[Fiend]

Following my increasingly doomed attempts to get some "own routes" suggestions out of a mild-mannered UKB gentleman on Facebook (somewhat like getting blood from a cheshire sandstone bloc), I thought a thread might be fun, with a simple premise:

Suggest routes by yourself and/or other UKBers that might be fun for other people to do or that you'd like to hear about - and chat shit about UKBers' routes that you've done.

Not about blowing your own or anyone else's trumpet (what goes on in the CC huts stays in the CC huts), more about just celebrating what people have done - old or new, esoteric or classic.




Myself, I'd be after suggestions for stuff up to E4, hopefully clean enough to avoid abbing down, don't mind a bit esoteric though. No Avon E6s nor Helsby E8s for me alas....

[Will Hunt]

I suspect you're going to be met with a wall of modesty here. Why don't you kick us off with your best routes?
From me, there's only one thing I've done which merits a rope and it's just out of your price range - though to be honest you can't fall that far off it and hitting a pad on the ground on stretch would be fine. If you're happy to do that it could easily be called E4.

Black Annis at Sutton Clough. Fun for locals, but I wouldn't travel from Northumberland or wherever you are to do it when Earl Crag is literally a 5 minute drive up the road.

[andy popp]

Mea culpa ...

To be fair, I'd completely forgotten you'd asked me. Also, my crude routes list/diary is in the UK, where I'm not.

To kick things off, I thought both "Napoleon Complex" and "Hope Street" were surprisingly good and I suspect both are unrepeated. (alas, they're also E5). The one that surprises me is "El Guide Direct" in the Pass, which seems to have become very popular and highly regarded. I didn't think it was anything at the time and didn't even realise it was new.

[Fiend]

El Guide Direct!

Now that I have done, on the basis that it would mostly be jugs and good rests with one tricky section, except that tricky section was quite tricky. A satisfying route. I did it to warm up for Rimsky which I got very pumped on but still made it.

That's the sort of thing I am after

Myself, I've done some good newies but they are either in the far North of scotland or the Rhinnogs so aren't really suitable. There was Parthian Shit at Wyming Brook which I think the notorious Mark20 might have done and approved of the name, which was nice. My most suitable FA is a boulder problem tho, Black Orc in Glen Nevis, so off topic.

Will I think I remember Black Annis looking good? It's in some trees somewhere and you walk down a faint valley or something?

[Teaboy]

I've probably urged you to get on this as I've banged on about it to anyone who might be interested (and a few who won't) for the last 25 years; Hyndsight at Glyder Fawr (or Fach), one f the best single pitch routes I've done. Bit of a trek up for you I guess but otherwise fits the bill. The next day I did Cadwaleder over the other side of the valley (flatter walk in and that's ace as well). Otherwise have you done the two E3s in Cwm Pennant?

[andy popp]

"Napoleon Complex" and "Hope Street"

Both Helsby, I should add.

[Fiend]

Hyndsight is the monkey-up-a-stick E4 in Ogwen?? That's on my "persuade my partner to carry the rack up and get around to it some day" . What are the Cwn Pennant routes?

[Will Hunt]

Will I think I remember Black Annis looking good? It's in some trees somewhere and you walk down a faint valley or something?

It's a good feature and has some good climbing. For about 5 minutes after I topped out it was a solid 2 star micro-route. Then John cleaned the exit to a direct finish (which had been blocked before by the presence of an enormous block overhanging the top of the crag like a diving board. When this was levered off it made an extremely frightening noise as it rent it's way through the air, and when it hit the trees in the clough they shook as though Godzilla were passing through below). The direct finish adds about 2 extra moves and is loads easier than my route. So basically it's now not very logical to climb out right to the groove/ramp unless you're looking for hard climbing. I'd give it 1 star now for the nice moves and the attractiveness of the little ramp that you go for.

More info here:
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=25917.0
https://unknownstones.com/sutton/

If you'd asked about boulder problems I could have splurged about them but this is a topic for routes.

[tc]

How about a boulder problem that feels like a route? Do they count? If so, Widowmaker at Carrock Fell still hasn't been repeated as far as I know. The clue is in the name. Be careful.

[csl]

Footwork's boulder/route Siege of Orleans looks great at E5/7B https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=441188

[shark]

Would love to her that my more recent High Tor new routes got repeated:

Big Cigar One repeat by Nick Conway who belayed me
Dementia Unrepeated
Harvey Wallbanger Unrepeated
Happy Hour One repeat by Oli Grounsell

[andyh]

I'd love to hear about any repeats of the biggest roof on Froggatt^TM - https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=10902

Incredible position way above the trees. My partner couldn't repeat the crux slap but it might be a bit morpho. Possibly E4 if you like that sort of thing...

[petejh]

Some of the more esoteric or neglected newies I've done.

