UKBouldering.com

Seb Bouin climbs a new 9a+/b in Russan. (Read 2729 times)

jwi

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4219
  • Karma: +331/-1
    • On Steep Ground
Seb Bouin climbs a new 9a+/b in Russan.
April 04, 2018, 09:22:13 pm
https://planetgrimpe.com/2018/04/seb-bouin-enchaine-le-chilam-balam-francais-les-yeux-plus-gros-que-lantre-9a-b/

Seb Bouin has done his project in Russan “Les yeux plus gros que l’antre” (Eye's bigger then the lair/antrum). The name of the route is a play on the name for the old unclimbed project “Les yeux plus gros que le le ventre” (Eye's bigger then the stomach) which constitutes the second part of this 60m monster, otherwise known as “The french Chilam Bilam”. According to Seb the route is clearly a step up from Chilam Bilam and Pachamama. His conclusion is that the grade must be 9a+/b then.

Wood FT

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2951
  • Karma: +162/-8
Monster route.

Off topic: I really don’t get split grades, why can’t things be soft or hard for the grade? Get off the fence Seb, you’re arse is getting splinters.

TobyD

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3827
  • Karma: +88/-3
  • Job offers gratefully accepted
Russan looks amazing. I looked at going when I was on a long trip in the area, but never made it. Just one of many absolutely brilliant French sport crags (only going on pictures for Russan) that us Brits never seem to make it out to.

Ru

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1972
  • Karma: +120/-0
Russan looks amazing. I looked at going when I was on a long trip in the area, but never made it. Just one of many absolutely brilliant French sport crags (only going on pictures for Russan) that us Brits never seem to make it out to.

They all seem to face south.

gme

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1805
  • Karma: +147/-6
Russan was a popular crag in the early 90s, i went there in 91 i think. The routes are fantastic and it was reasonably popular despite the car wreaking dirt track approach and abundance of thieves to rip you off.
Its only issue is hinted at in Rus post is its in the sun all the time, its tops off in the winter type hot.
I can remember standing under the cave this route climbs wondering if anything would ever climb through it, there was a line of bolts that looked like an aid route going all the way to the top and a few draws.
Well worth a trip and most of the routes are civilised short 15-18 m type things. The wall with Pipeline on is superb.

Mark Lloyd

Offline
  • **
  • menacing presence
  • Posts: 244
  • Karma: +5/-1
I went in the 90's as well, remember that dirt track it was fine as we were in my mates car !. The thing I remember best was when a friend freaked out as a snake crawled out from under the rock he was sitting on and some frenchie commented 'its ok its not a cobra'. whilst pissing himself

jwi

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4219
  • Karma: +331/-1
    • On Steep Ground

I can remember standing under the cave this route climbs wondering if anything would ever climb through it, there was a line of bolts that looked like an aid route going all the way to the top and a few draws.

From the description in the article it sounds like what you saw is now the second part of the new route.

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal