[highrepute]

If people think they are hard you should try some of the problems on the old school board or pretty much any other personal boards in cellars around Sheffield.

I found school board easier than the moonboard benchmarks - but not climbed in schoolroom since they corrected the angle but I thought that made it a bit easier?

[highrepute]

This theory is easily confirmed by noting that you'll rarely see any Londoners in Font but Magic Wood is chock full of them; scrapping their asses along the floor for their first 7a/b/c tick.

Hope you aren't talking about me here 

lol! If the glove fits!

[Yossarian]

This theory is easily confirmed by noting that you'll rarely see any Londoners in Font but Magic Wood is chock full of them; scrapping their asses along the floor for their first 7a/b/c tick.

Ow’ight wotcher Mary Poppingsh, this ‘ere im-posin' edifice what first meets the eye is one of ‘em 7As what I told you about, apples and pears, how’s yer father, get a look at ‘em Bristols, etc etc...

[gme]

[/quote]

Yes but this is a product and app that is supposed to be global so calibrating the grades with those used by a handful of people in half a dozen cellars 25 years ago doesn't make sense.
But that’s when the board was made and the grades started in the school. It’s just followed the original grades when reset.

I genuinely don’t think they are that far out. I can do 7B on the moon board when fit. 7B on the old board just. 7B on motherboard and 7B+ outside.

[gme]

If people think they are hard you should try some of the problems on the old school board or pretty much any other personal boards in cellars around Sheffield.

I found school board easier than the moonboard benchmarks - but not climbed in schoolroom since they corrected the angle but I thought that made it a bit easier?

Not me. Did a fair few 7Bs last winter on the moonboard but only managed woodogy on the school a problem I must have done 100s of times.

[teestub]

Do you think a steeper board is more of a weakness for you gme? Have the 7b’s you’ve done on the moon worked to your strengths, smaller moves on smaller holds or something?

[gme]

Do you think a steeper board is more of a weakness for you gme? Have the 7b’s you’ve done on the moon worked to your strengths, smaller moves on smaller holds or something?

Having climbed on the old school board for years I would think I should be better on it. I find it brutal now though so maybe that’s it.
I have been on beastmaker boards up north at the same angle and most of the 7As wouldn’t get 6B on the moonboard but suggest they are overgraded.
Dans board at Eden certainly isn’t though and again makes the moonboard seem easy.

[teestub]

The steep board at Eden is by far the hardest I’ve climbed on and they seem to have made it even harder recently. I think the combo of boards there is near perfect and I’ve heard he 20 degree board is really good too.

Anyway back to the sponsored content...

[SA Chris]

Which Eden?

https://www.edenrockclimbing.com/

The opening of the new one in Edinburgh seems to have escaped mention or comment on here, looks great. (off topic)

[teestub]

The OG Carlisle one, looking forward to checking out the burgh one at some point.

[SA Chris]

Yeah me too. Close to IKEA, so family can be occupied...

[Fiend]

Eden Edinburgh is ace 

[gme]

I was talking about the Carlisle one. Not been to the Edinburgh one yet since it opened but will be up there come winter. Guessing boards will be of a similar quality.

The Carlisle ones grades make the moonboard look a path.

[Coops_13]

This theory is easily confirmed by noting that you'll rarely see any Londoners in Font but Magic Wood is chock full of them; scrapping their asses along the floor for their first 7a/b/c tick.

Hope you aren't talking about me here 

lol! If the glove fits!

I'll be on peak lime this weekend if anyone wants to come watch me get spanked by the English equivalents...

[tomtom]

Did Fleetwood Mac do a song called Moonshark Odyssey?

[shark]

I was in a downbeat mood yesterday and headed down to the Foundry Climbing shop yesterday for a bit of retail therapy. Paul and Keith had been giving me a load of grief about my addiction to blancos and I realised that I'd never tried on the instinct lace-ups. I thought theyd be too wide given Instincts rep for wideness but they were pretty snug. Headed down stairs to try them on the Wave. Not many there not surprising on a hot thursday afternoon but Ben was there with his daughter. Obviously had just done the school run and come in for a quick hit. Had a chat and as he was just warming up thought what better opportunity to get to know how the Moonboard worked.Get a guided tour from the man. Only in Sheffield!

Even Ben warms up off the Moonboard and he encouraged me to do the same so I turned the big fan on and made a half arsed effort on the Wave. I then switched on the App but had forgotten my log in details so we just went off Ben's. Being a klutz I also thought you'd have to plug your phone into the Moonboard to get the lights to show the problems but off course its remote electronic magic. He showed how you can record ascents, comment on problems and log sessions. Some of the probelms have been logged with hundreds of ascents. There is a whole global community thing going on.   

I alternated goes with Ben as he set me a series of 6A+'s. Some of which I flashed and others took a few goes. It was endearing how proud he was of those of his that he had set even at these lowly grades. It took a bit getting used to going for the hold above the LED light for some reason and a few times I accidentally went for the one below the light. The sharing of foot and hands on problems lends itself to high feet and dynamic movement which is going to be quite good for me I think. Some have complained of the rough texture of the holds but I thought they were OK especially given how hot it was but then again I was only on relatively easy problems.

So an excellent introduction that has broken the ice. I find boards generally confusing and strangely intimidating. The one in the Foundry is stuck right in the middle of the main hall so there is no hiding place. Next stop 6B ..once I find my log in details that is

[Mark Lloyd]

Not Just Sheffield Simon, had my first session on a moonboard at Hathersage Scarpa Boot Demo, Ben was setting problems for punters like me and then cruising up problems about 5 grades harder not stop. I was on cloud 9, it's was like having a kick about with Harry Kane. 

[shark]

  Nice. I'm still a little starstruck 

[IanP]

Not Just Sheffield Simon, had my first session on a moonboard at Hathersage Scarpa Boot Demo, Ben was setting problems for punters like me and then cruising up problems about 5 grades harder not stop. I was on cloud 9, it's was like having a kick about with Harry Kane.

It is one of the amazing things about climbing.  I've been a Gordale quite a bit and recently its been 80s hero's time.  This week Martin Atkinson (first ascentionist of Supercool) was on Defcon 3 while Ben attempted to onsight Supercool (very impressive effort failing at the pocket after the second crux) - very cool (or even super-cool  ) to see.