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Moonshark Odyssey (Read 12387 times)

shark

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Moonshark Odyssey
May 23, 2018, 04:39:41 pm
I have never climbed on a Moonboard before and I have always thought it would do me good to get stuck in especially as there is one at my regular wall - the Foundry. Thought I would set up this thread as a public prompt to get involved.

First step - download the App....

shark

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#1 Re: Moonshark Odyssey
June 20, 2018, 09:03:16 pm
Finally got around to downloading app.

28,053 problems!

Have to log in the setup next. Ill be using the Foundry one. Anyone know what the setup is there?

highrepute

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#2 Re: Moonshark Odyssey
June 20, 2018, 09:54:22 pm
i think it's called something like moonboard masters 2017

shark

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#3 Re: Moonshark Odyssey
June 20, 2018, 10:09:11 pm
Cheers HR

Do you know which hold set? There is a choice of A, B, C, Original School holds and Wooden holds. Pretty sure it can’t be the last two as I think the Foundry one is mainly or all resin holds

Muenchener

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#4 Re: Moonshark Odyssey
June 20, 2018, 10:54:44 pm
Original School Holds are the little yellows.

C I assume must be the new big reds.

In which case A & B are black & white but I have no idea which is which.

Plattsy

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#5 Re: Moonshark Odyssey
June 20, 2018, 10:57:21 pm
All of them I think. Set relates to colour. There's black, white,  red, yellow and wood on the foundry set up.

andy popp

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#6 Re: Moonshark Odyssey
June 20, 2018, 11:50:11 pm
This thread is much less interesting than I was anticipating from the title.

shark

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#7 Re: Moonshark Odyssey
June 20, 2018, 11:59:41 pm
Thanks Muenchener and Plattsy

Andy - I’ll send you a postcard once I get to Ithaca

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#8 Re: Moonshark Odyssey
June 21, 2018, 07:37:22 am
Thanks Muenchener and Plattsy

Andy - I’ll send you a postcard once I get to Ithaca

Well, that’s going to take a while.
Still, Odysseus got home in less time than you’ve spent on the Oak...

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#9 Re: Moonshark Odyssey
June 21, 2018, 07:45:58 am
You got 28000 problems,
But the Oak ain’t one?

(Sorry J)

highrepute

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#10 Re: Moonshark Odyssey
June 21, 2018, 07:49:27 am
How many UKB users does it take to work the moonboard app?

tomtom

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#11 Re: Moonshark Odyssey
June 21, 2018, 08:08:23 am
How many UKB users does it take to work the moonboard app?

Depends how much sponsorship your website gets from Moon? Possibly? ;)

Oldmanmatt

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#12 Re: Moonshark Odyssey
June 21, 2018, 08:20:31 am
On a more serious note...

Currently I’ve set our board with just B (2017 masters(black)) only and the kickboard blocks. So filters set to “foot following hands”.

F’ing B’Jazeus, but supposedly 6A+ is a tall order! Even some of our Wads took weeks to put down a 7B.

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#13 Re: Moonshark Odyssey
June 21, 2018, 09:11:27 am
Yep grading is a bit of joke on a lot of the problems.

Oldmanmatt

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#14 Re: Moonshark Odyssey
June 21, 2018, 09:42:39 am
I had one kid, who I know is sending 7A/7A+ in a session, outdoors, without breaking a sweat and I’ve watched breeze through some of our harder test pieces, struggling to make a 6C on that board set. Even an “all-in-get-to-the-top” warm up, is embarrassingly hard...

Edit:
When I reset in a month or so, I wouldn’t do a single set again. Though I might try a single set with the screw ons.
Anyone else tried this?

Plattsy

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#15 Re: Moonshark Odyssey
June 21, 2018, 09:59:26 am
Dropped the top of a Ben Moon Benchmark 6B at the weekend. Possibly the most effort I've used to grab defeat from the jaws of victory.

Ticked two non benchmark 6Bs last night and felt like a reyt hero!

I'm pretty psyched for the moonboard at the moment.

dunnyg

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#16 Re: Moonshark Odyssey
June 21, 2018, 11:32:47 am
I think all grades should be sandbag grades, so a 6B on the board should actually be at least 6C+ outdoors etc.. Keep the indoor egos in check.

