Currently my home board is set at 40°. After having trained on this board for more than a year I have become quite comfortable with this angle and am now contemplating making it steeper.
I have trained on the local wall's 45° board and was still able to use small holds with poor feet. My home board is quite small, approx. 7ft wide and 8ft high, so about 3/4 the size of a moonboard perhaps.
I feel that if I am going to make the board steeper, considering its a small board, it would be most effective to make it as steep as possible whilst still allowing me to use small holds and small feet. I would like to adjust the board to atleast 50°, but also toying with the idea of 55°, or maybe even more.
I've never climbed on anything steeper than the local wall's 45°board, I can climb problems up to about 7B at this angle so think I could manage climbing on a 50°, but fear that at 55° or beyond certain holds on my board would become unusable/ I would no longer be able to pull on small crimps/ and problems that were once fine at 40° would now become desperate at 55°.
I know alot of the big boys climb/ climbed on steepboards such as Ned, Malc, Gaskins etc and are/were ludicrously strong, so I'm quite drawn to the idea of making my home board very steep... I do like a challenge.
Any thoughts on this guys?