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The Swedenborg room, 8b R/X (Read 3030 times)

jwi

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The Swedenborg room, 8b R/X
April 05, 2018, 01:45:10 pm

Of marginal interest, but since people seems to go to Bohuslan for single pitch trad climbing.

Erik Grandelius has put up a new hard/scary route on the crag Haller, Det Swedenborska rummet, 8b r/x. According to Erik the climbing is thin and technical with the crux of the route a dyno 4m above marginal gear and 6m above good gear, with a soft ground fall on rope stretch if the marginal gear rips, and ground fall from any higher parts of the route.

Among the other hard routes on the crag is Doktor Snuggles, 8b/+ R, Leo Houlding's Savage horse 8a r/x (E9 6c apparently), Walk the line 8a R, Dreadline 7c+ R (E9 6c, someone hurt themselves a lot on this one), Masculine 7c r/x, and Min Arete 7c r/x

https://www.norsk-klatring.no/Impulser/Ute/Klippe/Skremmende-i-Bohus

mrjonathanr

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#1 Re: The Swedenborg room, 8b R/X
April 05, 2018, 11:47:01 pm
What’s the difference between R and x?
Thanks

guypercival

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#2 Re: The Swedenborg room, 8b R/X
April 06, 2018, 04:50:56 am
https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/106753437/distinguishing-between-protection-ratings-r-and-x

I’ve always found the sport grade with the risk rating more helpful than the E grade system in giving an idea as the measure of a route.

mrjonathanr

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#3 Re: The Swedenborg room, 8b R/X
April 06, 2018, 09:03:04 am
Thanks Guy, some interesting comments on that thread.

Quote
PROTECTION GRADINGS

The protection grades, G, PG, R and X are used to describe the quality and availability of protection for the crux of a particular pitch or climb. Many people think G is for "good" and PG means "protection good or pretty good," Not so. These terms come from the Hollywood yardsticks for describing violence or sex in a movie [...]. The system's whimsical inventor was Jim Erickson in his Colorado guide of 1980 called Rocky Heights. A protection grade has nothing to do with how difficult or strenuous it might be to place that protection; it is telling the climber about the level of security that a placement is likely to offer. When it's unusually difficult or strenuous to place protection, this guide may take note. If certain parts of a pitch are more poorly protected than others, this is usually mentioned, one example is Nurse's Aid [....]

"G" implies good protection that is closely spaced so that only short falls are likely.

"PG" implies that the protection is more widely spaced or not so good, and that moderately long falls are likely, up to 15 feet.

"R" implies that the protection is widely spaced or relatively poor in quality and that along fall (over 20 feet) is likely, with a pretty good chance of hitting a ledge or something else and getting hurt, or it could be that a short fall guarantees hitting a ledge. Also many "R" rated routes have unprotected boulder problem starts that can be made safer with a good "spot."

"X" implies that there is NO protection to keep you from being very seriously injured or killed. I am not recommending "R-X" of "X" routes.


more concisely

Quote
R means a fall (where it would be likely) will likely end your climbing day. X means a fall (where it would be likely) will likely end your climbing year or career.


I took it that
R =  run out with potentially nasty consequences
X = what they’ll put on your grave if you fall off

duncan

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#4 Re: The Swedenborg room, 8b R/X
April 06, 2018, 10:00:34 am
Embankment 3: F6a
Time for Tea: F6a R
Edge Lane: F6a R/X? (if the crux was 15' higher it might rate X)

Challenge for the team: are there any true X-rated routes in the Peak? They are mostly a bit short.   

SA Chris

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#5 Re: The Swedenborg room, 8b R/X
April 06, 2018, 10:47:33 am
MaDMAn?

Must be loads, you don't need to fall that far onto a shitty landing to die.

Fiend

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#6 Re: The Swedenborg room, 8b R/X
April 06, 2018, 12:30:43 pm
I'm interested in this news, and would like to get back to Bohuslan :) Looks really cool in the photo. I wonder what makes Haller more suitable for hard trad than most of the other crags in the area?? (apart from Svalthingy). Maybe rock formations, cleaner, sheerer?

 

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