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IFSC 2018 (Read 20175 times)

gollum

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#150 Re: IFSC 2018
September 14, 2018, 09:48:01 am
Looks like the bouldering is on at 6 this eve and tomorrow

r-man

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#151 Re: IFSC 2018
September 14, 2018, 02:43:41 pm
Will be live on BBC red button apparently.

https://www.bbc.co.uk/sport/amp/45439557

GraemeA

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#152 Re: IFSC 2018
September 15, 2018, 02:22:40 pm
Nathan is in the final  ;D

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#153 Re: IFSC 2018
September 15, 2018, 06:57:06 pm
Can anyone explain how the combined finals works? Is it just a product of the results from the individual disciplines that have already been? Or do they have to do one of each of the individual disciplines on the finals day?

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#154 Re: IFSC 2018
September 15, 2018, 07:43:40 pm
They will do all three disciplines in the finals. The women's final will be 10:00 am GMT and the men's 1:30 pm GMT.

On a related note: men's bouldering final was fantastic.

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#155 Re: IFSC 2018
September 15, 2018, 08:31:03 pm
Awesome menís boulder final, great problems, brilliant camera work.

Danny

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#156 Re: IFSC 2018
September 15, 2018, 09:17:37 pm
Very good. Though the quintuple catch parkour type stuff does annoy me a touch. Not so much the men's first one, but the women's was painful to watch for 20 minutes. Also in the women's semis, and generally, they need to sort out the advertising dabs, FFS.

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#157 Re: IFSC 2018
September 16, 2018, 07:03:02 am
 Really enjoyed the men's comp. Semi probably a bit too easy but made it pretty tense waiting too see whether Phillips made it in to the top six. Great achievement, when was the last time a British man got in to a world cup or champs final? Don't think i can remember it happening often.

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#158 Re: IFSC 2018
September 16, 2018, 08:38:44 am
Really enjoyed the men's comp. Semi probably a bit too easy but made it pretty tense waiting too see whether Phillips made it in to the top six. Great achievement, when was the last time a British man got in to a world cup or champs final? Don't think i can remember it happening often.

Three times British Bouldering Champion Andy Earl won the fourth round of the IFSC Bouldering World Cup at La Reunion in 2007...  http://www.climbonline.co.uk/andy_earl.htm

GraemeA

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#159 Re: IFSC 2018
September 16, 2018, 03:27:38 pm
Really enjoyed the men's comp. Semi probably a bit too easy but made it pretty tense waiting too see whether Phillips made it in to the top six. Great achievement, when was the last time a British man got in to a world cup or champs final? Don't think i can remember it happening often.

World Cup - Tyler last year in Meiringen.
World Champs - Dave Barrans in China 2009

GraemeA

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#160 Re: IFSC 2018
September 16, 2018, 04:27:20 pm
Sorry, Ty was in the Meiringen final in 2016 not last year.

teestub

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#161 Re: IFSC 2018
September 16, 2018, 09:10:18 pm
The combined looks brutal, takes the day fitness requirements to another level!

jwi

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#162 Re: IFSC 2018
September 16, 2018, 10:06:58 pm
Very good entertainment that combined final. What a mensch Jacob is!

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#163 Re: IFSC 2018
September 16, 2018, 10:21:22 pm
Very good entertainment that combined final. What a mensch Jacob is!

Hell yeah, and Ondra, especially in the route.

It seems that the format is going to add more luck/chance into the results due to the way the speed is set up in heats.

Danny

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#164 Re: IFSC 2018
September 16, 2018, 11:13:43 pm
Speed not such a spanner in the works as I imagined it would be. Over quickly, and essentially a consequential warm-up for the bouldering and lead, which work well back-to-back.

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#165 Re: IFSC 2018
September 17, 2018, 07:28:44 am
Haven't watched the men's yet but quite enjoyed the women's combined. Not sure why they couldn't just use the ranks for the individual events though? Will they have to do all three events on the same day in the olympics?

I found the speed element a bit bollocks, what with the false starts. Not really sure why it has to be head to head rather than timing between leaving the pad and hitting the top. That way you would have a more accurate measure of climbing performance rather than timing the start perfectly. Maybe its just an attempt to add some entertainment in to an astonishingly boring event.

