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Dave Mac's Big Day Out (Read 11984 times)

petejh

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#25 Re: Dave Mac's Big Day Out
March 29, 2018, 10:59:00 am
I'd have thought you could put the 3 rock disciplines close together in terms of how acheivable they are, if they're routes you've practised before and you're redpointing.. Although the sport 8a is perhaps the most 'achievable' for most people?
Depending on prior winter climbing experience the grade VIII is either: relative to the 3 rock genres physically easy; relative to the 3 rock genres physically nails; or impossible.
No amount of rock climbing, beyond what you'll learn getting competent at E3/4 i.e. being comfortable with exposure, steepish ground, run-outs and finding tricky gear etc., will prepare you for the uniqueness of British trad mixed climbing.

The munros.. anyone can get hill fit if they're keen can't they.  :P

Thinking of if in Wales:
8A any number from the Cave
8a - any number of routes on LPT
E8 - Rare Lichen? (run-out 7c)
VIII - Travesty (easy for the grade)
8 x 1000m peaks
« Last Edit: March 29, 2018, 11:05:49 am by petejh »

Ally Smith

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#26 Re: Dave Mac's Big Day Out
March 29, 2018, 11:09:04 am
Looks like a good ticklist - how about Une Jeune Fille... at Nesscliffe - you'd tick E8 and 8a at the same time then!?!

Thinking of if in Wales:
8A any number from the Cave
8a - any number of routes on LPT
E8 - Rare Lichen? (run-out 7c)
VIII - Travesty (easy for the grade)
8 x 1000m peaks

SA Chris

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#27 Re: Dave Mac's Big Day Out
March 29, 2018, 11:29:54 am
Conditions wise is it less likely in Wales though due to less altitude difference? If VIII in the mountains is in, surely something like Rare Lichen will at least be very cold and wet.

Doylo

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#28 Re: Dave Mac's Big Day Out
March 29, 2018, 11:46:42 am
And LPT is grim in winter .

SA Chris

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#29 Re: Dave Mac's Big Day Out
March 29, 2018, 11:55:08 am
Glen Nevis isn't exactly a tropical nirvana.

duncan

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#30 Re: Dave Mac's Big Day Out
March 29, 2018, 11:55:46 am
Conditions wise is it less likely in Wales though due to less altitude difference? If VIII in the mountains is in, surely something like Rare Lichen will at least be very cold and wet.

If the mountain crags are in condition for an VIII, the E8 will probably need to be at Gogarth or the Llyn (shudder). 

Teaboy

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#31 Re: Dave Mac's Big Day Out
March 29, 2018, 01:29:59 pm

E8 - Rare Lichen? (run-out 7c)


Are you saying one of the most sought after E9s in the country is actually more amiable than some of the E8s? Do we need some sort of wooden spoon emoticon for this or is that generally accepted now?

Doylo

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#32 Re: Dave Mac's Big Day Out
March 29, 2018, 02:12:35 pm
And LPT is grim in winter .

You’d be better off doing Simon Says on Upper that time of year. More sheltered and bigger holds.

Ally Smith

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#33 Re: Dave Mac's Big Day Out
March 29, 2018, 02:15:40 pm

E8 - Rare Lichen? (run-out 7c)


Are you saying one of the most sought after E9s in the country is actually more amiable than some of the E8s? Do we need some sort of wooden spoon emoticon for this or is that generally accepted now?

Caveat - I've not lead it...

Rare Lichen is more like a Malham 7b+; certainly easier than Obsession.

The gear really isn't that bad - a young whipper-snapper fell off the upper crux and was fine - caff had sage words of advise for said youngster in an entertaining blog post.

There's a good RP/IMP3 below the crux, along with a scattering of other gear that aren't great, but nor are they so bad you wouldn't bother placing it - note that you need to file the RP3 down a bit to fit perfectly (or have fallen on it a few times so it's a bit smaller than normal...)

My logic was this: screamer/revolver on the RP3, skinny 8mm ropes to reduce the impact force on everything. End result;  likelihood of death if you fell off, <10%? IMHO not E9 in a million years

Further caveats - being lanky was useful on the upper crux, but made the lower (E7 6b?) section slightly more sketchy as my bum stuck out a mile - this bit scared me more than the upper arete

Doylo

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#34 Re: Dave Mac's Big Day Out
March 29, 2018, 02:40:59 pm

E8 - Rare Lichen? (run-out 7c)


Are you saying one of the most sought after E9s in the country is actually more amiable than some of the E8s? Do we need some sort of wooden spoon emoticon for this or is that generally accepted now?

Caveat - I've not lead it...

Rare Lichen is more like a Malham 7b+; certainly easier than Obsession.

The gear really isn't that bad - a young whipper-snapper fell off the upper crux and was fine - caff had sage words of advise for said youngster in an entertaining blog post.

There's a good RP/IMP3 below the crux, along with a scattering of other gear that aren't great, but nor are they so bad you wouldn't bother placing it - note that you need to file the RP3 down a bit to fit perfectly (or have fallen on it a few times so it's a bit smaller than normal...)

My logic was this: screamer/revolver on the RP3, skinny 8mm ropes to reduce the impact force on everything. End result;  likelihood of death if you fell off, <10%? IMHO not E9 in a million years

Further caveats - being lanky was useful on the upper crux, but made the lower (E7 6b?) section slightly more sketchy as my bum stuck out a mile - this bit scared me more than the upper arete

Never E9 then. Which was fairly obvious anyway. Leo gave it E8 originally.

Doylo

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#35 Re: Dave Mac's Big Day Out
June 08, 2018, 08:50:41 pm

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#36 Re: Dave Mac's Big Day Out
June 26, 2018, 12:14:38 pm
Nice film, captures the challenge and environment well, I like Dave's appreciation of the sunset on the go. Although it still has to feature some bloody pipe music somewhere!


 

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