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New Sheigra Bouldering Guide (Read 4679 times)

sherlock

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#25 Re: New Sheigra Bouldering Guide
November 09, 2022, 12:40:35 pm
Perhaps The Promentary?
Blocks face all directions for available sun this time of year.
Quick drying mainly, clean non scrittly.
Easy navigation between problems
Rock platform landings, occasional rock pools but I suspect you'll be used to those.
If it's windy take a rope for the descent.
And a couple of medium wires, big slings for an anchor. A handline is useful in winds, the descent slab catches wind and carrying a couple of pads can be a bit hairy.
The platform might get splashy in a really big sea but only seen that a couple of times in winter.
Close to the parking.
Or maybe the Stone Shelves. A bit further away, landings varied, not as quick to orientate yourself.
I wouldn't go to Land of the Giants on my own. A long steep crawl if you turn an ankle.....

Edit: Andy beat me to it!

SA Chris

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#26 Re: New Sheigra Bouldering Guide
November 09, 2022, 01:07:16 pm
8ft swell forecast! Might have a look around, no sweat taking an old static rope and some bits for the descent.

sherlock

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#27 Re: New Sheigra Bouldering Guide
November 09, 2022, 01:50:18 pm
It'll be easy to assess the state of the platform and the swell from the top
I'd come out for the day but got commitments this w/e.

SA Chris

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#28 Re: New Sheigra Bouldering Guide
November 09, 2022, 02:16:50 pm
Yeah, figured as much. It's not cast in stone yet, missus is hobbling with sore foot from too much running. If it doesn't get better I am at home helping with child wrangling.

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#29 Re: New Sheigra Bouldering Guide
November 13, 2022, 04:05:42 pm
Did you get out Chris? Didn't notice your question until now. If you want to know what the descent to the Promontory is like, at the very end of the this video there is footage of me climbing out with the dog: https://vimeo.com/manage/videos/232680933 (c. 19min)
I've never used a rope - mostly because my rope skills are so poor, it would certainly be more dangerous!I think the Promontory only gets splashy on seaward side of the most seaward blocks so there is plenty to get on.

I also think the Land of Giants is fine by yourself if you just climb carefully and pick sensible problems. It's actually the steep descent that is probably the thing to be most cautious of (esp if it has been wet). The updated guide suggests keeping right which is a little further but probably more secure.

The safest and easiest place to climb up there is actually Droman Pier (can find details and topos on UKC), but it is tidal.

sherlock

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#30 Re: New Sheigra Bouldering Guide
November 13, 2022, 04:42:09 pm
https://vimeo.com/manage/videos/232680933 (c. 19min)
I've never used a rope - mostly because my rope skills are so poor, it would certainly be more dangerous!I think the Promontory only gets splashy on seaward side of the most seaward blocks so there is plenty to get on.

I also think the Land of Giants is fine by yourself if you just climb carefully and pick sensible problems. It's actually the steep descent that is probably the thing to be most cautious of (esp if it has been wet). The updated guide suggests keeping right which is a little further but probably more secure.

The safest and easiest place to climb up there is actually Droman Pier (can find details and topos on UKC), but it is tidal.
[/quote]

Been blown over on that slab a couple of times, though I note that you are close in to the corner, we've always gone straight down the slab . Suspect you're right though!
And yeah, I sort of meant the descent to LoG was a little spooky in poor conditions. Still wouldn't fancy it on my own, the imagination runs wild down there  :lol:
Edit: And I can't figure out why the quote function on UKB is so erratic on my  phone.

SA Chris

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#31 Re: New Sheigra Bouldering Guide
November 14, 2022, 08:25:08 am
Never happened in the end life got in the way (she's still hobbling, might be stress fracture from too much running), but good knowledge, will keep an eye on forecast and try get back, been too long.

 

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