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IFSC 2018 (Read 17841 times)

webbo

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#100 Re: IFSC 2018
July 05, 2018, 09:09:41 pm
When I read the words “Fanny swinging”. I was hopeful this post was going somewhere else.

jwi

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#101 Re: IFSC 2018
July 08, 2018, 09:35:55 am
Really good comp in Villars on short fierce routes offering good splits, and for once I was home on a Saturday. It's so much nicer to follow sport live...

No big surprises: Romain Desgranges is still the fittest man alive and everybody else should be ashamed of themselves, Jacob Schubert is still the best climber on the circuit, and baring an injury Janja Garnbret will win every lead comp this year.

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#102 Re: IFSC 2018
July 08, 2018, 11:06:33 am
Yup it was cool. The VOD has some stuttering on the women's which was annoying as it was such a good fight at the top.

Some great camera angles of the tricky bits on this, and neat routes.

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#104 Re: IFSC 2018
July 12, 2018, 07:10:42 pm
Pity but a wise decision. Well done for all she did until now.

Duma

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#105 Re: IFSC 2018
July 14, 2018, 08:25:54 am
Will Bosi getting 5th in lead (and breaking the British speed record) in Chamonix must be worth a mention?  :2thumbsup: :strongbench:

He did promote that horrific BMW thing though...  :no:

jwi

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#106 Re: IFSC 2018
July 14, 2018, 02:35:48 pm
Again, very good semis and finals. The routes where maybe a touch too long/easy as almost everyone stayed on the wall close to 6 min.

To me, it looked like Jessica Pilz won the women's because she was fitter than Janja Garnbret; strange as that sounds. She climbed amazingly well and it was touching to see how much the win ment to her.

The men's final was amazing. Alex Megos did a mistake low down by campusing a long move from a pocket to a sloper which probably cost him too much, making it impossible to top out. I couldn't tell if Jacob Schubert made any particular errors, it didn't look like it to me. As with the women's final it just look the winner, Stefano Ghisolfi, was a tiny bit fitter than the rest that day.

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#107 Re: IFSC 2018
July 15, 2018, 02:20:28 pm
Amazing result from Bosi!!

Finals were good, but I didn't find the routes quite as interesting as the semis (headjam rest) nor the finals in the previous week. Just a bit more stamina plod into much harder finish. A bit more trickiness mid-way would have been a bit more exciting - albeit the harder finishes were gripping. Still, the actual competing between the athletes was very good.

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#108 Re: IFSC 2018
July 28, 2018, 10:09:31 pm
Forgot about Briancon but it was good. Oh yeah. Janja and Jessi.

Arco: W great despite lack of tops, interesting moves, perhaps a bit sketchy early on. I have a new crush on american Claire. Big lass. M disappointing, would have liked to have seen more action in the underhang roof. Ondra looked quite sketchy after looking very fluid (until one mistake) in the semis.

Stream quality was wank for the mens and Boscoe's commentary is getting more and more banal.

Duma

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#109 Re: IFSC 2018
August 11, 2018, 03:58:06 pm
Hannah Slaney just won the world junior bouldering: http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/calendar-mobile#!comp=7188&cat=81&route=3
 :bow: :strongbench: :clap2:

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#110 Re: IFSC 2018
August 19, 2018, 10:41:55 am
Great vibes at Munich although a strange set of bloques. Women's almost entirely burl on slopers and sometimes a bit easy. Men's almost entirely weirdo knackiness and 1 too hard and 4 too easy. 2 and 3 exciting tho. It looked like if they'd taken an average of the difficulty and style and averaged it out, it would have been amazing. Still some great moments tho but not as captivating climbing as some rounds.

Footage and stream quality perfect.

Boscoe managed to say one profound and interesting thing in the 3 hours.

Durbs

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#111 Re: IFSC 2018
August 23, 2018, 11:10:28 am
Caught up on Munich - overall good stuff as always.

Women's - Boscoe got it right (?!) saying it's tough for the setters when the bottom two got one top between them, and then top 3 topped all 4, Janja flashing them all.

Men's - More attempts, so more interesting comp, but the problems all seemed quite similar?