Summer - most have had no or one/two repeats.
Triskelion - aesthetic spiraling arete in the top quarry above Llanfairfechan ('Penmaen West') - E7 or 6 6b with a safe fall. One repeat.
At the Heart of It All - opposite Triskelion on other side of the same quarry level. Aesthetic arete with a bold slap to the top, E5/6 6b.. 6a if tall? One repeat?
Imminent Departees - Craig y Forwyn. Caff did this and likened it to Brail Trail. Very tekkers thin face climbing above a big, swinging (but safe) fall. E7 6b or c
Senior Citizen Smith - in Gideon Quarry. Dolerite. Bold slab to an overhanging headwall which you traverse powerfully on undercuts and crimps, with a safe swinging fall - E5 or 6 6b. One repeat.
Whilst in Gideon and almost next door - Synthetic Life. Loooong 7a+ on dolerite - it's really really good!
K2fa - big (for the uk) tufa in a sea-level cave on the G.Orme - 6c ish. Cool cave with potential for a fun line through the roof on massive blobs.
Red Meat, 7b. quite a few repeats. Such a good massive wall!
Acrophobia, 7c. same but only one or two repeats. Very airy at the top - hence the name..
Trophy Wives of the Astronauts. All are on Craig Pen y Gogarth.  Huge wall, great adventurous 'sport' climbs.. Go there in afternoon sun late summer!
Mack Attack - Diamond. Unique 7a with chimneying and a transfer out onto a hanging face.
Shine On - Diamond - Ace quality endurance 8a, 30 metres with no hard moves. 2 repeats?

Winter - all these either haven't had a repeat, or only 1 or 2 at most.
Frozen in Time, Cwm Silyn. VIII 7 or VII 6. Bold icy mixed groove with a pull through an ice overhang at the top above a 20m fall.
Adam Rib, Craig Cwm Du. VI 7. Atmospheric scrambly 3 pitch rib route with a sting in the tail.
Grey Ghost, Glyder Fawr. VI 7. Fun mixed corner 1st pitch to an ephemeral ice smear on 2nd pitch.
Lateo, Clogwyn Du. X 10. Steep, technical, intimidating and pumpy.
Wide Asleep, Clogwyn Du. X 9. As above. One of my happiest onsight experiences.
Travesty Direct, Clogwyn Du. IX 9/10. Hard 'boulder-problem with axes' above a wiggy fall; to gain the chimney leading into Travesty.
The Charlatan, Clogwyn Du. IX 9. Two great technical pitches. Had a couple of repeats.
Theatre of the Mind, Clogwyn Du. IX 9. Utterly brilliant icy mixed - it's got everything including a hanging ice chandelier!
Are You Having it About the Woolly Mammoths? X 9/10. Gently overhanging face to a massive hanging ice dagger - didn't expect to see this in condition again anytime soon, but it formed this winter during 'beast fro the east^tm'. Clearly visible from road and 10 minutes approach..
The Great Corner, Llech Du. VIII 8. Classic winter feature - a fuck-off great turfy corner. Airy top pitch is tricky.
Ice One H, Crib y Ddysgyl. VIII 8. Chillingly bold 2nd pitch, very bold thrutchy squirm chimney on first pitch.
Secular State, Crib y Ddysgyl. VII 8. Brilliant splitter pumpy crack on 1st pitch. Followed by 3 pitches of VI and V on classic terrain.
Broadmoor, Clogwyn y Grochan (!). VII 8. Beast from the east turned this crag into an icy mixed playground. This was brilliant. Climbed in a raging storm. It has it all in one long pitch - rock, turf and a meaty ice pitch top; felt like patagonia 5 minutes from the car.
Back in Black, Equator Walls. VII 7. Bloody ace, narrow and thin icy corner line - one foot/axe in ice, one on rock. Repeated it myself this winter and a couple other repeats.

[Ally Smith]

You're forgetting Faust or Famine, VIII 8 in Devil's Kitchen 

[Wil]

Have your routes in the Forest of Dean been repeated Ally? They mostly sound a little dangerous for me, but it's only half an hour away now.

[Ally Smith]

Okay - suckered in...

That banned crag that begins with hunt and ends in sham:
- Rainy day buttress free, E6 6c. Wild cut loose with hands on the lip, then weird to pass the lip. No repeats.
- The Devil May Care, E8 6c. Guy Percial cleaned it and put pegs in it. Chris Savage stole the FA fro Guy. Guy removed his pegs. I repeated it without the pegs. It's about 7c/+, and although the crux is pretty safe (same move in common with RDB) you then strike out to the lip with no further gear. Bit ballsy to think I was only redpointing a similar grade on bolts at the time! No repeats - deserves one, it's super athletic and a bit bold too - a heady combination

Avon, Sea Walls:
- Train in the Distance, E7/8 6c - Pickford did it with the bolt on the low crux, and I was stupid enough to do it without.  I didn't think that bit too bold, but the top 6a/b bit is harrowing with a downwards facing blade and filed down RP2 for gear. No repeats.
- Shits and Giggles, E7 6c - great wall crimping/span to the arete. The tree runner is probably dead now? No repeats.
- Pins and Needles, E7 6b/c - runout limestone smearing, tasty. No repeats.