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#166 Re: IFSC 2018
September 17, 2018, 08:21:10 am
The speed climbing was a better spectacle than I thought it would be (watched the womenís speed only). The head to head and simultaneous start means you can see where one person overtakes the other etc (fast starts and clawing people back). Knockout format means an underdog can progress through.. and for me there was far more jeopardy- in other words there was lots of opportunity to screw up (miss a smear - misplace a foot) which meant several of the top people didnít make it through.

From the climber in me point of view itís daft and not that interesting (is parkour boulder problems either??) but as a channel hopping punter it was decent.

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#167 Re: IFSC 2018
September 17, 2018, 09:12:54 am
Speed not such a spanner in the works as I imagined it would be. Over quickly, and essentially a consequential warm-up for the bouldering and lead, which work well back-to-back.

On the contrary, a shit speed result is basically going to take you out of contention in the full scale comp with 20 climbers.

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#168 Re: IFSC 2018
September 17, 2018, 09:31:20 am
From the climber in me point of view itís daft and not that interesting (is parkour boulder problems either??)

Agreed. They need to get the false start rule sorted out, but other than that it's not greatly sillier than sideways multiple dynos.

jwi

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#169 Re: IFSC 2018
September 17, 2018, 09:32:20 am
Competitor A: 20th in speed, 1st in lead, 2nd in bouldering: 20*1*2 = 40
Competitor B: 5th in speed, 2nd in lead, 4th in bouldering: 5*2*4 = 40.

For a low geometric mean it suffices to win something.

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#170 Re: IFSC 2018
September 17, 2018, 11:07:52 am
Well, and coming very near to first in the other discipline too!

GraemeA

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#171 Re: IFSC 2018
September 17, 2018, 01:24:55 pm
Haven't watched the men's yet but quite enjoyed the women's combined. Not sure why they couldn't just use the ranks for the individual events though? Will they have to do all three events on the same day in the olympics?

I found the speed element a bit bollocks, what with the false starts. Not really sure why it has to be head to head rather than timing between leaving the pad and hitting the top. That way you would have a more accurate measure of climbing performance rather than timing the start perfectly. Maybe its just an attempt to add some entertainment in to an astonishingly boring event.

What you saw yesterday was a Combined Final, that is why you only saw head to head. In a full Combined comp you get 20 athletes racing the clock  during Qualification, rather than each other, just like in a normal Speed WC.

Tomoa and Miho really blew it with the false starts, they are the fastest by a good 0.5-0.75 seconds so they really did not need to risk a FS.

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#172 Re: IFSC 2018
September 17, 2018, 01:54:27 pm

What you saw yesterday was a Combined Final, that is why you only saw head to head. In a full Combined comp you get 20 athletes racing the clock  during Qualification, rather than each other, just like in a normal Speed WC.


How are the initial 20 selected Graeme? It would seem that there won't actually be any "speed" climbers getting through to the Olympics (if the selection process at Innsbruck is any indication)?

Despite there being a speed element, I really enjoyed the combined competition. Looked pretty brutal on the competitors though.

GraemeA

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#173 Re: IFSC 2018
September 17, 2018, 02:12:22 pm
How are the initial 20 selected Graeme? It would seem that there won't actually be any "speed" climbers getting through to the Olympics (if the selection process at Innsbruck is any indication)?

Top 7 from the (Full) Combined Worlds 2019 in Tokyo - it was going to be Top 6 which makes more sense but someone (either IOC or IFSC Plenary Assembly) decided they didn't want the Overall World Cup winner from 2019 which had previously been factored into the equation.

Then there is the Olympic Qualifying event near Toulouse in November 2019, 6 more get selected from this - this event is for those ranked 8-27 in the Overall Ranking from Tokyo.

Then there are the 5 Continental Champions which take place after the OQ event and before the end of April 2020. The ECH will be in Moscow in April 2020.

Then there is a guaranteed spot for a Japanese although everyone expects at least one Japanese to qualify by other means.

Then there is a wild card to be decided by the IOC.


Despite there being a speed element, I really enjoyed the combined competition. Looked pretty brutal on the competitors though.

In 2020 the men's and women's finals will be on different days so the rest periods will be longer.


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#174 Re: IFSC 2018
September 17, 2018, 02:53:56 pm
Cheers Graeme. Nice and simple then......

In 2020 the men's and women's finals will be on different days so the rest periods will be longer.

I guess it won't be on the back of the rest of the world championships either which will help.