[Ged]

Last summer everyone seemed to be talking about an e5 called arretica, that I'd never heard of and is apparently brilliant. With Pembroke season fast approaching, what are your mega routes that most people haven't heard of?  To get started:

Hannah (e5), near no mans zawn. Well protected and quite tough. No fixed gear.

In the heat of the night (e5/6), mowing word. Huge pitch with a bit of everything. No fixed gear. Take slings.

Deutchsland nicht uber alles (e5), stennis ford. Cool line out into the middle of the wall.

[csl]

Resurrecting this old thread as I'm off to Pembroke next week and have been flicking through the guides.

I spent a fair amount of time at Pembroke a decade ago and have done a lot of the classic E1-4 routes (although I have plenty left to do, and certainly would be happy to repeat many of them).

Deutchsland nicht uber alles (e5), stennis ford. Cool line out into the middle of the wall.

I've seconded this, it was indeed brilliant.

Anyone else have any routes you think are great which are a little less popular than the classics?

[Duncan campbell]

Olive Branch - E4 - Mowing Word East Face - Pat Littlejohn (say no more) route, only gets two stars but I thought it was ace easily as good as tangerine dream or any other classic E4s.

Arretica - E5 - stack rocks area? Incredible line up an arete. Don’t remember it being desperate but was on the blunt end.

Sieg Heil - E5 - Cauldron. Really good.

Vladimir on the Rocks - E4 - leap. Thought this was good - slab a bit bold then steeper but we’ll protected.

I’m sure there is so much more than I’ve forgotten about but hope that keeps you busy

[shark]

Jawohl Mein Führer E5 at the Cauldron I thought at the time (1989) was at least as good as it’s popular neighbour Sieg Heil but it’s only had one tick apart from mine on the UKC logbooks.

[ali k]

it’s only had one tick apart from mine on the UKC logbooks.

That’s mine.

Comment reads “After Mike snapped the peg, thread and popped a wire and ended up in the sea, so was a bit spooked setting off. Amazing route worthy of more repeats.”

[remus]

Ed Morris' logbook is good for a browse for this sort of thing, he's got good taste. Beware he's a bit of a weapon.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/showlog.php?id=79368

[Jerry Morefat]

Ed Morris' logbook is good for a browse for this sort of thing, he's got good taste. Beware he's a bit of a weapon.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/showlog.php?id=79368

Yeh, that's a good one. The Pembroke 3* e1-e5 ticklist is also a good place to look https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/ticklists/pemroke_3_star_routes_e1-e5-3524 . I've been climbing in Pembroke for over 20 years and now only live 2 hours away but reckon that ticklist will keep me busy for the rest of my days!

[Bonjoy]

I'm surprised you haven't mentioned I'm Spartacus Simon. https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/skrinkle_haven-806/im_spartacus-40029
Only took 20 years to get a repeat, going by logs on UKC! Still not extended to the top (which as the repeater comments could up it to 3 stars). Bet it's a lot more chill these days with kneepads.

[shark]

I’m too modest  As are you (having got the second ascent)

I ruled out going to the top as I thought the large fin/block you would have to layback up was insecure on a grand scale.

[spidermonkey09]

I’m too modest  As are you (having got the second ascent)

I ruled out going to the top as I thought the large fin/block you would have to layback up was insecure on a grand scale.

As is the lower off spike according to ukc; whats the lesser of two evils?!

[duncan]

Choosing three star E5s is too easy! I’ve focused on E1-E4 and not included anything with three stars.

Wavelength E3 (Bosherston). Excellent route that feels quite remote even though it's 10 minutes from the car park. The chimney/slot can be a bit damp.
https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/bosherston_head-432/wavelength-170267

The Whaler E3 (Stackpole). I had an epic on it but don’t let that put you off, with any of the current guides it’s clear where to go and the climbing is out there.
https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/stackpole_head-791/the_whaler-162576

Stackpole Cracks E1 (Stackpole). 27 recorded ascents since 1972. People have no taste! Definitive two star E1. Very tidal.
https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/stackpole_head-791/stackpole_cracks-45209

As it’s September you should just go to Stackpole anyway.


Reach for the Sky E3 (Trevellan). Not that reachy but good technical climbing.
https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/trevallen_cliff-710/reach_for_the_sky-24901

Run Wild E1 (Buckspool Down). 3D roof followed by techy slab. Quite bold if you go straight up the middle of the slab.
https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/buckspool_down-219/run_wild-45884

Photocall E2 (St Govan’s). Can anything at St. Govan’s be off piste? Well this has had less than 50 recorded ascents so relatively obscure. I didn't think E3 as some comments suggest, the top crack is a bit awkward but only HVS.

No Man’s Land E4 (St Govan’s). As above. Like two V2/3s at your favourite indoor wall, soft for E4.
https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/st_govans_head-7/no_mans_land-24799

The Gong E1. (Madman’s Point.) Not that off-piste as it has a couple of photos in the select which have just nudged into the 3 figures of recorded ascents. Good steep fun on huge holds. The Madhatter’s Tea Party, similar grade, looks good too but without the musical possibilities. There is a direct second pitch in the supplement that could be used for either.
https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/elegug_stacks_bay-23717/the_gong-270772

Wet Thread E3. (Raming Hole). Littlejohn, steep, burly, a bit loose, very good.
https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/raming_hole_area-794/wet_threat-45204

Dragon Slayer E1 (Gun Cliff). Qualified recommendation. I backed off this as it was wet and I was trying to follow the description rather than the photo in the guide. I can usually climb E1s at Pembroke in the wet, the only comments suggest E2 rather than E1. Looks great as far as i got. 
https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/gun_cliff-793/dragon_slayer-137408

Maninwhite E2 (Mowingword). Great rock, fun moves, soft for the grade! Climb it with the evening sun on it ideally.
https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/mowing_word-792/maninwhite-355925

Olive Branch E4 (Mowingword) looks great as Duncan says and my leader dispatched it smoothly enough for me to leave it for a flash go sometime soon hopefully.

The starred routes on the Mowingword hidden wall (E1-E4) are all good.

[shark]

I’m too modest  As are you (having got the second ascent)

I ruled out going to the top as I thought the large fin/block you would have to layback up was insecure on a grand scale.

As is the lower off spike according to ukc; whats the lesser of two evils?!

IIRC I lowered off on one rope with the other rope (still through gear) being taken in for back up.

[Potash]

Alien World at Mother Careys probably fits the bill as being an excellent lesser known Pembroke classic.

It's certainly less frequently climbed.

It's certainly outrageously steep.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/mother_careys_kitchen-801/alien_world-340578

[Dinodinosaur2]

Amazon - E3, Lydstep point. I did this this year on recommendation from a friend, another pat littlejohn masterpiece.