Burbage South Quarry:
- Shadows on the Wall, E7 6b - super arete at the back of the quarry with low runners down and left. 1 repeat (that man Mark20 again )

[petejh]

You're forgetting Faust or Famine, VIII 8 in Devil's Kitchen 

Ah yeah! That was good!! (and unrepeated). VII 7..

[mark20]

There was Parthian Shit at Wyming Brook which I think the notorious Mark20 might have done

I never actually did this - slipped off the slopey top when it was a bit warm and never went back. Maybe one day! I think Graeme Hammond has done a bit of cleaning down there so there may be enough good clean stuff to make a decent day out at some point.

Burbage South Quarry:
- Shadows on the Wall, E7 6b - super arete at the back of the quarry with low runners down and left. 1 repeat (that man Mark20 again )

Neil Furniss did it too, the day before me after I'd cleaned it! I think the stake has since been nicked so someone would have to put some work in. Apparently an old Paul Mitchell project, he was going to solo it but never did.
Funnily enough it was around the same time that we went down to the Forest of Dean but it was all condensed and I haven't been back since. I bought the book the other day so may drop you a message to get some info before I head down for a weekend over the summer 

Would obviously be great to hear of anyone do Bradwell I Scream, Worm Ouroborous, The Tormented Sole Direct, etc but I'm very much aware that most of the routes I have done are a bit obscure! But I thought My Lovely Horse in Cheedale may have seen another repeat by now (Matt Ferrier swept in for an instant second ascent)
https://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=283735

[El Mocho]

I'm gonna chuck a couple of mine into the mix. I think they are great but it could just be they are basically the last few new routes I've done so are fresher in my mind...

Das Anstandsstuck, Pembroke, just to left of Mawson mega route.

At the time this felt like the best new route I’ve done in Pembroke but that could be influenced by considerably less climbing than when I was at my most prolific down there, it would def make the top 3 though. Mega steep climbing up the inside of a huge sea cave. Abbing down it was not only pretty scary but also really hard work, amazingly pretty much every hold was a jug. Was a bit like climbing a 7b in Spain (tuffas, stalactites, knee bars…) but having to wedge in bits of metal rather than clip bolts. Speedy Pete climbed it after and German Crissy seconded it. With Summer approaching (feels like it is here already today) this will be coming into condition. Don't know how Neil missed it.

Skowl, Skye

Start up Skye wall but get too intimidated so find an easier way up. Don't know how Birkett missed it. Essentially an E3 (maybe top end) method of climbing up the middle of Skye Wall. Nice first pitch (just left of original) to a comfy belay, devious but essentially steady second pitch again with a nice ledge to finish and then the final pitch is a thrutchy crack. Perfect. If the weather on Skye is anything like down here it would be perfect at the moment, no midges yet...

I would be particularly excited if Anstandsstuck got some attention over the summer it's really good climbing and a awesome line. I lowered off from the cave (in situ sling) on Mawsons route which misses out the chossy top.

[Johnny Brown]

I don't think Scowl will need much promoting, it's a future classic guaranteed. Such vision...

I can't think of any of mine but the one new route of yours I really wish I'd seconded is Deeper Darker on Papa Stour. Unique.

[cowboyhat]

That route of yours on the diamond Ben, the beast extension thing, that is fucking mega.

I went to the diamond once and managed to do the top two thirds of the beast. The bottom was wet or, well whatever they call that.

[shark]

Das Anstandsstuck, Pembroke, just to left of Mawson mega route.

At the time this felt like the best new route I’ve done in Pembroke but that could be influenced by considerably less climbing than when I was at my most prolific down there, it would def make the top 3 though. Mega steep climbing up the inside of a huge sea cave. Abbing down it was not only pretty scary but also really hard work, amazingly pretty much every hold was a jug. Was a bit like climbing a 7b in Spain (tuffas, stalactites, knee bars…) but having to wedge in bits of metal rather than clip bolts. Speedy Pete climbed it after and German Crissy seconded it. With Summer approaching (feels like it is here already today) this will be coming into condition. Don't know how Neil missed it.


I would be particularly excited if Anstandsstuck got some attention over the summer it's really good climbing and a awesome line. I lowered off from the cave (in situ sling) on Mawsons route which misses out the chossy top.

Sounds amazing.

I’ve googled and not found anything. Can you post a description and grade.

Does it qualify as a trad climb for sport climbers?

[TobyD]

Some of the more esoteric or neglected newies I've done.

Shine On - Diamond - Ace quality endurance 8a, 30 metres with no hard moves. 2 repeats?

This sounds amazing Pete, I'd love to try that sometime! Sounds like you've done a shit load of good routes.

[TobyD]

Brew up Audrey with Ben Winston and Miles Gibson The Temple, Mount Kenya. Probably E4/5 8 pitches or so, at about 4000m. The only really significant new thing I've done. No known repeats! 

[Fiend]

Well we seem to have successfully vaulted over the "wall of modesty" 

But no-one is posting routes *I* can do (apart from Hyndsight which I can't walk to). I'm not even after essential repeats, just stuff people think I'd enjoy of theirs....