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#17 Re: Moonshark Odyssey
June 21, 2018, 12:06:57 pm
A friend of mine has a theory that the grades in London walls were massive sandbags because Londoners make infrequent weekend trips to the peak/font - probably in the middle of summer. Their indoor climbing will have done little to prepare them for the subtle nature of grit and sand-stone and they return to their city wall with stories of how hard 7a is. Grades in the walls are adjusted based on these experiences. This continues until they discover a more basic holiday destination such as Magic Wood.

This theory is easily confirmed by noting that you'll rarely see any Londoners in Font but Magic Wood is chock full of them; scrapping their asses along the floor for their first 7a/b/c tick.

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#18 Re: Moonshark Odyssey
June 21, 2018, 12:54:03 pm
I think the grades are fine. Hard but fine and the resent APP refresh has got rid of a lot of the anomalies.

If people think they are hard you should try some of the problems on the old school board or pretty much any other personal boards in cellars around Sheffield.

Out of the old school group in the 90s everyone climbed a grade or two harder outside than in and not because we were all technical gods but due to the fact that indoor grades were hard.

Muenchener

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#19 Re: Moonshark Odyssey
June 21, 2018, 12:57:48 pm
Dropped the top of a Ben Moon Benchmark 6B at the weekend. Possibly the most effort I've used to grab defeat from the jaws of victory.

Wuthering Heights (2016 set) is my Oak

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#20 Re: Moonshark Odyssey
June 21, 2018, 01:15:18 pm
This theory is easily confirmed by noting that you'll rarely see any Londoners in Font but Magic Wood is chock full of them; scrapping their asses along the floor for their first 7a/b/c tick.
Hope you aren't talking about me here  :shrug:

Oldmanmatt

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#21 Re: Moonshark Odyssey
June 21, 2018, 01:36:10 pm
I think the grades are fine. Hard but fine and the resent APP refresh has got rid of a lot of the anomalies.

If people think they are hard you should try some of the problems on the old school board or pretty much any other personal boards in cellars around Sheffield.

Out of the old school group in the 90s everyone climbed a grade or two harder outside than in and not because we were all technical gods but due to the fact that indoor grades were hard.


I’m not sure I will ever really grasp this logic.

I can’t deny it. After nearly six years of running a wall and being a setter, it’s undoubtedly true.
It’s also fair to say, that I can climb a lot harder indoors than out and I have a myriad of hypothesis (excuses) to explain that, but I’m also sure that the moves and grades are harder than their outdoor peers.
Pretty sure that 300mm of foam has a good deal to do with it, for instance...

But, where six years ago, our setting here was quite representative of the “real” grade, it’s crept up significantly.
As an example, I’ve not done much low grade stuff Outdoors for aouple of years; my limited time on rock I felt better spent slamming my head against a project. For all sorts of reasons I stopped climbing for a few months, that turned into a year (apart from a brief foray back into sport last Autumn, that scared me into restarting this year). So, a couple of weeks ago, I went back to just going out and Bouldering for fun. Deliberately not using a toppo, picking things I didn’t know and just tying it. Then, heading back and looking at the toppo over coffee to see what I’d done or not...
And was almost always way out on my grade guess, and usually down a V grade.
I mean, a Dartmoor V2 is (usually) a lot easier than I realised.
I came away fro the experience with new ideas and reset one of our V1-V3 circuits and I’m sure they’re in grade (pushing into V4 in some cases) and then climbed the other circuit in that range (set by someone else) and most of his stuff is seriously sandbag.

I think we spend so much time working on (both setting and climbing) the hard circuits, that we lose the objective ability to set or judge a lower grade. My ethos went something like “if I can flash it, in trainers, it’s V2/3, if I can flash it in shoes, it’s V4, if I have to think about it we’re heading north of V5” and so on.

Will Hunt

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#22 Re: Moonshark Odyssey
June 21, 2018, 01:44:21 pm
I think all grades should be sandbag grades, so a 6B on the board should actually be at least 6C+ outdoors etc.. Keep the indoor egos in check.

 :agree: :agree: :agree:


When it comes to outdoor grading, there is only one system I use:

If I flash it but have to try hard: 6B+
If I do it reasonably quickly: 6C
If it's completely nails and takes me ages: 6C+ (https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=358711 ; https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=438779)
If it's really amazing and absolutely needs a repeat, regardless of difficulty: 7A

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#23 Re: Moonshark Odyssey
June 21, 2018, 01:44:59 pm
I think the grades are fine. Hard but fine and the resent APP refresh has got rid of a lot of the anomalies.

If people think they are hard you should try some of the problems on the old school board or pretty much any other personal boards in cellars around Sheffield.

