UKBouldering.com

New 8B+ at Biblins Cave (Read 8292 times)

shark

Offline
  • *****
  • Administrator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 7370
  • Karma: +530/-15
  • insect overlord #1
New 8B+ at Biblins Cave
May 20, 2018, 09:41:02 am
James Squire has reported on Facebook climbing the middle of the impressive looking roof at Biblinís Cave in Forest of Dean extending Godzilla Stand 8B by 3m to the lip of the roof and named Spaceship and graded 8B+ making it the hardest problem there. Linking from the 8B sit start done by Jonny Kydd is still to be done..

.
« Last Edit: May 20, 2018, 10:43:09 am by shark »

Duma

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4291
  • Karma: +165/-3
#1 Re: New 8B+ at Biblins Cave
May 21, 2018, 09:25:20 am
 :punk: This is great news, stupid hard and def a better problem as the original  finish was pretty much a hard match in the middle of nowhere. Pretty high by the lip too! The Wadzilla start into this would be the line of the cave, pretty much direct all the way from the back to the lip, get on it James!

remus

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1046
  • Karma: +44/-1
#2 Re: New 8B+ at Biblins Cave
May 22, 2018, 10:54:56 am
That's amazing! As Duma said it's the line of the cave and a very logical continuation.

shark

Offline
  • *****
  • Administrator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 7370
  • Karma: +530/-15
  • insect overlord #1
#3 Re: New 8B+ at Biblins Cave
May 22, 2018, 11:07:06 am
That's amazing! As Duma said it's the line of the cave and a very logical continuation.

Re Facebook comment Tom Peckitt reckoned this would be 8C

TomP

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 347
  • Karma: +48/-1
    • www.tompeckittclimbing.com
#4 Re: New 8B+ at Biblins Cave
May 22, 2018, 09:51:56 pm
For clarity, I thought possible 8c right from the back to the lip....which is most definitely on now!

monkoffunk

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 586
  • Karma: +51/-0
  • sponsored by black coffee and beta alanine
#5 Re: New 8B+ at Biblins Cave
May 23, 2018, 09:04:16 am
Would that be 8B into 8B+?

andy_e

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 8473
  • Karma: +250/-42
#6 Re: New 8B+ at Biblins Cave
May 23, 2018, 09:39:21 am
which is most definitely on now!

Step up to it Timmy...

36chambers

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1234
  • Karma: +90/-4
#7 Re: New 8B+ at Biblins Cave
May 23, 2018, 10:19:09 am
Would that be 8B into 8B+?

correct me if I'm wrong, but Godzilla Stand is 8A, and James' extension bumps it to 8B+. Doing the sitter and the stand is 8B, so the sitter moves, without the stand, should be around 7C-8A (I've never been there...). So the full line may be something like ~7C/+/8A into 8B+.

James Malloch

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 865
  • Karma: +27/-1
#8 Re: New 8B+ at Biblins Cave
May 23, 2018, 10:38:11 am
Would that be 8B into 8B+?

~7C/+/8A

Can't add anything but I think approximate double slash grades should be more common  :great:
Sod the haters.

Bradders

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 773
  • Karma: +42/-3
#9 Re: New 8B+ at Biblins Cave
May 23, 2018, 10:43:45 am
Would that be 8B into 8B+?

~7C/+/8A

Can't add anything but I think approximate double slash grades should be more common  :great:
Sod the haters.

Can we not just agree that it'll be very hard, a fantastic line and a great achievement for whomever gets it done and leave it at that?

Duma

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4291
  • Karma: +165/-3
#10 Re: New 8B+ at Biblins Cave
May 23, 2018, 10:44:10 am
There's 2 low starts, both given 8B: Godzilla sit, starts on the pillar on the left as for Peckitts Trav, and Wadzilla, starts as for Arch Angels on the right. I've had a play on these and Godzilla sit adds more moves but easier ones than Wadzilla. Think Godzilla stand was given 8A+ when Jonny did/graded the low starts. Now James has downgraded it to 8A.(though not sure I'd put too much store in that given how many times he must have done those three moves while working this and the low starts.)

36chambers

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1234
  • Karma: +90/-4
#11 Re: New 8B+ at Biblins Cave
May 23, 2018, 11:13:05 am
Can we not just agree that it'll be very hard, a fantastic line and a great achievement for whomever gets it done and leave it at that?

