the shizzle > MoonBoard

Moonshark Odyssey

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shark:
I was in a downbeat mood yesterday and headed down to the Foundry Climbing shop yesterday for a bit of retail therapy. Paul and Keith had been giving me a load of grief about my addiction to blancos and I realised that I'd never tried on the instinct lace-ups. I thought theyd be too wide given Instincts rep for wideness but they were pretty snug. Headed down stairs to try them on the Wave. Not many there not surprising on a hot thursday afternoon but Ben was there with his daughter. Obviously had just done the school run and come in for a quick hit. Had a chat and as he was just warming up thought what better opportunity to get to know how the Moonboard worked.Get a guided tour from the man. Only in Sheffield!

Even Ben warms up off the Moonboard and he encouraged me to do the same so I turned the big fan on and made a half arsed effort on the Wave. I then switched on the App but had forgotten my log in details so we just went off Ben's. Being a klutz I also thought you'd have to plug your phone into the Moonboard to get the lights to show the problems but off course its remote electronic magic. He showed how you can record ascents, comment on problems and log sessions. Some of the probelms have been logged with hundreds of ascents. There is a whole global community thing going on.   

I alternated goes with Ben as he set me a series of 6A+'s. Some of which I flashed and others took a few goes. It was endearing how proud he was of those of his that he had set even at these lowly grades. It took a bit getting used to going for the hold above the LED light for some reason and a few times I accidentally went for the one below the light. The sharing of foot and hands on problems lends itself to high feet and dynamic movement which is going to be quite good for me I think. Some have complained of the rough texture of the holds but I thought they were OK especially given how hot it was but then again I was only on relatively easy problems.

So an excellent introduction that has broken the ice. I find boards generally confusing and strangely intimidating. The one in the Foundry is stuck right in the middle of the main hall so there is no hiding place. Next stop 6B ..once I find my log in details that is

Mark Lloyd:
Not Just Sheffield Simon, had my first session on a moonboard at Hathersage Scarpa Boot Demo, Ben was setting problems for punters like me and then cruising up problems about 5 grades harder not stop. I was on cloud 9, it's was like having a kick about with Harry Kane. 

shark:
 ;D Nice. I'm still a little starstruck  :bow:

IanP:

--- Quote from: Mark Lloyd on July 13, 2018, 09:57:11 pm ---Not Just Sheffield Simon, had my first session on a moonboard at Hathersage Scarpa Boot Demo, Ben was setting problems for punters like me and then cruising up problems about 5 grades harder not stop. I was on cloud 9, it's was like having a kick about with Harry Kane.

--- End quote ---

It is one of the amazing things about climbing.  I've been a Gordale quite a bit and recently its been 80s hero's time.  This week Martin Atkinson (first ascentionist of Supercool) was on Defcon 3 while Ben attempted to onsight Supercool (very impressive effort failing at the pocket after the second crux) - very cool (or even super-cool  :whistle:) to see. 

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