[shark]

11.2-3 Average 157.0lb down 0.6lb on last week

M.

T. AM Tor. Tom came too. Cooler as forecast but not mint. 3 goes on AM. Spent some more time on a small hand flick move that kept shutting me down on the link looking for ways to re-engineer the sequence. Realised my original sequence was fine and I just needed to stand up into a high gaston rather than lean away on it. Was pretty annoyed that I’d wasted x number of burns on the last few sessions failing on the move because of this basic error. Afterwards I did three good burns on Ben’s from the kneebar. Unfortunately for those present it was in my underpants as I’d forgotten my shorts.

W.

T. AM Tor with Nick. Cloudy a bit humid. 2 goes on Anger Management. Go 1 applied new micro beta and got the link I was after from hole through headwall to break falling off going left on break. Go 2 got high but busted setting up going for break. Went on Bens. Linked from kneebar to going to high edge on THFML and then second try did kneebar to finish  . Tried start a few times but didnt quite get to kneebar. Moved on to Crag X as an experiment. Got close to doing JR twice which was unexpected

F.

S. 8am The Tor on a Saturday unusually! Virtually deserted contrary to expectations. 2 goes on AM and second go got the link I was after from hole to falling off the last boulder move to the Body Machine belay (V5 unless you can lank it) Tried to tweak the move whilst up there but the original beta was best. Did the move 3x in a row then a 4th time linking in from the traverse. Stripped route and Nick went home. Tried Bens from start and eventually linked into kneebar falling off setting up for karate kick. Long rest then did kneebar rest to top. Went to X. Felt busted but persisted and rewarded with a repeat of JR. Mega day.

S.

Great to have progress not only in terms of improved links but also in terms of my session capacity particularly as I was stung by criticism earlier in the year from Paul who said I had no depth. Conscious that I haven’t ticked anything since last December when I went Greece so keen to get at least one of the current projects over the line so fingers crossed I’ve not peaked

[nai]

M rest
T rest
W Cornice, back on powerplant. first time in almost 2 weeks. Struggled a bit and felt like a poor session, only reached my previous highpoint once although I did link from the chunky undercut to the top, so all the hard climbing.  Made some tactical changes and found a slight tweak for the upper wall.
Th rest
Fri Powerplant again, one very good attemp came to within one move of the incut flake just below the top but couldn't find the hidden foothold.  Felt like a poor session but just wasn't very consistent.
S ended up driving some of my daughter's Brownie pack to Cadbury World when their coach failed to turn up. Managed to resist most offerings.
S fingerboard, could tell it had been a few weeks

[spidermonkey09]

M- rest and foam folling

T - Depot. Had to tape tip which wasn't ideal. Ruined my skin on new sets on the circuit board but got royally pumped so not a bad session all in.

W - rest and rolling.

T - Kilnsey session after work. Pretty good conditions. Back on The Ashes,  two really good redpoints; fell off going to the boss and then going to the ear. Climbed like a spanner and kept losing my feet; worked out a new sequence and linked from eyes to top before stripping it. Going to be pumped as sin up there  on the headwall on the link so hopeful I don't drop it...

F - rest and pub after work.

S -  rest and pub again.

S - Kilnsey again. Strange session; conditions were mint while I was belaying but wind kept dropping everytime I pulled on! 4 goes up the Ashes, 4 goes falling off around the slopey boss. Best go was falling going for the jug at the end of the crux sequence. Probably one of the best fitness sessions I've had but would have preferred to just do it! Back on Thursday and over the weekend hopefully so fingers crossed I'll get it over the line.

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - quite tired from Sunday. Some shoulder stuff, weights. Managed to injure my right wrist in some mysterious way.
Tue - rest.
Wed - tried this test: deadlift 60% (80 kg), EMOM sets 5x12. Don't try it. One arm hangs on 1,5 edge, not bad despite 24 degrees and 63% humidity.
Thu - DOMS. Let me tell you again: don't try it.
Fri - DOMS. Weights, boxing bag.
Sat - rest.
Sun - rest.

[duncan]

STG - Manage aches, pains and other ailments.
MTG - A classic Pembroke E5; a proper 7b+; a long route somewhere interesting I’ve not visited before (currently all on hold).
LTG - 5.13 at 60

No entries for last four weeks as my shoulder is screwed. Initially thought it was a cuff tear (see 427) but is now clear that there is an element of capsulitis (“frozen shoulder”) on top: significant passive movement loss and a lot of morning pain that takes a while to subside. The second often follows the first.

Whatever it is, it’s getting better, very slowly, but I’m some way off putting on a t-shirt comfortably let alone climbing. This is a bit frustrating, especially with the glorious weather, but it’s been a good opportunity to give my fingers some targeted training they badly need. The good news is I can still do ‘pick-ups’ with my DIY rock-rings, arm by my side, and have progressed from 32.5kg to 37.5kg with my left (better arm) on a ~17mm edge. Still woeful. Right (painful) is lagging a bit, but the shoulder is limiting more than the fingers. I’m doing max. hang type sessions: 10 second duration at about 90% MCV with 3-5 mins rest after each go and two complete rest days after each session. Elbows and fingers tolerating this well so far. It will be interesting to see if it makes any difference to real climbing.

