IFSC 2018 (Read 70255 times)

Doug · January 22, 2018, 06:37:45 pm

2018 IFSC Bouldering World Cup provisional calendar:

Day	Date	Venue	Country
Friday	14 Apr 2018	Meiringen	Switzerland
Saturday	22 Apr 2018	Moscow	Russia
Saturday	06 May 2018	Chongqing	China
Saturday	13 May 2018	Tai'an	China
Saturday	03 Jun 2018	Hachioji, Tokyo	Japan
Friday	09 Jun 2018	Vail	USA! USA! USA!
Friday	18 Aug 2018	Munich	Germany

In addition there's:

Day	Date	Event	Venue	Country
Saturday	11 Mar 2018	CWIF	Sheffield	UK
Saturday	11 Mar 2018	Asia Cup	Hong Kong	Hong Kong
Saturday	18 Mar 2018	Studio Bloc Masters 202018	Pfungstadt	Germany
Saturday	08 Apr 2018	FISE World Series	Hiroshima	Japan
Saturday	20 May 2018	Rock Ljubljana 202018	Ljubljana	Slovenia
Saturday	16 Sep 2018	IFSC World Championships	Innsbruck	Austria
Friday	22 Sep 2018	Adidas Rockstars	Stuttgart	Germany

Will Shauna recover from another finger injury to match Sandrine Levet and Anna Stöhr's achievements by being bouldering WC champion for three consecutive years?

Will Jongchon Chon hold on to his crown?

What young guns will break on to the scene, and will everyone enter in to more lead comps as Olympic training?

Place your bets.

bigironhorse · March 12, 2018, 07:00:50 am

What is all this "zone" bollocks? What was wrong with "bonus"?

Durbs · March 12, 2018, 09:24:36 am

Also zone/bonus total is worth more than top attempts.
Which I can kind of understand; Climnber A with 3T 4B beats Climber B with 3T 3B even though B flashed all theirs where A seiged.
Makes the bonus/zone worth more - though will need some more thoughtful route-setting, as often the bonus and the top get done together.

Still want 4+ back though...

Durbs · March 12, 2018, 09:32:30 am

Quote from: Doug on January 22, 2018, 06:37:45 pm

2018 IFSC Bouldering World Cup provisional calendar:
Day Date Venue Country
Friday 14 Apr 2018 Meiringen Switzerland
Saturday 22 Apr 2018 Moscow Russia
Saturday 06 May 2018 Chongqing China
Saturday 13 May 2018 Tai'an China
Saturday 03 Jun 2018 Hachioji, Tokyo Japan
Friday 09 Jun 2018 Vail USA! USA! USA!
Friday 18 Aug 2018 Munich Germany

In addition there's:
Day Date Event Venue Country
Saturday 11 Mar 2018 CWIF Sheffield UK
Saturday 11 Mar 2018 Asia Cup Hong Kong Hong Kong
Saturday 18 Mar 2018 Studio Bloc Masters 202018 Pfungstadt Germany
Saturday 08 Apr 2018 FISE World Series Hiroshima Japan
Saturday 20 May 2018 Rock Ljubljana 202018 Ljubljana Slovenia
Saturday 16 Sep 2018 IFSC World Championships Innsbruck Austria
Friday 22 Sep 2018 Adidas Rockstars Stuttgart Germany

Yours Days/Dates are all out by one

bigironhorse · March 12, 2018, 08:28:16 pm

Quote from: Durbs on March 12, 2018, 09:24:36 am

Also zone/bonus total is worth more than top attempts.
Which I can kind of understand; Climnber A with 3T 4B beats Climber B with 3T 3B even though B flashed all theirs where A seiged.
Makes the bonus/zone worth more - though will need some more thoughtful route-setting, as often the bonus and the top get done together.

Still want 4+ back though...

Will be interesting to see how this turns out. I've often felt like bonuses should come before attempts on tops.

Agree on the 4+

Fiend · March 12, 2018, 09:51:37 pm

Agree on agreeing on the 4+

Still hyped for some serious competition viewing over gin / coffee depending when.

Durbs · March 23, 2018, 11:49:42 am

Quote from: bigironhorse on March 12, 2018, 07:00:50 am

What is all this "zone" bollocks? What was wrong with "bonus"?

Thinking about it, it's actually more accurate... As "bonus" tends to imply something extra, which is worth more, so they got the top "and the bonus" sounds better than just getting the top - which it technically was, but 90% of the time you had to get the bonus to get the top so for new viewers *cough Olympic viewers* it makes more sense.

Not sure why "zone" though... Think it's always been called this in the American comps?

Durbs · March 28, 2018, 09:24:25 am

Meiringen Starter List up (though not finalised yet).

http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition/calendar#!type=starters&comp=7128

Great to see Pooch entering.
Megos and Jan which is cool. No Rustam though.

A stronger/larger US team than normal? Olympics momentum building do you think?

Coops_13 · March 28, 2018, 10:27:30 am

Quote from: Durbs on March 28, 2018, 09:24:25 am

Meiringen Starter List up (though not finalised yet).

http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition/calendar#!type=starters&comp=7128

Great to see Pooch entering.
Megos and Jan which is cool. No Rustam though.

