Dunno about brand but just make sure you get most of them in 18cm and a few longer. Stubby draws are useless.
Adam, it's funny you should mention that. Someone mentioned to me last week that someone had moved some of your perma-draws onto a route next door at Kilnsey. Not sure if that's true or not or if your post is related.
I'd like to add: Do not get lightweight crabs for sport climbing. They have more failure-modes than heavy duty sport crabs, and in sport climbing falls onto a single draw that simply must hold are commonplace.
Quote from: jwi on June 04, 2018, 11:59:15 amI'd like to add: Do not get lightweight crabs for sport climbing. They have more failure-modes than heavy duty sport crabs, and in sport climbing falls onto a single draw that simply must hold are commonplace.Good point. Having more than one bolt between you & doom in e.g. the Frankenjura is more the exception than the rule.
Having experienced the rope unclip itself from quickdraws twice, I get very uncomfortable with this and now use a draw with locking carabiners at both ends here. Edelrid’s pure slider allows high or sketchy first bolts to be stick-clipped with a locker. The pongoose clipstick can unclip sliders, not sure about other brands.
What are the Edelrids like to clip on lead? If it's no more difficult I might get one or two to place on critical bolts.
Personally I just go for something cheap with a clean nose and a fat tape. Everything else seems a bit marginal gains. These look decent https://www.decathlon.co.uk/x5-pack-slash-11-cm-id_8513711.html
Quote from: Will Hunt on June 05, 2018, 09:24:40 amWhat are the Edelrids like to clip on lead? If it's no more difficult I might get one or two to place on critical bolts.Not easy to get the rope into them, easier to use a screwgate and do it up, the edeldrid's are best used for the bolt end.
Quote from: remus on June 05, 2018, 08:02:53 amPersonally I just go for something cheap with a clean nose and a fat tape. Everything else seems a bit marginal gains. These look decent https://www.decathlon.co.uk/x5-pack-slash-11-cm-id_8513711.htmlAnyone used these? Even buying Petzl tapes to turn them into 17 or 25 cm draws would make it £60 for 5 which is pretty good value if they're any good