I was just trying to clarify what the full link might entail :sorry:

Can't add anything but I think approximate double slash grades should be more common  :great:
Sod the haters.

It's my go to response if anyone asks me how hard I thought something felt. Don't want to get call out for misgrading.

Duma

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4291
  • Karma: +165/-3
#12 New 8C at Biblins Cave
August 27, 2018, 03:01:21 pm
Looks like from his Instagram story that James has done the full line! (I understand this is the Wadzilla start into the Spaceship finish)  :clap2: :strongbench: :punk: :2thumbsup:
Sounds like Jonny Kydd repeated Spaceship at the weekend too!

36chambers

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1234
  • Karma: +90/-4
#13 Re: New 8C at Biblins Cave
August 27, 2018, 06:43:29 pm
Looks like from his Instagram story that James has done the full line! (I understand this is the Wadzilla start into the Spaceship finish)  :clap2: :strongbench: :punk: :2thumbsup:
Sounds like Jonny Kydd repeated Spaceship at the weekend too!

 :dance1: :dance1: :dance1:

Nice one James and Jonny!

AMorris

Offline
  • ***
  • stalker
  • Posts: 251
  • Karma: +31/-0
#14 Re: Re: New 8C at Biblins Cave
August 28, 2018, 05:07:32 pm
Having gazed up at the extension for a while, while I was living there, I honestly couldn't see holds. The full line has to be a 3 star 8C or I will eat my pink anasazi's. Amazing work by James!  :strongbench:

Doylo

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6450
  • Karma: +380/-7
#15 Re: Re: New 8C at Biblins Cave
August 28, 2018, 07:11:35 pm
A British 8C thatís actually good ?

AMorris

Offline
  • ***
  • stalker
  • Posts: 251
  • Karma: +31/-0
#16 Re: Re: New 8C at Biblins Cave
August 28, 2018, 08:18:28 pm
A British 8C thatís actually good ?

Doesn't feel right does it.

shark

Offline
  • *****
  • Administrator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 7370
  • Karma: +530/-15
  • insect overlord #1
#17 Re: Re: New 8C at Biblins Cave
August 28, 2018, 09:38:00 pm
We have a name and grade:

https://www.instagram.com/p/BnCTU7Gjd_2/
Quote
Five years and 30+ sessions brings the first ascent of 'The World Is Yours' 8C

 :clap2:

Kingy

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1352
  • Karma: +67/-2
#18 Re: Re: New 8C at Biblins Cave
August 28, 2018, 09:52:08 pm
Nice work James! Looks like the thread title needs to be changed to 8C!  :boxing:

shark

Offline
  • *****
  • Administrator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 7370
  • Karma: +530/-15
  • insect overlord #1
#19 Re: Re: New 8C at Biblins Cave
August 28, 2018, 11:09:47 pm
Nice work James! Looks like the thread title needs to be changed to 8C!  :boxing:

Done - for the recent posts

36chambers

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1234
  • Karma: +90/-4
#20 Re: New 8B+ at Biblins Cave
August 29, 2018, 08:18:53 am
Just out of interest, am I right in thinking we don't have a confirmed 8C in the UK?

Kingy

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1352
  • Karma: +67/-2
#21 Re: New 8B+ at Biblins Cave
August 29, 2018, 08:49:23 am
Just out of interest, am I right in thinking we don't have a confirmed 8C in the UK?

Not to my knowledge. What other candidates are there other than Gaskins' stuff?

teestub

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1159
  • Karma: +106/-3
  • Cyber Wanker
#22 Re: New 8B+ at Biblins Cave
August 29, 2018, 08:56:37 am
Seranata at Impossible Roof has had 3 ascents https://www.climber.co.uk/news/latest-news/dawid-skoczylas-joins-font-8c-club-with-third-ascent-of-serenata.html

All others proposed at the grade are Gaskins things I think, Dave Mac thought he had an 8C link up in Arisaig but then he climbed it too fast https://climber.co.uk/news/latest-news/dave-macleod-sends-lithium-in-arisaig-cave.html

Other potential contender is Bowden Rail, which seemed to take DV a long time compared to other 8b+'s
« Last Edit: August 29, 2018, 09:03:14 am by teestub »

