I had a few sessions on it a couple of years ago. It's a great route - short tricky bits, separated by shake-outs. The rock for the most part is good and the holds are generally positive and skin friendly for a lime route at that grade. I'd be keen to get back on it - once it's warmed up a bit - I have lots of days-off from my leave allowance to use up in May-June.
In terms of climbing, the only slightly unpleasant bit for me was at the high crux (a long RH reach for a downward pointing spike). There is a tricky clip and if I fell before making it, the rope had a bad habit of catching behind my leg. It also repeatedly happened to my partner, so not just me being a freak; a soft catch and/or a thin stretchy rope seemed to mitigate the risk.
Tactics-wise, it's best to try midweek. On weekends you can end up queuing - as almost everyone else who goes to Gordale, also wants to get on it. Plus, there's the risk of braining tourists with loose rock - there's some grottiness towards the top.
In case it helps, here is the sequence I noted down during my short campaign. It will likely make no sense, and be of little use in any event, unless you are a fellow-lank-monster:
Start
Steady to first bulge and a hands-off rest. NB remember the heel-toe and small undercut at [clip1]
At bulge, bridge high to get LH to jug above bulge, RH undercut; LF in lip of bulge, RF good scooped foothold above bulge (not the nearer ticked nubbin) and rock-over to get LH gaston on side of next bulge, RH undercut; [clip].
LH crimp cluster; step through RF, wide LF smear; RH ticked high undercut (have to get body close to rock); step through LF, RF smear, LH sidepull; step in RF to tiny spike on side of bulge; RF crimp in big chalky hold; step in LF, RF very poor smear, LH pinch-layaway; step through RF to spike, LF wide smear; RH thin undercut; bring in LF to nobble just to side of RF (tricky to see), RF stab to tiny spikey smear in groove; LH sidepull/jug - readjust LF and go-again with LH to get best part. [clip]. RH backhand big sidepull, match LH, then RH and then LH to square block. Shake out.
From block;
LH back to big sidepull; cross RH above to press the flake undercut above; LH far undercut; RH then LH to crimps; [clip] and gwt shake-out squatting in high polished bulge; RH then LH to pair of edges; RF on rubbered spike in bulge, LF just under lip of bulge; rock over on RF, RH sidepull-pinch, step through LF and wide RF smear; LH pinch-sidepull to LHS; RH to fingerjug . [clip] and shake-out - step down to low footholds and swaps hands between the fingerjug and two pinch-slots (can take as guppies and undercuts - alternate lots of positions to get a decent rest).
Crux
RH fingerjug, LF small rubbered edge, cross LH into high crimpy sidepull-undercut; RH thin undercut (part to RHS); build-up feet and get LF into fingerjug (NB make sure this is done BEFORE getting second LH sidepull); LH sidepull (furthest part of the two); step through RF to flag-smear and long RH move to spike undercut; step in LF to high brown smear, RF broken nobble, LH to sidepull in bulge; go-again LH pocket; [clip]; LF tiny spike above RF, RH crack slot, RF good foothold in crack; readjust LH in pocket; LF tiny ramp, RH poor crimp; RF tiny spike, LF slanting crimp below pocket; press out from RH and LH to slot; RH tiny spike, rockover left and LH to jugs. [clip] and rest and easier to top - use poor sidepulls to RHS and high feet (rather than more enticing positive looking holds at LHS).
