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Anston - Black Crow - Loose hold (Read 6436 times)

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Anston - Black Crow - Loose hold
May 13, 2018, 08:46:37 am
There is a hold on black crow that's rattling like a loose tooth, I'm wondering if anyone knows how to fix it. Pull it off and glue it back on again? Stabilise with glue around it now?

The hold is the left hand undercut just below the lip - in this video it is the one he uses at 14 seconds in

If it goes it would significantly change the problem, which would be a shame. If it doesn't get fixed I'd guess it will fall off sometime this summer given the volume of traffic Anston gets.

measles23

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#1 Re: Anston - Black Crow - Loose hold
May 13, 2018, 09:14:57 am
Looked like it had already gone when I was there on Tuesday  :(

There was a little collection of fragments under the problem guarded by a shoe lace, like a shrine in memory of a great problem..

Orrincoley

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#2 Re: Anston - Black Crow - Loose hold
May 13, 2018, 10:09:04 am
From what I understand someone had climbed on it and the hold basically exploded off in their hand into multiple pieces. Not really fixable from the sounds of it.

shark

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#3 Re: Anston - Black Crow - Loose hold
May 13, 2018, 10:23:08 am
From personal experience multiple pieces (if all there) can be successfully glued back together and then the whole hold glued back into place.

If there’s a will there’s a way. Whoever broke it and left it there didn’t have the will

cofe

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#4 Re: Anston - Black Crow - Loose hold
May 13, 2018, 10:15:14 pm
The three bits were still there yesterday if someone who knows how to do it fancies having a crack.

monkey boy

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#5 Re: Anston - Black Crow - Loose hold
May 14, 2018, 07:31:00 am
Poor Olly also fractured his wrist when he broke it.

bigironhorse

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#6 Re: Anston - Black Crow - Loose hold
June 19, 2018, 07:20:13 am
Does anyone have the hold and planning on repairing? Has it been done in current state? Looks like theres not much left for the left hand.

36chambers

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#7 Re: Anston - Black Crow - Loose hold
June 19, 2018, 08:44:29 am
The aforementioned three bits were still at the base of the problem on Sunday. It certainly looks climbable with what's left (it may even earn it's original grade now), but it does look sharp and grim. I'm certainly in favour of a fix.

Slightly off topic, but do people still pull on the wobbly lip hold on Magnum Eliminate? It was loose when I tried it last year (and I can't decide if it's worse) but having now broken a few holds elsewhere (sorry) I don't want to risk pulling on it.

Furthermore, the LH two finger crimp on Alpha is flexing and looks very close to coming as well (I think this has been mentioned elsewhere).

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#8 Re: Anston - Black Crow - Loose hold
June 19, 2018, 11:00:45 am
Furthermore, the LH two finger crimp on Alpha is flexing and looks very close to coming as well (I think this has been mentioned elsewhere).

Oh - felt OK last week - but I'm using it more as an intermediate rather than boning down my whole weight on it..

36chambers

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#9 Re: Anston - Black Crow - Loose hold
June 19, 2018, 11:22:25 am
Furthermore, the LH two finger crimp on Alpha is flexing and looks very close to coming as well (I think this has been mentioned elsewhere).

Oh - felt OK last week - but I'm using it more as an intermediate rather than boning down my whole weight on it..

I've seen people crank off it to go RH to the ramp (with RF heel in the starting undercut)

tomtom

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#10 Re: Anston - Black Crow - Loose hold
June 19, 2018, 12:20:05 pm
Furthermore, the LH two finger crimp on Alpha is flexing and looks very close to coming as well (I think this has been mentioned elsewhere).

Oh - felt OK last week - but I'm using it more as an intermediate rather than boning down my whole weight on it..

I've seen people crank off it to go RH to the ramp (with RF heel in the starting undercut)


Yeah - I can re-adjust feet and bump up again which probably puts less weight on it (my LH certainly doesnt feel overloaded)

bigironhorse

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#11 Re: Anston - Black Crow - Loose hold
June 19, 2018, 01:42:16 pm
Furthermore, the LH two finger crimp on Alpha is flexing and looks very close to coming as well (I think this has been mentioned elsewhere).

Oh - felt OK last week - but I'm using it more as an intermediate rather than boning down my whole weight on it..

I've seen people crank off it to go RH to the ramp (with RF heel in the starting undercut)

I did it like this last week and thought it felt a little concerning.

bigironhorse

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#12 Re: Anston - Black Crow - Loose hold
June 19, 2018, 01:59:22 pm
The aforementioned three bits were still at the base of the problem on Sunday. It certainly looks climbable with what's left (it may even earn it's original grade now), but it does look sharp and grim. I'm certainly in favour of a fix.


I'd be happy to have a go at repairing it myself but I haven't tried the problem before. I think it would need to be someone who knew exactly what the hold was like before it broke. I wouldn't want to risk making it worse or way easier!

tomtom

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#13 Re: Anston - Black Crow - Loose hold
June 19, 2018, 10:11:28 pm
OK - heres what the hold on Alpha looks and sounds like (from this evening - I didn't use it)



The crimp (top part) wobbles by 3-4 mm, but the wedge below it is also loose (both hollow sounding) and its the one below thats stopping the top bit falling out. so I would suggest that either
(a) bung lots of goop around both bits (probably not a long lasting solution but might do it)
(b) Gently prise off the lower plate/bit and the crimp block will probably then drop off easily - clean and glue both back on.

highrepute

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#14 Re: Anston - Black Crow - Loose hold
June 20, 2018, 07:55:55 am
(c) do nothing

tomtom

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#15 Re: Anston - Black Crow - Loose hold
June 20, 2018, 09:41:23 am
(c) do nothing

yup... it'll fall off sometime..

highrepute

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#16 Re: Anston - Black Crow - Loose hold
June 20, 2018, 09:51:42 am
I'm not an expert in these matters but who is?

I think it would be hard to do anything now with resin without making a mess - are there any big gaps that resin could be forced into? And it'd likely only be a short term fix anyway. It looks solid enough to me that prising it off could cause unwanted damage - but you've felt so perhaps you disagree?

tomtom

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#17 Re: Anston - Black Crow - Loose hold
June 20, 2018, 10:16:45 am
Im no expert either...

I think if you prised off the lower bloc (the one I tap first) then the top will drop out cleanly and as long as the bottom bloc wasnt in 20 bits it could go back together quite discretely..

Best people know at least - so they don't go yarding on it too much - or to maybe expect it might bust if they do.. rather than have an unpleasant fall/accident. I stuck something up on FB about it. Holds from black crow are still there...

Bradders

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#18 Re: Anston - Black Crow - Loose hold
June 20, 2018, 04:43:00 pm
That hold on Alpha has been like that for a long time, at least a year. I'd suggest do nothing but, again, I have zero expertise.

tomtom

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#19 Re: Anston - Black Crow - Loose hold
June 20, 2018, 05:35:44 pm
That hold on Alpha has been like that for a long time, at least a year. I'd suggest do nothing but, again, I have zero expertise.

Haydn posted on fb that it’s always been like that so...

36chambers

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#20 Re: Anston - Black Crow - Loose hold
June 20, 2018, 06:14:14 pm
That hold on Alpha has been like that for a long time, at least a year. I'd suggest do nothing but, again, I have zero expertise.

Haydn posted on fb that it’s always been like that so...

haha fair enough, I must not have been paying much attention when I climbed it last August.

 

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