36chambers

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1234
  • Karma: +90/-4
#23 Re: New 8B+ at Biblins Cave
August 29, 2018, 10:02:27 am
Seranata at Impossible Roof has had 3 ascents https://www.climber.co.uk/news/latest-news/dawid-skoczylas-joins-font-8c-club-with-third-ascent-of-serenata.html

All others proposed at the grade are Gaskins things I think, Dave Mac thought he had an 8C link up in Arisaig but then he climbed it too fast https://climber.co.uk/news/latest-news/dave-macleod-sends-lithium-in-arisaig-cave.html

Other potential contender is Bowden Rail, which seemed to take DV a long time compared to other 8b+'s

Good knowledge, I forgot there's an 8C on Impossible Roof

r-man

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Glory lurks beneath the moss
  • Posts: 4980
  • Karma: +190/-3
    • LANCASHIRE BOULDERING GUIDEBOOK
#24 Re: New 8B+ at Biblins Cave
August 29, 2018, 11:37:10 am
There are two 8Cs on Impossible Roof, Serenata and Serenation.

https://climber.co.uk/news/latest-news/breaking-news-mike-adams-climbs-his-first-font-8c-with-new-bloc-serenata.html

https://www.climber.co.uk/news/latest-news/mike-adams-blasts-far-eastern-limestone-with-two-new-font-8cs.html

(Bordello got downgraded following new beta.)

Also, another contender for 8C is Mixed Emotions at Kay's Nest. Which looks like an amazing line. Mike told me that unlike the limestone stuff, it was completely his style (heel hooks, slopers and squeezing) so it's possible he undergraded. Some strong climbers have tried and failed.





Fiend

Offline
  • *
  • _
  • forum hero
  • Abominable sex magick practitioner and climbing heathen
  • Posts: 10711
  • Karma: +479/-64
  • Whut
#25 Re: New 8B+ at Biblins Cave
September 03, 2018, 02:34:51 pm
Good photo on here: https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2018/09/new_font_8c_at_biblins_cave_from_james_squire-71695

It actually looks distinctly non-shit, pretty amazing for Brizzle-area natural limestone!!

remus

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1046
  • Karma: +44/-1
#26 Re: New 8B+ at Biblins Cave
September 13, 2018, 08:07:14 pm
Johnny Kydd has put up a video of the 8B+ Looks pretty mega by UK lime standards!

Wood FT

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2537
  • Karma: +136/-8
#27 Re: New 8B+ at Biblins Cave
September 13, 2018, 09:40:37 pm
Johnny Kydd has put up a video of the 8B+ Looks pretty mega by UK lime standards!

Wow, yeah, really does look impressive. feck.

Orrincoley

Offline
  • *
  • regular
  • Posts: 50
  • Karma: +7/-0
    • Orrin Coley Climbing Adventure
#28 Re: New 8B+ at Biblins Cave
June 16, 2020, 07:11:12 pm
James has added another 8C to Biblins - "Ambition"

From my understanding he first did an 8A+ called "The Avenue" a year or two back. Then added a sit start to that at 8B+ called "Keep it Real".

This is basically a high extended finish to "Keep it Real" which adds some crazy and big moves after the original finish.

Yoof

Offline
  • **
  • menacing presence
  • Posts: 176
  • Karma: +13/-0
#29 Re: New 8B+ at Biblins Cave
June 16, 2020, 11:26:29 pm
Bon job James! Super cool. Remember looking at that with him a couple of years ago, it has good holds and lets you use some funky tech, but connecting them (especially on the lower bit) takes some grit and a good bit of disregard for your shoulder ligaments.

Now for the half cave lip traverse starting up Punter Proof!!! (which is probably easier to be fair...)

Duma

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4291
  • Karma: +165/-3

Bradders

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 773
  • Karma: +42/-3
#31 Re: New 8B+ at Biblins Cave
June 17, 2020, 09:07:29 pm
Great stuff. Biblins has got to be up there with Parisellas for hard link ups now right? Harder, even! And better looking....  :worms:

sdm

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 325
  • Karma: +13/-0
#32 Re: New 8B+ at Biblins Cave
June 17, 2020, 11:36:42 pm
And drier too

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2020, SimplePortal