Will increasing my aerobic capacity increase the number of attempts per day? Or is this just related to trying really hard and the route being close to my endurance limit and should I try prioritising one of the other components?
That said, it's quite clear what you have to work to improve recovery, no? I find it unlikely that it can be explained by anything else than bad stamina, in the broad sense. You are likely to have low mitochondria count, low capillarity, underdeveloped lactate shuttle, underdeveloped size in the type I muscle cells, and possibly a badly functioning potassium-sodium pump. This can be improved by doing a fuck-ton of moves per session over time. Cf. spanish stamina training.
Aerobic ability is unfortunately quite easy to detrain. I've read some quite shocking case-studies on rowers. This seems to be the case for many climbers as well. Even extremely good onsight climbers can loose quite a lot over 2-3 months of bouldering.But, on the other hand, aerobic ability can increase quite rapidly when it is underdeveloped. For technical reasons that has to do with gene-expressions it seems good to have many bouts of training lasting at least 15 min without stopping (except to run between problems if doing a circuit). If you're doing block periodisation, 3 weeks x 4-5 session/week will make a big difference, unless you are Patxi U. For undulating periodisation 2-3 session p week concurrent with other training, I'd expect good results in 5-6 weeks. So yeah, for a short-time increase in the level I'd expect to see effect on myself already after 2-3 sessions of cruising on jugs. Maybe even after one single mega session. If you're doing laps on 7b (with short rests? less than a minute or so? in which case your onsight level on euro limestone is around 7b+/c?) that should at least not decrease your session stamina.(The most qualified climbing coach I know (with several athletes that've reached WC finals, have onsighted and redpointed at world class levels) makes all of his athletes (including people only bouldering) do at least 4 weeks of high volume training a year.) For practical reasons I cannot do block-periodisation right now.
I guess the solution would be to actually do some proper training aerobic but I enjoy woodie climbing too much!
So last year when I was nt injured and the route was dry i was trying to red point a route a Kilnsey. Easy start to no hands rest, then around 25-30 hand moves to the top.
An hour a week is all it takes, possibly even less, you can't climb on the woodie every day after all, can be done as an active recovery day or just after a wall session (although that possibly has an affect on any strength gains). Worth the minor hassle I reckon, if I do it I feel solid straight away when I first get out in Spring, otherwise it's a nervy jittery start that wastes several sessions.
If you're fit then you're fit.
nb: getting this many decent redpoints in also means sticking with a route, even if one of your attempts is shit and you feel knackered. I see a lot of people give up after the 2nd or 3rd go because it didn't go well. I've lost count of the number of times I've had a shit 2nd or 3rd go, and then smashed a route in on the 4th or 5th try.
...and then smashed a route in on the 4th or 5th try.
I've lost count of the number of times I've had a shit 2nd or 3rd go, and then smashed a route in on the 4th or 5th try.
If you don't have a powernap hanging off a kneebar en-route it ain't happening
Quote from: SA Chris on March 22, 2018, 01:54:49 pmIf you don't have a powernap hanging off a kneebar off-route it ain't happeningFixed
If you don't have a powernap hanging off a kneebar off-route it ain't happening
If you don't have a powernap between attempts it ain't happening
How pumped should I feel at the end of session?
This AeroCap stuff is all nonsense right?If your problem is getting pumped then climbing around for 25mins not getting pumped is not going to change that (not very quickly anyway). Are lattice to blame for this? Are climbers having entire session that are supposedly getting them fitter in which they are never getting pumped?
Will - 4x4s - I'd aim to be doing 4 sets of 4 routes and failing on the last route of the 3rd and 4th set. Pumped as possible is what i'd aim for.
I kinda like this little rant. AeroCap is getting an awful lot of attention. However, I get the impression that those being trained by lattice and those who have looked into it are still going and getting pumped into oblivion during certain phases of their training, but now that's not all they're doing. Quote from: highrepute on March 29, 2018, 01:54:01 pmWill - 4x4s - I'd aim to be doing 4 sets of 4 routes and failing on the last route of the 3rd and 4th set. Pumped as possible is what i'd aim for.Where did this general obsession with 4x4s on routes for very pumpy enduro training come from? Unless your wall is <10 m tall then surely this is far too many metres, and therefore much lower intensity, than required for your goal routes? To expand your running analogy, I'd suggest this fits very comfortably into the 'wasted miles' category. Also limiting your training reps/sets multiples of 4, which are just plucked out of thin air, means you lose a variable with which you can adjust your training.
In response to all the ranters:Where did you get the idea that aero cap training means not getting pumped? I think you mean ARC, which is bollocks. Aerocap training is just endurance training and involves sessions like:1) Long durations on the wall at mild pump throughout2) Long (~30-60 move) intervals with short rests, at the end of which pump levels should be high, but not terminal.I don't think there's any sound evidence for which kind of approach is better, so take your pick, mix and match or use yourself as a guinea pig
One question raised above is whether this sort of training is effective for British limestone. The Barrows Manifesto explains why it should be applicable (ability to shake out and recover at a rest. Ability to metabolise large quantities of lactic etc). Do you put store in this, Stu (notwithstanding your desire to take the piss out of barrows at every opportunity).
Quote from: Smith42 on March 29, 2018, 12:13:21 pmHow pumped should I feel at the end of session? Borrows once told me - Very tired and very bored.
I wouldn’t credit Barrows with anything.
use yourself as a guinea pig
Depends how long the route is and how high you get.