Out of the old school group in the 90s everyone climbed a grade or two harder outside than in and not because we were all technical gods but due to the fact that indoor grades were hard.

Yes but this is a product and app that is supposed to be global so calibrating the grades with those used by a handful of people in half a dozen cellars 25 years ago doesn't make sense. 

36chambers

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#24 Re: Moonshark Odyssey
June 21, 2018, 01:45:20 pm
This theory is easily confirmed by noting that you'll rarely see any Londoners in Font but Magic Wood is chock full of them; scrapping their asses along the floor for their first 7a/b/c tick.
Hope you aren't talking about me here  :shrug:

haha whether or not, I was sure thinking of you ;)

This theory is easily confirmed by noting that you'll rarely see any Londoners in Font doing something other than dynos, but Magic Wood is chock full of them; scrapping their asses along the floor for their first 7a/b/c tick.

FTFY

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#25 Re: Moonshark Odyssey
June 21, 2018, 01:47:10 pm
If people think they are hard you should try some of the problems on the old school board or pretty much any other personal boards in cellars around Sheffield.

I found school board easier than the moonboard benchmarks - but not climbed in schoolroom since they corrected the angle but I thought that made it a bit easier?

highrepute

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#26 Re: Moonshark Odyssey
June 21, 2018, 01:47:38 pm
This theory is easily confirmed by noting that you'll rarely see any Londoners in Font but Magic Wood is chock full of them; scrapping their asses along the floor for their first 7a/b/c tick.
Hope you aren't talking about me here  :shrug:

lol! If the glove fits!

Yossarian

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#27 Re: Moonshark Odyssey
June 21, 2018, 02:42:43 pm
This theory is easily confirmed by noting that you'll rarely see any Londoners in Font but Magic Wood is chock full of them; scrapping their asses along the floor for their first 7a/b/c tick.

Ow’ight wotcher Mary Poppingsh, this ‘ere im-posin' edifice what first meets the eye is one of ‘em 7As what I told you about, apples and pears, how’s yer father, get a look at ‘em Bristols, etc etc...

gme

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#28 Re: Moonshark Odyssey
June 21, 2018, 06:17:56 pm

[/quote]

Yes but this is a product and app that is supposed to be global so calibrating the grades with those used by a handful of people in half a dozen cellars 25 years ago doesn't make sense.
But that’s when the board was made and the grades started in the school. It’s just followed the original grades when reset.

I genuinely don’t think they are that far out. I can do 7B on the moon board when fit. 7B on the old board just. 7B on motherboard and 7B+ outside.

gme

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#29 Re: Moonshark Odyssey
June 21, 2018, 06:20:35 pm
If people think they are hard you should try some of the problems on the old school board or pretty much any other personal boards in cellars around Sheffield.

I found school board easier than the moonboard benchmarks - but not climbed in schoolroom since they corrected the angle but I thought that made it a bit easier?

Not me. Did a fair few 7Bs last winter on the moonboard but only managed woodogy on the school a problem I must have done 100s of times.

teestub

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#30 Re: Moonshark Odyssey
June 21, 2018, 07:16:37 pm
Do you think a steeper board is more of a weakness for you gme? Have the 7b’s you’ve done on the moon worked to your strengths, smaller moves on smaller holds or something?

gme

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#31 Re: Moonshark Odyssey
June 21, 2018, 07:26:07 pm
Do you think a steeper board is more of a weakness for you gme? Have the 7b’s you’ve done on the moon worked to your strengths, smaller moves on smaller holds or something?
Having climbed on the old school board for years I would think I should be better on it. I find it brutal now though so maybe that’s it.
I have been on beastmaker boards up north at the same angle and most of the 7As wouldn’t get 6B on the moonboard but suggest they are overgraded.
Dans board at Eden certainly isn’t though and again makes the moonboard seem easy.

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#32 Re: Moonshark Odyssey
June 21, 2018, 08:32:08 pm
The steep board at Eden is by far the hardest I’ve climbed on and they seem to have made it even harder recently. I think the combo of boards there is near perfect and I’ve heard he 20 degree board is really good too.

Anyway back to the sponsored content...

SA Chris

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#33 Re: Moonshark Odyssey
June 22, 2018, 11:26:22 am
Which Eden?

https://www.edenrockclimbing.com/

The opening of the new one in Edinburgh seems to have escaped mention or comment on here, looks great. (off topic)

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#34 Re: Moonshark Odyssey
June 22, 2018, 11:56:09 am
The OG Carlisle one, looking forward to checking out the burgh one at some point.