Plan: more of this kind of thing.

[Coops_13]

Managed to successfully get sub 80kg for Magic Trip.

Two Week post:
M 28th May: Paris - walking
T: Indoors. Comp set, did all yellows and a red (red one). Did a long red on the roof. Progressed on board project - only tried at v end of session
W: Indoors. Completed all the Blues and the Yellows. Retroflashed a hard purple-yellow to show my mate beta then did a load of back and shoulder stretching
T:
F:
S: 0345 start to Magic Wood. Arrived c.1330. Walked in and did Scrubs 7A to warm up. Went up to Jack the Chipper 7C and did it after working out the moves. First 7C, so psyched!
S: Oh-Birgit 6B+. Flailed around on Smeagol 7B for an hour (basically front lever practise) as Blown Away was a bit wet. Was too knackered to finish Blown Away later on that day. Finished with Big Cheese 6C

M 4th June: Rest
T: 1st session on Supernova in the morning to suss out moves before connies got bad. Went and did Mordssprung 7A+ before doing Morgenlatte Low 7B+ and a 7A variant of the Zombie dyno. Finished the day with a second session on Supernova to refine beta
W: Warmed up on some classics Blue Skies of Mine, the Crack, Merlin before doing Panzerknacker 7A. Went and finished off Blown Away 7B
T: Rest
F: 0600 start to get Supernova 7C in good condition. Managed to send it first proper burn of the day after warming up. Felt not too bad, was so psyched. Not so psyched on the naked river run forfeit I had to perform after  Flashed U-boot to end the day
S: Knackered. Wonderboy 5 took three goes... Did Rotzkiebel 6C to finish the day (and trip)
S:

Mega psyched to do my first two 7Cs after a few months of training and a bit of dieting, for once a Magic trip that exceeded expectations! Video of Blown Away and Supernova (PG version) below:

[tomtom]

Nice one Coops. Tor³ Shark!

OK... a tough week to go climbing - as TTjnr got poorly on Sunday eve - and got progressively more cold/snuffly/coughy throughout the week before a late night visit to out of hours docs on Weds eve and AB's etc.. so I had to come home early from work on Monday and spend chunks of tues and Weds looking after him whilst MrsTT was at work... I've got shit loads of work on too - so it meant working late in the evening - when we were both not getting much sleep as the boy was waking up every hour or so... Sessions planned at Anston on Monday and Wednesday gone...

We: Allowed out to Depot by MrsTT for 1 hour. Had a bit of a mental 45-60 min climb where I managed to burn myself out in that time. But, flashed three purples and did another 2-3 (well above normal levels). So a really weird session - moving well, pulling hard, but it didn't last long...

Th:

Fr: Boy was getting better so given most of the day off by MrsTT as reward. Fucked off work I had to do, and went up to Woodwell with the intention of quickly polishing off the SS to Rigpa (which gets 7B+). I was moving like I had lead in my pockets - everything felt slow and heavy. Took a stupidly long while to work out 3-4 fairly straightforward moves then was easily powered out.

Sa:

Su: Up early and up to Woodwell again. Psyched - moves all worked out - nearly got it 2nd burn, but then powered out again. Forgot my quite precise body position for the crux move and it just didnt work. Figured it all out again and ran out of gas.. Still rested properly - worked hard - but no joy.

Frustrating - but a decent week salvaged from what could have been nothing...

[Yossarian]

Mega psyched to do my first two 7Cs after a few months of training and a bit of dieting, for once a Magic trip that exceeded expectations!

Totally syked by this, and your weight loss. Bravo. I might have to recruit you for Team Beefcake...

[Coops_13]

Mega psyched to do my first two 7Cs after a few months of training and a bit of dieting, for once a Magic trip that exceeded expectations!

Totally syked by this, and your weight loss. Bravo. I might have to recruit you for Team Beefcake...

haha cheers. It was only 4 - 5 kg but it made all the difference 

[Andy F]

Thanks Shark

Mon - rest
Tues -Hangar. Decent session, did most of the new set, made some progress on one of the cave V7's
Wed - rest
Thurs - fingerboarding, felt strong, good.
Fri - rest
Sat - The Cornice. 5 runs up Unleashing. Worked a better foot sequence for the start of the crux. Had a couple of burns on the sharp end, got into the middle of the crux each go but my head stopped me going further. The last moves (which previously had felt very sketchy) now feel much more solid.
I've not had a 🍺 for nearly two weeks and feel lighter. Lets hope this translates into getting Unleashing finished.

[shark]

Good effort with the booze Andy. Wish I good say the same. Good luck with Unleashing