to find out how far I have gone backwards.

[shark]

Weight 11.1-3 Average 156.8 up 0.8lbs

M. AM Manhandling and moving a fuck-off heavy cast iron radiator Evening. Xbrook. Bit of a breeze but still not great conditions. 6 burns on Moffatrocity. 5 getting into JR two of which were tickling the rail. Felt bionic on first two goes but messed up sequence

T. AM Tor. Breezy fresh conditions for a change - almost autumnal. Battered from previous night and thin tips. Went up Anger Management. Did the link from the hole easily up until the last pop for the break when all my finger stamina departed. Second go up mainly to rework Push Up start then lowered from hole

W.

T. Fresher weather. Had meant to have two rest days but couldn’t resist going out especially as hotter weather forecast to be on way. Xbrook. 4 progtressively better burns on Moffatrocity getting into JR. Best go slightly overshooting on the rail (see clip below)

F.AM AM Tor OK conditions but tired. Two goes up Anger Management. One working go then second go led from ground to hole getting a strange and sudden pump after all the hard moves just before the hole. Dogged headwall and realised Nicks easier reachy starting sequence on the headwall also worked for me if I used an unobvious foothold in the break. Put some effort in to see if the very last move could be re-engineered similar to Nicks way but I think lack of reach is a definite stopper there. Decided going on Bens not a good idea and three days rest were in order. Eve Drove to Devon

S. Farm work

S. Farm work   

Struggling with motivation with this heat but getting desperate for a tick. Meeting Nick at 7am tomorrow at Tor tomorrow <gulp>

[Andy F]

Mon - rest
Tues - Hangar. Felt very tired, 2 day Doms after the weekends exertions. Pottering for 2 hours.
Wed - rest.
Thurs - good fingerboard session, 10s 1 arm hangs on the middle rung each side x20 was a new pb.
Fri/Sat - rest, family stuff.
Sun - Cornice early doors. 5 runs up Unleashing. Go 3+4 got into the middle of the crux and made basic errors. Go 5 got a move further (going for the good second crimp) and missed it due to not looking at it. Good progress, just need to improve redpoint technique at my limit.
Went over to Two Tier, put the clips in Blockhead. Bashed it out next go, felt easy, so my day fitness is improving.
Zero beers this week. Weight now 9st 8. The lack of booze is showing in many positive ways.

[nai]

M -  Cornice. Bit torn between trying a new project and getting a tick.  In the end got back on Bored, took one attempt more than expected but managed it.  Had a quick look at K3 which felt nails.

T - shoulder mobility & conditioning

W - Cornice again. Tried Jug Jockey, made it into a real faff unable to get the draw in at the lip before finding my clipstick reaches from teh floor Then couldn't do the move at the lip and decided to cut my lossses.  Might try again at some point, feel like I should while it's dry. 
Had a look at Unleashing instead and managed all the moves except the final one into the undercut close to the top but it sounds like a lot of the moves I did were unnecessary anyway so will have to refine next time.

T met up with tommytwotone and tomtom at Burbage, mostly just gentle pottering and catching up but somehow managed to do Fallen Slab Lip which I've never managed to pull off the ground previously.  Almost got Mermaid 10 years on from the last time, forgotten what a great couple of moves they are.

F shoulder mobility & conditioning

S Kilnsey with, who I eventually twigged was, spidermonkey.  Quite warm and still.  Three goes up The Ashes. 3rd one was a redpoint which failed 4 moves into the hard section. Worked a better sequence but was too done in for another go, fairly please with progress on it though, need to get more efficient on the lower section and just remember the moves above. Stunning route, the top looks so good and climbs so nicely.
Had a go on Comedy, might have been a bit done in by then, scraped up it b2b with beta but couldn't do the big move at the 2nd.

S Kilnsey with moose.  Boiling. Ummed and ahhed about what to do, couldn't imagine doing the physical moves of The Ashes or Comedy in the heat so decided to try Frankie reasoning that it was already in the shade and that I'd probably be able to complete it in a day.  Turns out it's not the sort of route for a high fear day but after a couple of shaky working goes I set off on Redpoint. Only it took about 10 attempts, at least 20 minutes and much frustration before I made it over the initial bulge, and I'm not convinced that the rope wasn't a little too tight.  Soon forgot what I was doing and fell off and it became quite an ordeal with the spaced bolts to reach the top and strip it.  Really felt like I should have done more but was totally done in after just three tie-ins.

Maye not the right call to go to Kilnsey in the end, might have been better heading to high crags in mountains for trad adventures. Hey ho, wanted to try these routes for years so now I have an idea of how to adjust training ahead of a return, possibly in September.

Need a few days off, feeling pretty second hand,  It would be ag ood week to do it in this heat but going to honour tuesday and Thursdays arrangements then have 3-4 days off.

[moose]

S Kilnsey with moose.  Boiling.
Maye not the right call to go to Kilnsey in the end, might have been better heading to high crags in mountains for trad adventures.

Still, I am sure you will be relived to know that my pasties and pork pies seemed to survive my dry-bag-in-the-beck refrigeration strategy....  well, I have not yet succumbed to salmonella! 

[nai]

Excellent, I hope they live up to expectations.

[highrepute]

Looking dialled in on that sequence.

[shark]

Looking dialled in on that sequence.

Cheers - Apart from forgetting a handhold and getting my feet up too early at 36 secs.

 

[highrepute]

Looking dialled in on that sequence.

Cheers - Apart from forgetting a handhold and getting my feet up too early at 36 secs.

Do you find you get much benefit from the fan? Been thinking about getting one for a while. When I can get out is a bit restricted at the minute so anything that optimises my sessions would be worthwhile.

[Fiend]

Fucking fan at the crag!! Seriously pro lol.

[shark]

Do you find you get much benefit from the fan? Been thinking about getting one for a while. When I can get out is a bit restricted at the minute so anything that optimises my sessions would be worthwhile.

Primary benefits so far have been for fingerboard sessions, blowing bbq smoke away and - most importantly - being able to say I have at least one fan.