[steven_thomas1993]

Hey,

Any and all beta for New Dawn (Malham) much appreciated.

It’s my first project at the grade, I’ve made some relatively good links so far after 2 sessions.

More specifically looking for beta on the boulder problem, where to rest and what position people are clipping the chains from.

Cheers

[shark]

Welcome to UKB 

The belay isn’t hard to clip and all rests are obvious.

Main tips are to extend the clip at the ledge at the end of the rising traverse so you can clip it from below the bulge.

On the start you can take a lot of the power out of it with a scrunched up move using an unobvious sidehold pinch up left and have your right foot in one of the pockets in the tufa and bridge against a small black vertical edge in the long undercut then rock in close and reach for the pegged out undercut pocket in the bulge.

Good luck. It’s an amazing burly route. Hard at the grade for a first 7c though it was my first at the grade (in the year you were born judging by your user name <gulp> )


.

[highrepute]

Main tips are to extend the clip at the ledge at the end of the rising traverse so you can clip it from below the bulge.

I'd encourage you to not do this and experience the feeling of rocking onto that bulge, pumped out your mind, quick-draw 2 inches from your nose but unable to clip it and knowing that if you peel off here it's going to be one hell of a ride. I'm getting sweaty tips just thinking about it!

Great choice for a first 7c.

If you're struggling for beta then there's usually someone at the crag more that happy to talk through all the sequences they've seen used since 1988. Just hang on a draw looking helpless and some will usually pipe up with some advice!

[Stabbsy]

Main tips are to extend the clip at the ledge at the end of the rising traverse so you can clip it from below the bulge.

I'd encourage you to not do this and experience the feeling of rocking onto that bulge, pumped out your mind, quick-draw 2 inches from your nose but unable to clip it and knowing that if you peel off here it's going to be one hell of a ride. I'm getting sweaty tips just thinking about it!

What he said. I've still got a great memory from my first redpoint attempt when I got to the end of the traverse and stuffed up my sequence. My right foot popped while I was moving my right hand to the next hold and I barndoored out, thinking for a second that I might hold it before the inevitable plummet. Had a great view across the Cove before gravity took hold!

[thekettle]

Having climbed this yesterday it's all very fresh!
The chain clip can be done with either R or L foot on the good flat hold, depending a bit on lankiness. I found swapping to LF on it so I could hold the LH crimpy sidepull in good balance was easiest (RH crimp far R), but if you can clip from the big LH diagonal rail then you shouldn't need to do the extra moves. I also didn't extend the clip at the end of the traverse, preferring to rock over L on a LH crimpy sidepull/undercut, getting my RF onto the big flatty before making a foot-height clip with RH. Feels runout but puts you in great balance for the clip, and the fall is harmless.
Lots of ways to do the start, I go for the hole with my LH, off a small RH undercut, which sets you up nicely for the next bit. Good rests at the 3rd clip, the twin tufas (before the traverse) and either side of the final clip.

[steven_thomas1993]

Thanks all, all helpful. I’ve taken the whip a couple of times...bit scary, but I’ll get over it, don’t intend on extending the draw on the run out as I reckon it’ll take away from the route and it’s not really too bad now I have beta sorted. Rests sound about where I have been resting, will need to get more comfortable in the tufas  I think.

Ahh I tried that small undercut on the boulder problem a couple of times, I reckoned getting the LH in the big undercut would be better, what foot beta did you use on that sequence 😊

[thekettle]

From the start, having moved hands from the tufa pinches into LH big undercut and RH edge, with LF on shiny edge (below LH) and RF in lower tufa hole:
LF up to vertical edge (on undercut rail), RH to small high undercut, step thru with LF to upper tufa hole (just above RF), bump RF far R to smear/flag, throw LH into hole, gurn, LF onto top of tufa.

[steven_thomas1993]

Nice, i'll give that a crack next session. Thanks