I feel for Charlie, it's easy to criticise, but he'd already commentated the semis, then 4 hours or time to fill is quite an ask. Another issue with the non-synchronous format - that and it takes 4 hours to watch the thing!


Miho getting overall is fantastic, and really pleased to see Fanny third overall too, she's looked great all season. Likewise Jernej getting overall is wicked, the men's was pretty wide open.

2019 should be interesting assuming Janja and Shauna (and Pooch?) do the full season, but the Olympics are starting to loom so we shall see.

teestub

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#112 Re: IFSC 2018
August 23, 2018, 11:41:41 am
I'm impressed that people watch the entire finals stream, I just skip through the feed until I get to the successful attempts of the top competitors. With all the flashes in the Women's final this meant it only took 20 mins to watch.

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#113 Re: IFSC 2018
August 23, 2018, 11:47:31 am
It's all good fun. I really like watching them.

Durbs fair point about the Boscoe.

Durbs

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#114 Re: IFSC 2018
August 23, 2018, 11:58:13 am
Don't get me wrong, I'm not his biggest fan, but I'm a motor mouth and I'd struggle to talk for 8 hours and keep it interesting/coherent!

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#115 Re: IFSC 2018
August 23, 2018, 12:04:54 pm
Enjoyed the comp and the streams are getting a lot better. The commentary could improve though. I don't find Boscoe unbearable but don't think having to talk for a long time is really an excuse for poor commentary when it's your job. Cricket commentators do a pretty good job and that lasts even longer. The other guy was dreadful.

jakk

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#116 Re: IFSC 2018
August 23, 2018, 03:24:16 pm
Boscoe has been improving over time but he still works best with a knowledgeable (pro who didn't make the finals) co-host who can talk about comp from a climber's perspective. Having a second of him who's basically a few years of comp commentating behind adds nothing as frankly, I don't need to know that a non professional climber can't start the problem, I want to know how a semi finalist would approach it.

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#117 Re: IFSC 2018
August 23, 2018, 07:39:21 pm
I do hope they change back the separation of male and female competitors.
I loved watching the livestream for years, now I rather watch the replay on my I-tablet and skip the dead time in between attempts.
Also there seemed to be a lot of dead time in between boulders this last comp (I was skipping a lot)

GraemeA

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#118 Re: IFSC 2018
August 27, 2018, 01:34:43 pm
Cricket commentators do a pretty good job and that lasts even longer.

Yes but cricket commentators rotate very regularly. TMS rotates their team at least once an hour.


GraemeA

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#119 Re: IFSC 2018
August 27, 2018, 01:36:38 pm
The are streaming everything for the Worlds next month, all the quals.   :great: Charlie will be doing something like 4 9 hour days on the trot for the quals!

GraemeA

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#120 Re: IFSC 2018
September 07, 2018, 03:10:59 pm
The World's started yesterday with women's lead quals, Molly T-S is through to the semis.

Will Bosi is currently in 10th in his group, he needs top 13 to qualify. Looking good.

jwi

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#121 Re: IFSC 2018
September 07, 2018, 03:49:12 pm
(Could you tell Charlie that the final operation when calculating the geometric mean of two numbers (as you do to get the score for the qualification) is called the square root (or colloquially the root), not the square.)


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#122 Re: IFSC 2018
September 07, 2018, 04:28:32 pm
(Could you tell Charlie that the final operation when calculating the geometric mean of two numbers (as you do to get the score for the qualification) is called the square root (or colloquially the root), not the square.)

That’s even worse than mixing up screw-ons and bolt-ons.

finbarrr

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#123 Re: IFSC 2018
September 08, 2018, 10:33:57 pm
my thoughts on the women's final. total spoiler alert:

NSFW  :
well, time deciding the lead climbing event is certainly a downer.
awkward waiting for the judges to replay and watch the clock...
janja losing after being the only one to top all her routes..
and then there is the belaying on jessie pilz' last moves:
https://youtu.be/LRb6BcfczQs?t=55m28s

galpinos

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#124 Re: IFSC 2018
September 09, 2018, 07:18:47 am
The men’s qualifiers controversy hasn’t helped either.