SA Chris

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#35 Re: Moonshark Odyssey
June 22, 2018, 12:25:32 pm
Yeah me too. Close to IKEA, so family can be occupied...

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#36 Re: Moonshark Odyssey
June 22, 2018, 12:45:11 pm
Eden Edinburgh is ace  :2thumbsup:

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#37 Re: Moonshark Odyssey
June 22, 2018, 01:13:07 pm
I was talking about the Carlisle one. Not been to the Edinburgh one yet since it opened but will be up there come winter. Guessing boards will be of a similar quality.

The Carlisle ones grades make the moonboard look a path.

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#38 Re: Moonshark Odyssey
June 22, 2018, 03:35:41 pm
This theory is easily confirmed by noting that you'll rarely see any Londoners in Font but Magic Wood is chock full of them; scrapping their asses along the floor for their first 7a/b/c tick.
Hope you aren't talking about me here  :shrug:

lol! If the glove fits!
I'll be on peak lime this weekend if anyone wants to come watch me get spanked by the English equivalents...

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#39 Re: Moonshark Odyssey
June 22, 2018, 08:56:30 pm
Did Fleetwood Mac do a song called Moonshark Odyssey?

shark

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#40 Re: Moonshark Odyssey
July 13, 2018, 09:17:08 pm
I was in a downbeat mood yesterday and headed down to the Foundry Climbing shop yesterday for a bit of retail therapy. Paul and Keith had been giving me a load of grief about my addiction to blancos and I realised that I'd never tried on the instinct lace-ups. I thought theyd be too wide given Instincts rep for wideness but they were pretty snug. Headed down stairs to try them on the Wave. Not many there not surprising on a hot thursday afternoon but Ben was there with his daughter. Obviously had just done the school run and come in for a quick hit. Had a chat and as he was just warming up thought what better opportunity to get to know how the Moonboard worked.Get a guided tour from the man. Only in Sheffield!

Even Ben warms up off the Moonboard and he encouraged me to do the same so I turned the big fan on and made a half arsed effort on the Wave. I then switched on the App but had forgotten my log in details so we just went off Ben's. Being a klutz I also thought you'd have to plug your phone into the Moonboard to get the lights to show the problems but off course its remote electronic magic. He showed how you can record ascents, comment on problems and log sessions. Some of the probelms have been logged with hundreds of ascents. There is a whole global community thing going on.   

I alternated goes with Ben as he set me a series of 6A+'s. Some of which I flashed and others took a few goes. It was endearing how proud he was of those of his that he had set even at these lowly grades. It took a bit getting used to going for the hold above the LED light for some reason and a few times I accidentally went for the one below the light. The sharing of foot and hands on problems lends itself to high feet and dynamic movement which is going to be quite good for me I think. Some have complained of the rough texture of the holds but I thought they were OK especially given how hot it was but then again I was only on relatively easy problems.

So an excellent introduction that has broken the ice. I find boards generally confusing and strangely intimidating. The one in the Foundry is stuck right in the middle of the main hall so there is no hiding place. Next stop 6B ..once I find my log in details that is

Mark Lloyd

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#41 Re: Moonshark Odyssey
July 13, 2018, 09:57:11 pm
Not Just Sheffield Simon, had my first session on a moonboard at Hathersage Scarpa Boot Demo, Ben was setting problems for punters like me and then cruising up problems about 5 grades harder not stop. I was on cloud 9, it's was like having a kick about with Harry Kane. 

shark

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#42 Re: Moonshark Odyssey
July 13, 2018, 10:07:56 pm
 ;D Nice. I'm still a little starstruck  :bow:

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#43 Re: Moonshark Odyssey
July 13, 2018, 10:32:35 pm
Not Just Sheffield Simon, had my first session on a moonboard at Hathersage Scarpa Boot Demo, Ben was setting problems for punters like me and then cruising up problems about 5 grades harder not stop. I was on cloud 9, it's was like having a kick about with Harry Kane.

It is one of the amazing things about climbing.  I've been a Gordale quite a bit and recently its been 80s hero's time.  This week Martin Atkinson (first ascentionist of Supercool) was on Defcon 3 while Ben attempted to onsight Supercool (very impressive effort failing at the pocket after the second crux) - very cool (or even super-cool  :whistle:) to see. 

 

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