How pumped should I feel at the end of session?
This AeroCap stuff is all nonsense right?If your problem is getting pumped then climbing around for 25mins not getting pumped is not going to change that (not very quickly anyway). Are lattice to blame for this? Are climbers having entire session that are supposedly getting them fitter in which they are never getting pumped?
Will - 4x4s - I'd aim to be doing 4 sets of 4 routes and failing on the last route of the 3rd and 4th set. Pumped as possible is what i'd aim for.
I kinda like this little rant. AeroCap is getting an awful lot of attention. However, I get the impression that those being trained by lattice and those who have looked into it are still going and getting pumped into oblivion during certain phases of their training, but now that's not all they're doing. Quote from: highrepute on March 29, 2018, 01:54:01 pmWill - 4x4s - I'd aim to be doing 4 sets of 4 routes and failing on the last route of the 3rd and 4th set. Pumped as possible is what i'd aim for.Where did this general obsession with 4x4s on routes for very pumpy enduro training come from? Unless your wall is <10 m tall then surely this is far too many metres, and therefore much lower intensity, than required for your goal routes? To expand your running analogy, I'd suggest this fits very comfortably into the 'wasted miles' category. Also limiting your training reps/sets multiples of 4, which are just plucked out of thin air, means you lose a variable with which you can adjust your training.
In response to all the ranters:Where did you get the idea that aero cap training means not getting pumped? I think you mean ARC, which is bollocks. Aerocap training is just endurance training and involves sessions like:1) Long durations on the wall at mild pump throughout2) Long (~30-60 move) intervals with short rests, at the end of which pump levels should be high, but not terminal.I don't think there's any sound evidence for which kind of approach is better, so take your pick, mix and match or use yourself as a guinea pig
One question raised above is whether this sort of training is effective for British limestone. The Barrows Manifesto explains why it should be applicable (ability to shake out and recover at a rest. Ability to metabolise large quantities of lactic etc). Do you put store in this, Stu (notwithstanding your desire to take the piss out of barrows at every opportunity).
Quote from: Smith42 on March 29, 2018, 12:13:21 pmHow pumped should I feel at the end of session? Borrows once told me - Very tired and very bored.
I wouldn’t credit Barrows with anything.
use yourself as a guinea pig
Depends how long the route is and how high you get.