A stronger/larger US team than normal? Olympics momentum building do you think?

Have we got a large British contingent planned for this year's world cups do you know?

Durbs · March 28, 2018, 05:17:30 pm

Not a clue...

Durbs · April 04, 2018, 04:59:30 pm

UK squad now submitted:

Women:
COXSEY Shauna
CRANE Leah
SLANEY Hannah (Who crushed at Studio Bloc Masters)
PHILLIPS Emily
WOOD Jennifer
TOOTHILL Holly

Men:
COUSINS Matthew
ROBERTS Aidan
PHILLIPS Nathan
BARRANS David
LANDMAN Tyler

AYRTON Max

No Anna Stoher though - think she mentioned retiring last year from the full circuit?

fatneck · April 10, 2018, 02:21:13 pm

Psyched!!

jwi · April 13, 2018, 03:11:21 pm

What happened in the mens qualifier? 17 athletes topped all boulders in the first group, while 2 tops and 4 zones was enough to qualify from the second. Weird.

Duma · April 14, 2018, 11:55:02 am

Yeah looked a bit unbalanced.

Anyone else stuck at work watching semis or are you all out in the sunshine?

Duma · April 14, 2018, 12:13:39 pm

Jessica Pilz must be gutted!

joel182 · April 14, 2018, 11:27:01 pm

Thought the split format for the finals was rubbish. Three hours long, lots of glitches on the stream, still a bunch of camera blunders, and it really drags out the boulders on which the climbers aren't making much progress.

bigironhorse · April 15, 2018, 11:20:46 am

Quote from: joel182 on April 14, 2018, 11:27:01 pm

Thought the split format for the finals was rubbish. Three hours long, lots of glitches on the stream, still a bunch of camera blunders, and it really drags out the boulders on which the climbers aren't making much progress.

Agree on the split format, much better to have them side by side and split screen when necessary. Thought it was a great comp overall, maybe the finals was a bit too easy for the women but the mens comp was spot on.

bigironhorse · April 15, 2018, 11:24:38 am

Quote from: jwi on April 13, 2018, 03:11:21 pm

What happened in the mens qualifier? 17 athletes topped all boulders in the first group, while 2 tops and 4 zones was enough to qualify from the second. Weird.

Yeah this is weird. Do they climb the same problems in two different sessions? Could a massive difference in conditions cause the disparity? Or do they climb approximate replicas of each problem in one big session? Also how are they split in to groups? Must be by previous results I guess to have an even spread of climbers in each group.

Duma · April 15, 2018, 01:53:30 pm

they climb different problems

groups are split by ranking, odd and even I think

GraemeA · April 16, 2018, 12:41:12 pm

Split is done from the World Ranking, which is based on events (World Cups + World Champs) from the last 365 days.

Group 1 = 1, 4, 5, 8, 9, 12, 13, 16, 17 etc

Group 2 = 2, 3, 6, 7, 10, 11, 14, 15 etc

Where possible the groups climb on similar terrain eg in Meiringen there was 1 slab for each group, 1 prow for each group, 1 40 degree for each group.

Danny · April 16, 2018, 09:03:46 pm

I think the non-split screen format is better. IIRC, a few folk weren't happy when it was split screen.
I don't like too much in the way of jumping all over the place style problems, but M3 did provide some cracking moments. Overall: great start to the season. Good work all involved.

r-man · April 16, 2018, 09:38:25 pm

When the screen was split into 4 boxes for the qualis it was hard to watch - I think that was the main complaint.

A screen split into two halves is fine. Climbing is vertical and thin, it suits split screen perfectly.

Danny · April 16, 2018, 11:02:08 pm

Misremembered on my part perhaps. I do prefer one at a time though.

jwi · April 17, 2018, 08:05:04 am

I much prefer one climber at the time.

Durbs · April 17, 2018, 09:20:27 am

I'm torn - I preferred being able to focus on one route; both in term of camerawork but also commentary.

However 3.5 - 4 hours is a lot to watch, even skipping the intro and observations (there was barely any gap between the men and women's comp), not just for the stream but for the audience too?

Wicked to see Jernej get a gold - well deserved, and also great seeing Jakob smash M4. Manu - hah! What a show, but got to be tough for him, Chon didn't seem to be firing on all cylinders.

Women's was a bit too easy, they still got separation, but lacked a little bit of drama. Commentary said it was set slightly soft to make a good show, which seems risky. It must be hard enough getting them hard-but-not-too-hard, to then make them slightly soft was always going to be risky.
All women except Shauna looked on fire, and getting into the finals when you're way off form is still some achievement. I still think Janja isn't quite at the dominating level, Miho and Fanny looked great. Shame Janja isn't doing the full season, and nor Shauna (is anyone?).

Overall, thought the production was great, though suspect some of this was down to the venue.
Why can't clocks work properly?

Oh, and there was lots of tutting from me at the photographer getting up in Akiyo's face on the slab...