UKBouldering.com

Supercool, Gordale (Read 3594 times)

spidermonkey09

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2766
  • Karma: +157/-4
Supercool, Gordale
March 22, 2018, 04:35:00 pm
Couldn't see an existing thread for this but correct me if I'm wrong.

Keen to put some serious time into this over the summer; I'm prepared for a long, lonely and cold siege. But the comments I've read make it seem like its worth it. However, theres little to be found in terms of beta and advice as far as I can see.

Anything anyone wishes they'd known before they 'got involved' with it? I'm basically frothing to get on with it but got a Font trip over Easter first!


Will Hunt

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Superworm is super-long
  • Posts: 7959
  • Karma: +629/-114
    • Unknown Stones
#1 Re: Supercool, Gordale
March 22, 2018, 05:18:33 pm
I'll give you a catch on it if, in return, you drag me up Face Route.

spidermonkey09

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2766
  • Karma: +157/-4
#2 Re: Supercool, Gordale
March 22, 2018, 06:31:09 pm
I'll give you a catch on it if, in return, you drag me up Face Route.

Done. You should get on the sharp end though Will!

moose

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Lankenstein's Monster
  • Posts: 2927
  • Karma: +228/-1
  • el flaco lento
#3 Re: Supercool, Gordale
March 22, 2018, 06:45:29 pm
I had a few sessions on it a couple of years ago.  It's a great route - short tricky bits, separated by shake-outs.  The rock for the most part is good and the holds are generally positive and  skin friendly for a lime route at that grade.  I'd be keen to get back on it - once it's warmed up a bit - I have lots of days-off from my leave allowance to use up in May-June. 

In terms of climbing, the only slightly unpleasant bit for me was at the high crux (a long RH reach for a downward pointing spike).  There is a tricky clip and if I fell before making it, the rope had a bad habit of catching behind my leg.  It also repeatedly happened to my partner, so not just me being a freak; a soft catch and/or a thin stretchy rope seemed to mitigate the risk. 

Tactics-wise, it's best to try midweek.  On weekends you can end up queuing - as almost everyone else who goes to Gordale, also wants to get on it.  Plus, there's the risk of braining tourists with loose rock - there's some grottiness towards the top.

In case it helps, here is the sequence I noted down during my short campaign.  It will likely make no sense, and be of little use in any event, unless you are a fellow-lank-monster:

Start

Steady to first bulge and a hands-off rest.  NB remember the heel-toe and small undercut at [clip1]

At bulge, bridge high to get LH to jug above bulge, RH undercut; LF in lip of bulge, RF good scooped foothold above bulge (not the nearer ticked nubbin) and rock-over to get LH gaston on side of next bulge, RH undercut; [clip]. 

LH crimp cluster; step through RF, wide LF smear; RH ticked high undercut (have to get body close to rock); step through LF, RF smear, LH sidepull; step in RF to tiny spike on side of bulge; RF crimp in big chalky hold; step in LF, RF very poor smear, LH pinch-layaway; step through RF to spike, LF wide smear; RH thin undercut; bring in LF to nobble just to side of RF (tricky to see), RF stab to tiny spikey smear in groove; LH sidepull/jug - readjust LF and go-again with LH to get best part. [clip].  RH backhand big sidepull, match LH, then RH and then LH to square block. Shake out.

From block;
LH back to big sidepull; cross RH above to press the flake undercut above; LH far undercut; RH then LH to crimps; [clip] and gwt shake-out squatting in high polished bulge; RH then LH to pair of edges; RF on rubbered spike in bulge, LF just under lip of bulge; rock over on RF, RH sidepull-pinch, step through LF and wide RF smear; LH pinch-sidepull to LHS; RH to fingerjug .  [clip] and shake-out - step down to low footholds and swaps hands between the fingerjug and two pinch-slots (can take as guppies and undercuts - alternate lots of positions to get a decent rest).

Crux
RH fingerjug, LF small rubbered edge, cross LH into high crimpy sidepull-undercut; RH thin undercut (part to RHS); build-up feet and get LF into fingerjug (NB make sure this is done BEFORE getting second LH sidepull); LH sidepull (furthest part of the two); step through RF to flag-smear and long RH move to spike undercut; step in LF to high brown smear, RF broken nobble, LH to sidepull in bulge; go-again LH pocket; [clip]; LF tiny spike above RF, RH crack slot, RF good foothold in crack; readjust LH in pocket; LF tiny ramp, RH poor crimp; RF tiny spike, LF slanting crimp below pocket; press out from RH and LH to slot; RH tiny spike, rockover left and LH to jugs.  [clip] and rest and easier to top - use poor sidepulls to RHS and high feet (rather than more enticing positive looking holds at LHS).


nai

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4005
  • Karma: +206/-1
  • In my dreams
#4 Re: Supercool, Gordale
March 22, 2018, 07:41:28 pm
Decent video of it:


jamesturnbull97

Offline
  • **
  • addict
  • Posts: 119
  • Karma: +8/-0
#5 Re: Supercool, Gordale
March 22, 2018, 10:31:50 pm
I had a single session on it last session managing to fall off the end of the top crux and taking the ride down to the 3rd bolt having skipped the clip. I remember getting a good sequence together for it although I can't reel it off here like moose but I'm sure I'll remember it once on route. In short give us a shout when your keen I'm well keen to finish it off.

spidermonkey09

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2766
  • Karma: +157/-4
#6 Re: Supercool, Gordale
March 22, 2018, 10:42:22 pm
Cheers all, that's very psyche inducing! It'll have to be weekends/ rushed weekday evenings after work from ilkley but I'm sure it'll be fine. I'm the complete opposite to moose in terms of build but will be interesting to compare how different the sequences are! Will give you both a shout, especially once I get into it and can justify a few hours after work.

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal